.25 Trigger Job (hints & tips?)

[surfdog]

So...... my stock G34 is now over the 600 round mark.

Just ordered some TruGrip and I want to treat her to a $.25 cent trigger job + 3.5# connector.

I've got the link to the $.25 Trigger Job, but being a Total Newbie, I'm wondering things like:

- what's the difficulty level? (on a scale of 1-5, with 5 being most complicated & difficult)

- approx. time to schedule for the project? Do you complete it in one sitting... or does it really matter?

- Best way to approach the project? (e.g., can springs, etc. pop out unexpectedly, etc.?)

I'm also wondering... Am I making too big a deal of this? Is it easy, so just dive in and 'git 'er done'?

TIA!

[Mattog22]

pretty easy, just follow the directions. I used a dremel tool with the felt buffer and the polishing compound. Worked great. I tried one on a buffing wheel and it works well also, just make sure you don't get it caught in the wheel. I couldn't tell much difference with the connectors other than the 3.5 breaks at an earlier point in the trigger pull. The polished trigger was noticeably better.

[Micah]

Take your time to do it right. The .25 trigger job will improve the feel of the trigger, as well as provide you with the opportunity to get to know the inner workings of your Glock. Be sure to take extra care when disassembling your striker assembly...those spring cups can shoot off never to be found again.

[Micah]

Oh, and it can easily be done in one sitting.

[Jman]

Putting you G34 under a pyramid made of chop sticks and Q-Tip trigger jobs have the same result. Zip.

A Dremel and felt polishing tips are a must.

THE BEST nuts and bolts description with pics of the whole process is found here.

"The Complete Glock Reference Guide." Lone Wolf Distributors and most Sportsman's

Warehouses sell it. The reference material, how to, maintenance and detail

disassembly/re-assembly chapters of the book are great. They waist a lot

of ink with a goofy torture test section. But it's the only negative IMO.

Tip. Clean the trigger group before polishing with alcohol. Again after you polish and before lubrication.

Jim

Edited February 5, 2009 by JimmyM

[Graham Smith]

The G34 and G35 ship with the 3.5# connector. Although they recently started calling it the 4# connector (I think), it's still the same thing you would be buying as an aftermarket connector.

One of the best ways to reduce the trigger pull and smooth out the action is to load a snap cap and do a lot of dry firing.

[Duane Thomas]

Although they recently started calling it the 4# connector (I think), it's still the same thing you would be buying as an aftermarket connector.

It's actually called the 4.5 pound connector now. As for being "the same thing you would be buying as an aftermarket connector," I'll go for the quality of the factory part every time.

[Duane Thomas]

The easiest way to learn to do a trigger job on a Glock is to watch the excellent Making Glocks Rock DVD from the American Gunsmithing Institute:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...leitemid=186832

[steveyacht]

Like you I am new to Glocks, although I have been tinkering with guns for many years. In the past couple of weeks, I have done 4 of the 25 cent trigger jobs; G17, G17LS, G34 and a S&W Sigma. I must parrot the previous comments about using a Dremel or other power tool versus attempting to do it using Q-Tips. I prefer using Semichrome or Maas as the polishing agent, versus Flitz, just a personal preference gained frompolishing English Motorcycle cases.

I took the guns down to dust and polished every metal part I could get my fingers on. In addition, I changed the striker spring to a 4# unit, 5# trigger spring, and I used a Wolf Lone Wolf 3.5# connector (after polishing, of course). After cleaning, reassembly took place using our host's Slide Glide (heavy) and a sparing amount of Rem Oil in the right places. Take care not to lube the ejector or striker.

Now, with the exception of the Sigma (that is another story) we all have triggers that break consistantly from 3.20 to 3.35#s. Now, they are not as crisp as a S&W in single action or a good 1911, but they are a heck of a lot better than what they were!

Overall, I found them very simple and easy to work on, only needing a couple of punches, brass or phenolic hammer and a small screwdriver. I followed the directions, photos and schematics on Glockmeister's web site as well as encourage ment and help from other's on this website. Over all much easier thatn my 1911's and S&W's as far as trigger work is concerned.

Hope this helps,

Steve

[Precision40]

On a scale of 1 to 5 I'd say it's a 2. If you take your time it shouldn't take more than an hour or two.

I've found using a dremel to be useless IMHO. If you want to do it right you need access to a bench mounted buffer. I have an 8" buffing wheel that works miracles. As long as you take a little time and go gingerly you can't screw it up. Dremels simply do not smooth out surfaces, they just buff the surface without smooothing it out. I probably spend at least an hour polishing on the wheel.

One thing I also do is take the plunger safety and put it in a cordless drill (Poor mans lathe) then turn it on high and re-profile it on a 1" fine grit (400ish grit) belt-sander, then polish to mirror finish on the buffer (That saves about $35). I don't worry so much about the non-contact areas, but as long as you get a mirror finish on all the metal to metal surfaces you'll definitely notice a better trigger.

If you want to go one step further, you can raise the trigger spring hole just a little and install an extra-power trigger spring and install some maritime spring cups for reduced friction. I can get a 100% reliable 2# pull doing this method. But it's NOT a duty or carry trigger.

Edited February 9, 2009 by Precision40

[steveyacht]

On a scale of 1 to 5 I'd say it's a 2. If you take your time it shouldn't take more than an hour or two.

I've found using a dremel to be useless IMHO. If you want to do it right you need access to a bench mounted buffer. I have an 8" buffing wheel that works miracles. As long as you take a little time and go gingerly you can't screw it up. Dremels simply do not smooth out surfaces, they simply polish the rough surfaces. I probably spend at least an hour polishing on the wheel.

One thing I also do is take the plunger safety and put it in a cordless drill (Poor mans lathe) then turn it on high and re-profile it on a 1" fine grit (400ish grit) belt-sander, then polish to mirror finish on the buffer (That saves about $30 alone). I don't worry so much about the non-contact areas, but as long as you get a mirror finish on all the metal to metal surfaces you'll definitely notice a better trigger.

If you want to go one step further, you can raise the trigger spring hole just a little and install an extra-power trigger spring and install some maritime spring cups for reduced friction. I can get a 100% reliable 2# pull doing this method. But it's NOT a duty or carry trigger.

In what way do you re-profile the Plunger safety?

Thanks,

Steve

[Precision40]

Ever seen the Plunger that Vanek sells? Same thing, the head is rounded off