Lee Loadmaster tricks and tips

[Resjudicata]

I looked and we don't have a tips and tricks section like the Dillon folks. Therefore, I am starting one. Let's keep the tips and tricks for other loaders in their own threads. This one is just for the Lee Loadmaster.

I'll start off by posting the links to the Shadowdog500's posts on Youtube. These are great video's. This guy (whoever he is) took a lot of time to make these videos and I think they (along with the factory instructions) are all you need to get the Loadmaster ready to run.

Bullet feed setup:

Case feeder setup:

Case feeder demo and theory of operation:

Primer setup (three parts):

Primer depth:

How the primer punch works:

How the primer system works:

Loadmaster lubrication:

9mm case collator mod:

Ejector mod:

I have some of my own tips and tricks that I'll post when I get the pics to use too. But, for now this is a start.

Chris

[Tom S.]

Good idea and lots of good links!

[Thomas Moore]

you mean there's another loader besides dillon? sorry couldn't resist.

[Bronson7]

you mean there's another loader besides dillon? sorry couldn't resist.

Ok, here's one: The spent primer removal system on the LM is a pita (to me anyway) so I removed the little door and all it's attaching parts, including the spring/friction washer. The opening is now considerably larger and spent primers will easily flow out. I just stuff a small piece of rag in the hole and after each session or two I remove it. The primers easily fall out.

Bronson7

[Graham Smith]

The spent primer removal system on the LM is a pita (to me anyway) so I removed the little door and all it's attaching parts, including the spring/friction washer. The opening is now considerably larger and spent primers will easily flow out. I just stuff a small piece of rag in the hole and after each session or two I remove it. The primers easily fall out.

Rather than a rag... Put a cup hook in the bottom of the work table and hang a small pail under the ram.

[Bronson7]

The spent primer removal system on the LM is a pita (to me anyway) so I removed the little door and all it's attaching parts, including the spring/friction washer. The opening is now considerably larger and spent primers will easily flow out. I just stuff a small piece of rag in the hole and after each session or two I remove it. The primers easily fall out.

Rather than a rag... Put a cup hook in the bottom of the work table and hang a small pail under the ram.

I like that, Graham. Good idea.

Bronson7

[WyrTwister]

I check the tightness of the shell plate knurl nut and the knurled screw holding the turret , every 25 - 50 rounds . Gave up on finger tight and went to using a pair of pliers . :-(

Tap the primer tray every 2 - 4 rounds . Visually check the amount of primers left .

If having problems , adjust the carrier plate .

Lube the things that are suppose to be lubed & keep the lube off the parts that are not susppose to be lubed .

Check / sort for military / crimped primer pockets . For calibers that this applies to , check / sort for " non-standard " primers .

If something looks wrong , STOP and investigate . If something sounds wrong , STOP and investigate . If something takes more force than " normal " , STOP and investigate .

On Lee dies , if you see the de-priming rod pushed up , STOP and investigate .

If you are like me and just throw the empty brass up into the red plastic collator as you sort the brass , watch to see if any brass head down the clear plastic tubes upside down .

Watch for smaller caliber brass " nested " inside a larger size brass . Watch for any other foreign objects in the empty brass .

Try to keep everything as clean as you can . Especially powder powder spills .

Do not screw the dies too far into the turret . Let the ram bottom out on its own stops , not against the bottom of the dies .

When you swing a case retainer out , to allow you to remove and inspect a case , the opposite end of the case retainer swings in . If over done , the opposite end of the case retainer can lock down the shell plate .

God bless ,

Wyr

[Robphillips00]

I have had about the same experiences as twister, when I had a lee press.

[fcernese]

^{The LED light by www.InLineFrabrication.com is perfect for lighting up the shells so you can see the powder power the pullet is seated.}

^{I also much prefer there loader handle.}

[andrewst359]

Or better yet... save the anguish and buy a dillon 550. I've went thru the loadmaster boat anchor frustration and don't miss it.

[stick]

Let me start off by saying I've loaded on a Turret press for years, I got tired of 4 pulls to make one bullet (took forever).Im getting BLUE (pardon the pun) Just sent my loadmaster back to LEE. Had it since December and it still wont prime right. out of 10 cases, 3 are good, 3 are missing primers, 2 are upside down and 2 are sideways. I've been on the phone with Lee more times than I can count. I've been to the loadmaster site and the damn thing still wont work right. I'm just tired of wasting components that are very hard to come by these days. I have an order in for an XL650 which I will use my Lee dies in. I will also keep my turret press, but that loadmaster has got to go.

[mlkary]

These are issues I have noticed with the Loadmaster that need to be addressed either initially or constantly.

1) Alignment of the Carrier to the Turret: Make sure during the initial setup that the carrier is adjusted to the left to square the indexer rod against the right side of the carrier and the flipper is attached in the correct position on the indexer rod with the bevel on the rod facing to the right. The flipper needs to be against the pullout ribs on the frame. The bolt to loosen the carrier is on the very bottom of the ram and use a 7/16 wrench. Remove the shell plate while doing this and it will become very clear. This is what sets the timing for the machine. All other adjustments revolve around this being done correctly. The procedure is on the top of page 7 in the book(at the back of the book???). My machine came shipped completely out of adjustment. This is usually a one time adjustment. Install the shell plate and tighten only enough that makes a whole cycle of the lever even and consistent. If the lever is hard when pushing the the indexer rod back in then the shell plate is too tight. Loosen the knurled knob. The knob actually has very little tension on it. If it takes too much force to push the indexer rod back in you will abruptly shake the unit and cause powder to spill from the shell casing as it goes from station 3 to station 4.

2) The case feeder. The basic set up in the book is o.k. and there are online demo's that are better than I can describe. However, I had a strange chatter when the crank slider was at the top of the feed rod. That ended up being a fine adjustment to the position between the feed rod and the slider. I actually had to twist the feed rod towards the front of the machine to eliminate the chatter. I did this with a crescent wrench on the feed rod while I cycle the press and twisted on the feed rod until the noise disappeared.

3) The knurled knob on the top of the shell plate needs to be tightened about every 25-50 rounds. If the knob loosens it will cause the shell plate to have excessive up and down play. This will affect your OAL. I use a crimp in station 5. When the shell plate gets loose I hear a "pop" noise when I move the carrier from the full top position to the bottom position. This pop is the excessive movement in the shell plate when the bullet is being removed from the crimp die. I marked my knurled knob with some finger nail polish so I can tell when in is loosening.

4) Primer feed and seating: I have the newer primer feed set up for the small pistol primers. You MUST keep an additional 10-15 primers in the priming system. If you are going to load 100 rounds then put 110-120 primers in the tray. The priming system needs the additional primers for weight or it will not feed properly. I just leave them in there when I am done and add 100 primers on the next loading session. Be sure to adjust your primer depth correctly so the primers are completely flush with the bottom of the case. If the primer is seated high or is above the case you can not measure the over all length of the bullet correctly (OAL). The quickest way to check if the primer is high is to put the bullet on a flat surface with the primer down and see if the bullet is stable or if it wobbles.

5) Lighting: I like things simple: Went to Harbor Freight and bought an LED battery operated light (93549 on sale $4.99). The light is angled at 45° and has a magnet on it. Took a piece of flat stock 18"X 3/4" x 1/8" and bent it 90° 2" from the end. Drilled a 1/8" hole in the 2" end for a mounting screw. Mounted it 6 1/2 " to the left side of my press. Put the light on the tall part and can slide the light up and down the flat stock to get the lighting exactly where I want it. I can see both the primer tube and the powder level perfect. This is by far the best lighting arrangement I have encountered

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a502/mlkary/LoadmasterLEDLightPole_zps2325aec6.jpg

6) Mounting the press: If you are new to reloading the best advice I can give is mount the press on an extremely solid platform that does not move or shake. If you do not, your loading experience with most any machine will be very frustrating even if the machine is tuned properly. I made a very nice portable table for my set up. I encountered many problems with the movement of the table. Ended up screwing it to the wall and all my loading sessions became 100% more productive.

7) Wooden Lever Knob: Get rid if it !!! I ordered a pool cue ball from Pooldawg.com. for $8 shipped. Used a speedbor bit, drilled a 9/16" hole about 5/8" deep and then had to woller it out with a dremel tool to fit that odd size taper on the handle. Glued it on with some JB Weld. Now that makes for a great handle.

8) Noise: I think machinery should run with a rhythm. I eliminated a rather irritating noise on my Loadmaster when the Lever pushes the Flipper indexer in to the shell plate. It made a loud metallic kind of bang noise on the down stroke when the Lever pushes on the Flipper indexer. I took a thick self adhesive felt pad 3/4" in diameter and cut it in half. I placed on the Lever where it contacts the flipper arm. The loud noise is gone and my machine is much quieter and sounds happier.

9) Eliminate Primer Chain: I made a rod to replace the chain. I used 1/8 piano wire but I bet coat hanger wire would have been much easier to work with. I made a plate (from lighting stock above) that extended outward from the carrier and bolted where the chain went through with 6-32 machine screw and nut. I bought the stop and thumb screw from the hardware store. I put just enough tension on the spring to collapse it about a 1/16" - not very much as I do not want the leverage to break the carrier but just enough to pull the rod down. Put a little super glue or nail polish on the 6-32 threads as they do have a tendency to loosen.

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a502/mlkary/LoadmasterUpperChargingRodBend_zps5216b3bd.jpg

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a502/mlkary/LoadmasterLowerChargingRodAssy_zpsd1198a54.jpg

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a502/mlkary/LoadmasterChargingRod_zpsf586bd05.jpg

10) Turret: Be sure to tighten the turret lock sufficiently that it does not loosen during use. I use a pair of pliers and snug it up. If the turret lock comes loose the turret will move upward with every upstroke stroke of the ram. Primer seating and OAL will be greatly affected. Be sure to check the turret and turret lock frequently.

These are some of my experiences with the Loadmaster. I wanted to share these because others have shared some really fantastic experiences with the rest of us to make our loading experience better on the Loadmaster.

Mike K

Edited July 22, 2013 by mlkary

[Brassaholic13]

Or better yet... save the anguish and buy a dillon 550. I've went thru the loadmaster boat anchor frustration and don't miss it.

Been there, done that as well. Had the Loadmaster for about 2 weeks before I threw in the towel. It went back with a lot of profanity involved in the process.

[glynnm45]

I was a slow learner; I actually bought a second LLM before I completely gave up and went with a Dillon 650. Lee makes good presses, just not good progressive presses. I still have three Lee presses, ALL single stage Challenger Breech Lock presses.

[fmj3]

I bought a Load Master for .40 not too long ago, even after reading all the bad pub.

I had done enough reading to know most of the pitfalls and things to look for, so getting it up and running wasn't that bad. I did spend about a day going through it to make sure everything was working smoothly and to just get a better understanding of how it worked and all the bits on it - I was the kid that took the toaster apart to see how it worked ;-)

The priming, indexing and case feeder all set up easily and work flawlessly - better than expected (I haven't had a single missed/flipped primer yet???). I'm not a speed demon though, still takes me about 10 minutes to load 88 rounds (that's what the feeder tubes hold w/ .40). I could probably shave 2-4 minutes off that if I really needed to, but I like looking everything over as I go.

The one issue I had (and didn't even think about prior to getting a progressive) was inconsistent OAL. It took me a little while to do some research to iron that out. I was at +/- .010 initially and that was just too broad a range IMO. I changed around some dies and did some different adjustments to the dies and I'm now consistently getting +/- .002 which is good enough for my application (since I'm loading molys I'd guess half that variance is in the projectiles). Shell plate contact in stations 1, 2 & 4 (redding seater die in 4) was the key for me.

[gmich]

If its in here already I apologize. I have found the number one thing that allows me to reload for hours is to manually pull out the indexing arm rather than let it hit the nubbin that allows it to back itself out and reset. I found that it doesn’t slow me down at all and now I do not have to worry about if the index arm is fully extended or not, everything works like a charm. That and keep the primer tray clean. As long as you pull out the arm and watch for primer issues you are golden with the loadmaster, so much time saved and so little money spent for red rather than blue.

Edited December 5, 2013 by gmich

[fmj3]

If its in here already I apologize. I have found the number one thing that allows me to reload for hours is to manually pull out the indexing arm rather than let it hit the nubbin that allows it to back itself out and reset. I found that it doesn’t slow me down at all and now I do not have to worry about if the index arm is fully extended or not, everything works like a charm. That and keep the primer tray clean. As long as you pull out the arm and watch for primer issues you are golden with the loadmaster, so much time saved and so little money spent for red rather than blue.

Is the rib on your LM machined flat (the one that slides the indexing rod out)?

Sounds like it just needs an adjustment - either to the carrier alignment or by making an adjustment to the flipper on the index rod.

Mine was out of adjustment when I unboxed it, but a quick adjustment and it indexes perfectly 100% of the time now. After a thousand or so rounds everything started cycling very smoothly. One day I'll probably get a blue 650, but the LM has exceeded my expectations so far for a $200 press.

[BeerBaron]

Yeah I have to be honest I had heard bad things about the LM. Then I had an opportunity to buy one cheap as a mate got one in a 'job lot' it came with the bullet feeder too.

at first I had trouble with primers seating deep enough (easy fixed by adjusting the depth bolt).

Then I had problems with the bullet feeder. Easily fixed just by tightening up a few screws that I had left loose thinking they needed to be loose to let the plastic move freely.

The case feed has worked flawlessly. I get one upsidedown case in about 500 (just chucking handfuls in the top). and it's easy to spot plus it makes a different noise as it slides along the case ramp.

priming works great. I get the odd crushed primer (especially if using federals cause they are quite 'square' and don't self center very well). probably one in about 300 rounds. and that is still using the old style (white colour) small primer feed system (I have the new design one as a spare).

my tips are mostly the same.

tighten the shell plate nut every 30 rounds or so I just give it a tweak to keep it finger tight. and about every 50-100 rounds tighten the knob that holds the die plate/tool head.

I set up my press with a universal decapping die in station 1 so that station 2 has a sizing die (with deprimer removed). that holds the shell nicely when seating the primers. I found this helped priming a lot. in fact now I have 2 sizing dies. one in station one and the one in station 2 that has the pin removed (only cause I bent the pin in the universal decapping die... don't ask!).

I use the lee flare and powder drop die in station 3.

in station 4 I have the lee bullet seat and crimp die with the crimp wound completely off.

station 5 is a lee factory crimp die set with a light crimp. these are all for 9mm.

I do hate the spent primer exit system. wish it was like the lee classic turret press I have which works fantastically. the bottom of the ram has a threaded fitting on it (looks like -10) you put plastic hose on it and can run it straight into a bottle on the floor. no mess, no need to empty the ram.

the bullet feeder works fine but only for rounds with a lube groove really. smooth sided rounds can slip out. but for $40 it's ok.

In my country (Australia). a dillon 650 with case feeder is well north of the equivelant $1000USD. a lee loadmaster is way less than half that.

One thing I did was remove the chain reset system from the powder drop and go back to the older style spring re-set. I actually prefer it. it's never failed to reset on me. and it keeps the stupid chain off the left side of the press. makes it look much neater.

I think if you're willing to read a manual, learn HOW something works and then spend a bit of time setting it up the lee can be a fantastic press. The case feeder is one of it's best features. super reliable, no power needed to run it and no NOISE!

I have no doubt at all the dillon is a better made product AND better designed (in some ways). but the lee works really well. the indexing system for one is smarter and smoother. but I think the lee priming system actually has some advantages over the dillon.

[ScottyPotty]

I'm pretty sure the guy that made all of those videos moved to 650

[beechnutbob]

The loadmasters would be a pretty good progressive loader if it had a much better primer feed system. I finally gave up on it as I was lucky to get over a hundred rounds before I had to spend 3 to 5 minutes fixing - clearing the primer feed system an I never let the primer flipper run out of primers. I also would get a flipped primer in a loaded round in one out of 250. I got the press so I would not have to change over my 550 from small primers when I wanted to load 45's. With the primer feed issues and the time to clear them I found it was quicker to just change over the 550 to large pistol

[vwpieces]

I am like fmj3. Bought the loadmaster because I was intrigued by the reviews. The reviews did not deter me but made me want one even more. Had mine up & running before looking at the instructions. Upgraded from a classic turret after 400 rounds, thinking 1600 pulls... I could have 1600 rounds. I load 45 ACP & 9mm.

Only problems I have are the occasional upside down 9mm case from the collator multi-tube case feeder in 9mm & the Auto Disk powder measure where one hole is too small & next is too big for achieving desired charge. Upside down 9mm is no issue as I am always paying close attention to details & can easily see that. Waiting arrival on a Hornady LNL case activated powder measure & PTX caliber specific expanders I need. Sad part is I paid almost as much for the LNL measure, case activated lower & pistol rotor as I did for the entire Loadmaster with dies for 45 ACP. My Auto-Disk is pretty consistent even with Unique, but it is well coated in graphite from prolonged use, maybe 5000 rounds in the past 3 months I have owned it. I just want to be able to dial in a finer increment than the disk system can do.

My turret thumb screw does not seem to come loose as soon as others, maybe 150 rounds. Also over tightening the shell plate causes the machine to operate too hard & the o ring is there to maintain tightness without over torqueing it.

I have a spare die holder for my universal decapper to de-prime dirty brass, before sonic cleaning & tumbling if needed. I never run dirty brass through my other dies. Normal loading, station one is empty, 2 is case sizing & pin removed. 3is powder & mouth expansion, 4 is bullet seat only & 5th light factory crimp. Rounds run flawless in my CZ 75B & 1911.

Hopefully I will have the powder measure & parts by this weekend to develop more precise loads in some hotter powders with a small window that I have.

Hornady also makes an LED lightstrip for $15 that I have arriving with the powder measure parts. Plugs into AC outlet & I will post back how well it works. along with the measure when setup.

[barryjyoung]

Wow. Do you guys throw your computer away when it locks up? Do you throw away the peanut butter when you can't get the lid off? Do you get a new wife when breakfast isn't ready when you wake up?

 

The Lee Loadmaster is an awesome press. I have three of them in addition to my Dillon 650. Unlike the Dillon, it does not cost too much. I can have one for each caliber I regularly load for, and spend way less than a caliber conversion for the 650. I am junking my Dillon and will just buy two more Loadmasters for what I can get out of my used Dillon. 

 

There is one caveat, you have to be more mechanically inclined than a reloading die to be able to use one of these presses. Thirty minutes work with a Dremel on the shell plate, and carrier make this press as smooth as a Dillon. Don't give up, put up. If you are afraid of work or don't know how to do it, then buy a Dillon. If you are smarter than a cast lead 45ACP projectile, buy a Loadmaster or four.

[GrizzlyMagic]

Hey guys,

 

this is super long winded, but it’s my experience so far with a loadmaster and why I love it.

 

I just bought a loadmaster cause single stage presses are slow for 9mm. I load 223 and 6.5 creedmoor on the single stage for now, but I just did my first 200 9mm rounds on the loadmaster with zero issues. I have used a Dillon which made me want a progressive, but I could reload SO MUCH AMMO for the cost of the Dillon, and my engineering brain was up to the task of tinkering (always).

 

it’s October of 2020, so I hope anybody reading this can get an idea of what the loadmaster is TODAY.

 

I spent the first night with my new toy taking it apart and cleaning and lubing it per multiple YouTube videos’ collective input of where to lube and where not to.

 

I spent night #2 doing the case feeder mod with a $2 cut of PEX (the red matches well). I have had 1 upside case in the 960 I tested for effectiveness (yes, I ran 80 cases through 12 times). While loading, I had 0. The only case that was upside down?... A .380 I picked up by mistake at the range.

 

—

the pex actually closes the diameter of the hole and the 9mm can’t slip through upside down because there isn’t enough leverage with tilt to fall in. It’s genius and it works, and now I have 4 feet 9 inches of pex I’ll probably never use.

—

 

My loadmaster came perfectly indexed. It glides smoother than my single stage, but I will say I did not use motor oil or grease; I only had synthetic manual transmission fluid on hand and I think that’s what I’ll stick with. It’s synchromesh, so the addatives are to keep copper synchros in a jeep JK from wearing out, which means more lubricity... I wouldn’t say go buy synchromesh, but it worked.

—

 

pulling the press out of the box left a little to be desired, but it was clamped down to a wobbly plastic table so I could clean it up. Once I took it apart and lubed it up, got an idea of how it worked, and understood what the indexer was doing, I wasn’t afraid to pull the handle thinking I was going to break it.

 

aside from setting up the case feeder by following the videos from the guy above, the press needed 0 adjustment. The primers were going in just right, and when I lessened the primer depth (in case it was pushing too hard) I realized it was already right where it needed to be.

—

 

I could clearly see that, aside from being over-lubricated (a proactive product of production for storage), the press looked very very gently used. As if a couple case had gone around in it, but not loaded anything with the powder drop. This is clearly because they test the units before shipping, or at least my unit if it was a random test from a lot. I was happy to see this; it’s akin to the copper left in a new barrel after they test fire it for accuracy.

—

 

I’m very impressed with this loadmaster, and as I said, I just did my first 200 rounds without a hitch. Well, that’s not true. Going to progressive from single stage has a learning curve, and running out of powder after 121 rounds (it’s not as full as it looks, folks), then realizing I ran out of powder after I had seated a bullet without a primer (I had loaded 120 primers, and then I made a mess realizing I had a case full of powder and no primer) I realized there’s FAR more to watch than a single stage.

 

I checked the shell plate thumbscrew... never needed to be tightened.

 

I checked the die holder... whatever it’s called on this thing... never worked itself loose. I watched the dies as I loaded and they never moved laterally or vertically.

 

I checked my OAL on 50 of the 200 rounds and I have an extreme spread of .009 COAL using Xtreme Bullets and a Hornady bullet seater die.

—

 

I had already primed 50 cases on my lee bench top primer (if you don’t have one for precision rifle rounds, it’s wonderful), but the 130 rounds I used the primer mechanism for was spot on. I couldn’t ask for a better, faster mechanism. My only wish is for a mod that changes priming to the bottom of the stroke, not the top, but the way it works probably doesn’t make that possible. I also didn’t have to keep extra primers loaded in there; I put 10 more in when I ran out and never had a problem with it feeding. The little vertical metal stake (for lack of a better term) is designed to shake the primer tube with every pull. The priming mechanism is on point, and far better than the Hornady LNL auto primer for a single stage!

—

 

with a Size/decap in 1, size/prime in 2, powder/flare in 3, (soon to 3D print a billet feeder and bullet feeder die in 4), and seater in 5, it works great. I might construct an improved lee style bullet feeder for 5 that isn’t reliant on elasticity of polymer to work, which would eliminate the need to boil after 200 rounds, and would also allow for a powder check in 4 (clearly I need one single I lost a bullet and case not realizing the powder was gone).

 

if I can keep an eye on my materials as I go, I think I could bust out another 200 next week in no time flat. I have already ordered the .223 shell plate and a new die holder so I can swap them quickly, but for $175 I might as well just get another press (no brained). I don’t think I would do precision rifle rounds because I only load about 100 at a time and precision does require some added time, but I modded the lee bullet feeder already on my single stage to work with 1.5” 6.5 creed bullets so that’s quick enough anyway.

—

 

if you’re thinking about the loadmaster and you’re smarter than a baboon that only knows how to pull a lever and eat bananas, a minute amount of tinkering goes a long way. I don’t foresee any issues with this press as the plastic pieces are in places plastic can coexist with metal, and if you break them, you’re doing something wrong.

 

Midway USA has them on sale, too, FYI. I got my 9mm kit for $250 with free 2-day shipping.

—

 

the seating die sucks, though, and buying locking collars instead of the BS die lock rings lee sells that need the special BS plastic wrench it comes with and don’t stay tight will save a lot of headache and finger pain. If you can swing it, stick with RCBS, hornady, or Redding dies, or at the very least buy the style collars they have with the setscrew.

 

If you’re still with me, thank you for reading,

Alec

[Absocold]

Use a very light coat of spray silicone lube on the moving/rubbing parts of the case feeder, reapply every 2-3 hundred rounds.

 

Use a thin film of grease on the ramp that pushes the shell plate indexing pawl out.

 

Don't let the ram get too full of spent primers or you'll have a hell of a time getting them out.

 

Get the Lee Auto Drum, put one on every press you own no matter the brand - you'll spend way, way more to get anything better and it'll take up more space.

 

Either properly ground the press or buy some anti-static spray or wipe everything down with dryer sheets or whatever, just watch for static issues. There are many types of metals and plastics all rubbing against each other, don't get laughed at by the fire department because of an errant spark or damage you or your gun because of powder bridging. This goes for all presses.

 

Use the skinny end of a small safety pin to hold the primers back in the flip tray as you're inserting it into the primer feed chute or they'll get all caddy wumpuss.

 

Use Squirrel Daddy pins in your depriming die or keep buying Lee pins over and over and over as you bend them.

 

Put a Lee Universal decapping die in station 1 even if you're not depriming as the large mouth will help position cases properly onto the shell plate.

 

Put a sizing die at station 2 even if you don't need to size to keep cases properly centered during priming.

 

Don't spend too much money getting fancy upgrades and aftermarket options. You'll need that money for the Dillon or Mark7 you'll eventually buy. Yes, a Daisy pellet gun is fine and the tin can can't tell it wasn't an Olympic match grade air rifle that shot it, but quality equipment that just plain works is a joy to use and own, eventually you'll treat yourself and buy better gear.

 

I still have a Loadmaster, it's awesome for small batch loading. Everyone should have one if they load more than a couple calibers. Full changeover between calibers and primer sizes takes 5 minutes, a screwdriver and a crescent wrench. Want to add a caliber? No problem, it'll cost you dies, a $14 turret and a $23 shell plate. In your FACE, Dillon!

[HesedTech]

11 hours ago, Absocold said:

Don't spend too much money getting fancy upgrades and aftermarket options. You'll need that money for the Dillon or Mark7 you'll eventually buy. Yes, a Daisy pellet gun is fine and the tin can can't tell it wasn't an Olympic match grade air rifle that shot it, but quality equipment that just plain works is a joy to use and own, eventually you'll treat yourself and buy better gear.

 

This is a very old thread, and yes I went through the Loadmaster baptism before Dillon, but this made me laugh!  

 

Good job!!