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40 Open


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4 hours ago, jbecker said:

What do you think, can you build a open glock 22 (40 s&w) with a carver mount that will run reliablely  and you wouldn't feel like you wasted your money on the build? It looks like it would be a 1000 to 1500 for a complete open glock set up build youself including the cost of the gun. Anybody have experience with this type of set up?

The key to that build is you can separate the parts, reassemble the stock gun and list the parts for sale.  Not really “wasting” any money.  Find a G22 trade in for $300 and your buy in is less.

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1 hour ago, Gooldylocks said:
2 hours ago, CamboSoup22 said:
 
 
I haven’t tried it but I was thinking about it being easier to set up and run efficiently in 40. Not that it couldn’t be done in a 9 version. Plenty of people have. But in my experience it took quite a bit of work. Different issues arose for me and my buddy on 9. The glock mag limits you on oal so I was always worried about doing it on 9. Not a lot of margin for error. I was about to venture into making a open 40 glock but came across a good deal on a 2011 in 40. Shooting that 2011 really wanted me to explore more in an open 40 glock but I never got around to it. All I would need is a compensator for it and I may revisit. I know in my 2011 I have some rounds that produce a lot of gas and the slide manipulate fairly slowly. I would think that it would be a great load in the glock so you can run lighter recoil springs. 

You can't run lighter than an 11 pound recoil spring in a glock without encountering a host of issues around not reseting the striker and stuff. A 19/2011 allows you to run springs down to like 6#, since the recoil spring doesn't have an effect on cocking the gun. If your 2011 is cycling slowly, go down a spring weight and test.

Understood. I just forgot to mention that I had to go up in spring weight to get my glock to run reliably and I was not a fan of the feel. As for the 2011. I couldn’t get the accuracy out of that particular load that I was getting with other loads. I didn’t dabble long with it. Just wanted to mention that I believe the potential is there and it should be worth exploring. Every setup is different. It’s just a matter of how much time you want to spend testing. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2017-11-26 at 6:36 PM, HotrodMachinegun said:

I ran about 50 rounds of hs6 and 135gr through it this morning and I just wasn't getting a very good or consistent burn with such a slow powder. Maybe I would have better luck with WSF but I threw a lb of power pistol on my last powder order and I'll wait until I can try a few of each side by side.

I'm going to try some 180s with hs6 next and see where that takes me.

I'm not really concerned with the cost of 180s vs 135s but I already use hs6 in another gun and I use 180s in my limited load. I do like the idea of being able to use components I already have.

The original owner had a large collection of competition guns that never really saw any use. I don't think he was a reloader and I wouldn't be the least bit suprised if it was never fired at all. The recoil spring still has the colored paint on it indicating weight.

I had the same issue with HS6, that’s why I went to Univeral.  It seems ok so far and I’m getting kinda lazy to try different powder 

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Well I too have finally come over to th edark side. Here is my experiment into Open, a 4.5 .40 XDm, 3 port comp, Trijicon Red Dot and a Neumont mount. Took it to the range, shot 135 gr Rainiers over 8 Grs of Silhoutte and it was a ball. Tried 8.2 and 8.4, all of which shot so flat I never lost the dot. This  is gonna be nothng but fun....

 

 

.40 open XDm.JPG

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  • 2 months later...
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Anyone with a 2011 based 40cal open gun want to give input on what comp to use? I only shoot and reload 40 and have toyed around with the idea of building a 40cal open gun. Also what optic mounts are you using so that you have no case extraction issues?

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What comp you use will be determined by the number of poppels you plan to put in the barrel.  The more barrel ports, the less effective the comp will be unless you up the powder charge to compensate.  I run a C-More Slideride on one of my Open 40s and a Leupold DPP 2.5 on another.  I still can't decide which I like better.  I run vertical frame mounts on both.  You don't have the same ejection problems you have in 9mm Open.  The 40 case is straight walled and it is easy to tune the ejector to throw the brass out and down.

 

My current philosophy on comps/poppels is this.  Try using the comp only.  It should have at least 3 chamber, but can have more ports.  When you develop a load that has all the gas exiting the comp ports and very little out the front, you are perfect.  That will be your softest shooting load.  It will be up to you to determine whether it shoots flat enough for you.  If it doesn't, the only remedy is to add barrel ports.  These bleed off high pressure gas and definitely make the gun shoot flatter, but at the expense on additional noise and a harder hit to your hand.  Even with poppels, getting the gun to shoot flat with a 40 will require going up to around 185PF.  That makes the gun extremely loud, violent, and unpleasant to shoot.  Been there; tried that.  It is much better to work on your grip strength and consistency, than to go for dead flat.  As long as the dot comes right back down where it belongs, you don't need flat.  If you decide later on that you want barrel ports, they are easy to put in.

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21 minutes ago, zzt said:

What comp you use will be determined by the number of poppels you plan to put in the barrel.  The more barrel ports, the less effective the comp will be unless you up the powder charge to compensate.  I run a C-More Slideride on one of my Open 40s and a Leupold DPP 2.5 on another.  I still can't decide which I like better.  I run vertical frame mounts on both.  You don't have the same ejection problems you have in 9mm Open.  The 40 case is straight walled and it is easy to tune the ejector to throw the brass out and down.

 

My current philosophy on comps/poppels is this.  Try using the comp only.  It should have at least 3 chamber, but can have more ports.  When you develop a load that has all the gas exiting the comp ports and very little out the front, you are perfect.  That will be your softest shooting load.  It will be up to you to determine whether it shoots flat enough for you.  If it doesn't, the only remedy is to add barrel ports.  These bleed off high pressure gas and definitely make the gun shoot flatter, but at the expense on additional noise and a harder hit to your hand.  Even with poppels, getting the gun to shoot flat with a 40 will require going up to around 185PF.  That makes the gun extremely loud, violent, and unpleasant to shoot.  Been there; tried that.  It is much better to work on your grip strength and consistency, than to go for dead flat.  As long as the dot comes right back down where it belongs, you don't need flat.  If you decide later on that you want barrel ports, they are easy to put in.

Wow that is a well of knowledge to take in. Since you have Figured most of this stuff out what powders and bullet weight worked best in you load development? I currently use 165gr for all my major power factor loads for single stack and limited. Been looking at buying some 140gr and 155gr to test for minor power factor loads for steel matches my conservation club hosts twice a month.

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22 hours ago, bjones6686 said:

Wow that is a well of knowledge to take in. Since you have Figured most of this stuff out what powders and bullet weight worked best in you load development? I currently use 165gr for all my major power factor loads for single stack and limited. Been looking at buying some 140gr and 155gr to test for minor power factor loads for steel matches my conservation club hosts twice a month.

 

When I shot Limited I started out with 180s and then went with 165s to speed up the action.  180s and 165 are way too heavy for Open major.  You want a lot of powder to generate gas to 'work' the comp.  That means lighter bullets.  I developed loads for 135s through 180s, and quickly dismissed everything but 135 and 155.  Best powders were WAC, Silhouette and HS-6.  The 135s shot a tiny bit flatter, because they use 1gr more powder per load.  They were louder and hit the hand harder.  So I stuck with the 155s.  7.2gr Silhouette or WAC gives me 172PF in the poppeled gun and 175PF in the gun without.  8.2gr of HS-6 does the same.  Of the three powders, I use Silhouette because it is cleaner.

 

My favorite bullets are Rainier 155 plated, Montana Gold 155gr JHP and X-Treme 155 plated (in that order).  Lead and poly coated bullets lead the comp and it's a bear to get out.  

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2 hours ago, zzt said:

My favorite bullets are Rainier 155 plated, Montana Gold 155gr JHP and X-Treme 155 plated (in that order).  Lead and poly coated bullets lead the comp and it's a bear to get out

zzt, I'm currently using Acme 155 gr coated in my 40 Open. If I'm careful in my loading technique I don't damage the coating and have experienced no comp or barrel leading. The two powders I like for this load are 7.2gr Pistol CFE and 9.5 gr AA #7. I do like VV N320 but find it hard to make major without the gun being violent in my hand. Love shooting 40 Open.

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1 hour ago, 191138sc said:

zzt, I'm currently using Acme 155 gr coated in my 40 Open. If I'm careful in my loading technique I don't damage the coating and have experienced no comp or barrel leading. The two powders I like for this load are 7.2gr Pistol CFE and 9.5 gr AA #7. I do like VV N320 but find it hard to make major without the gun being violent in my hand. Love shooting 40 Open.

Glad to see your using coated bullets with great success. Thats all I run and am about to place a order with Acme for 140gr and 155gr bullets to play around with making a steel challenge load. Acme seemed like the best place to buy from with the discount codes I found online.

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Acme uses the Australian Hi-Tek bullet coating that so many others do.  I works better in comps that the other coating, but still leads mine.  Maybe the coating is torn by the sharp edges of the poppels as the bullet passes.  Not sure, but it's plated or JHPs for me.  I HATE cleaning lead out of comps.

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On 5/16/2018 at 8:20 AM, bjones6686 said:

Anyone with a 2011 based 40cal open gun want to give input on what comp to use? I only shoot and reload 40 and have toyed around with the idea of building a 40cal open gun. Also what optic mounts are you using so that you have no case extraction issues?

I'm running Bedell on both of mine with the two of the front side ports machined off.  Very flat shooting with 135gr and 8.5gr of Silhouette. 

Edited by NMinzghor
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If anyone has pics of their STI based gun please post. 
Lookimg to get one built and need suggestions on comps and/or ported island barrels, Love that JPL. 

Here is my STI DVC Open31a6ccbae85d76f9f3b1e4483df18d71.jpg


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Two of the Open shooters I shoot with use 40sw.  One has a Glock 22 that he built himself the other

has a Limcat.  Both run fine and the only problem is round count in the mags, but it's not a major problem.

The Limcat shooter said Johnny Lim thought he was kidding when he ordered the gun.  No problem finding

brass, etc. 

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