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1100 and weak shells


paul788

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I borrowed an 1100 12 ga. to try at skeet and trap. Picked up a 100 pac of Win. Universal 3 dram eq. 1 1/8 oz. #8s and it is a single shot. A friend handed me a box of AA 3 1/4 dram eq. 1 1/4 oz and it ran fine. At $2-$3 a box price difference I'd like to use the cheaper shells if I can. I found a thread which mentioned boring the gas ports out to .100. Anyone else tried this? Or have another forum I should be searching on?

Thanks

Paul

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A 1100 should shoot any factory shell reliably (ok - it may not shoot one of the super light "training" loads but who has those anyway). Is the 1100 clean and lubricated? When I saw a 1100 that was not reliable it was inevitably very dirty and dry as a bone.

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The O-ring is new. Checked it before I shot and the tube was clean(wiped with a paper towel and no black or gray on towel after) The slots in the ring were about 30 degrees apart, not 180. I wiped it down and turned the slots to 180 apart. I lubed it with Mobil 1 and will try it out later next week.

Thanks

Paul

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The O-ring is new. Checked it before I shot and the tube was clean(wiped with a paper towel and no black or gray on towel after) The slots in the ring were about 30 degrees apart, not 180. I wiped it down and turned the slots to 180 apart. I lubed it with Mobil 1 and will try it out later next week.

Thanks

Paul

30 deg is more than good, you woudl just about have to have them lined up dead on to make a dif.

We ran Pam cooking spray in our Browning Autos Works great , allmost too good , but if you leav it in for a month it gums up. our guns used to Never sit for more than 9 days.

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Not only do I believe not all shells are created equal, I believe not all 1100's are created equal. Just as Paul is experiencing, my 1100 (SA Skeet Grade) has never run on light loads. Of all models I expected the a Skeet Model to shoot light loads. Anyway, I have tried running it wet, running it dry, new rings , new pistons, cleaned spring in stock and nothing ever seems to be THE cure. AA's and Remmy STS at 1 1/8 oz running 1250 plus are all it seems to run reliably with.

I have heard mixed comments on reaming gas port , but like Paul I think I am going to go this route as nothing else seems to be successful.

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Not only do I believe not all shells are created equal, I believe not all 1100's are created equal. Just as Paul is experiencing, my 1100 (SA Skeet Grade) has never run on light loads. Of all models I expected the a Skeet Model to shoot light loads. Anyway, I have tried running it wet, running it dry, new rings , new pistons, cleaned spring in stock and nothing ever seems to be THE cure. AA's and Remmy STS at 1 1/8 oz running 1250 plus are all it seems to run reliably with.

I have heard mixed comments on reaming gas port , but like Paul I think I am going to go this route as nothing else seems to be successful.

+1 on the AA's curing all that troubles my 1100. :)

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The ports need to be cleaned periodically too, if this borrowed gun hasn't been taken care of reasonably well it is possible that the ports are clogged up. My 1100 will run 1 ounce low recoil loads, 7/8 ounce handloads running 1150 fps and 3/4 ounce handloads at 1250. It has run every factory shell I have ever put in it.

I go very heavy on the oil, 5w-30 Mobil 1 most of the time, very little cleaning other than wiping the mag tube down and poking the ports out every couple thousand rounds. It has demonic elves with razor blades inside that will try to chop the ends of your fingers off if you ever stick them in the receiver, they even chop rags to shreds when pushed around inside with a screwdriver!! Beware the 1100 demons!!

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I've drilled my ports. It's made a difference in reliability.

Only problem is there is more gas ==> the gas is dirty ==> it gets dirty faster.

Right now I still have stove pipes. I'm trying to find away to increase the extractor's spring tension. If figure if you increase the spring tension the more positive the ejection. Also a lighter action spring can also probably help reduce the ejection problem.

I figure in some aspects it's just like a 1911. Not kicking out the brass enough? Try a lower powered recoil spring and tweak the extractor's tension.

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Drilling the ports can cause bolt speed to go way up...this will cause extraction and ejection problems.

Not to mention battering the bolt and receiver.

Use caution whem making radical changes to the gas system.

You can tune it to run wimpy loads...but when you switch to slugs or buck....its going to beat the crap out of the gun.

jim

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Anyone want to quote bit size/ reamer diameter on opening the gas ports? Do you do one or both or is it do one and test?

Thanks

Paul

Get out your # drill set , 1 - 60. I think a stock port is something like a 39. Try one and see if it will go in. If it does, go next size up ( lower # ) until it does not. That will be the one to try first.

Chuck it in a hand drill and drill out the port. the existing hole will guide it just fine. Now, shoot the beast and see if that helps.

I do not think that you need to open them unless you have done something else such as barrel ports. If you are just trying to get a new gun to run, it is wrong place to look.

Shoot 500 - 1000 shells of the 1 - 1/8 oz 3 1/4 dram stuff first.

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The ports need to be cleaned periodically too, if this borrowed gun hasn't been taken care of reasonably well it is possible that the ports are clogged up. My 1100 will run 1 ounce low recoil loads, 7/8 ounce handloads running 1150 fps and 3/4 ounce handloads at 1250. It has run every factory shell I have ever put in it.

I go very heavy on the oil, 5w-30 Mobil 1 most of the time, very little cleaning other than wiping the mag tube down and poking the ports out every couple thousand rounds. It has demonic elves with razor blades inside that will try to chop the ends of your fingers off if you ever stick them in the receiver, they even chop rags to shreds when pushed around inside with a screwdriver!! Beware the 1100 demons!!

Man - you are right about the demons inside the receiver with razor blades - especially an older 1100 that has been shot a lot.

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  • 1 month later...

To close this out: I lubed the action bars and piston lightly with Mobil 1 0W-20 and have a reliable Remington again. I discovered that the gun had been sitting unfired since the middle '80s. Fresh oil is a wonderful thing.

Paul

Now to learn to hit anything with it.

Edited by paul788
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Been shotting at them dad burn little birdies a while and as a rule most of the Remington 1100 shooters don't recommend any motion lotion on the gas rings - tend to gum um up - I would tend to lean to-wards weak shells as to the cause of your gun not cycling properly. I got the 1100 back some 12 years ago when my son wanted to try some skeet shooting, the following year I picked up Ruger Red Label. Unless you are loading your own I would not alter the gas ports - a worn out rubber O ring will cause some of what you describe also - try different shells -Remington STS is my favorite but Remington Game Club are a wee bit cheaper in cost -heck you ain't planning to eat um so don't spend a lot for a days worth of fun . "Just my two hulls worth" Joe A.

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  • 3 weeks later...

After lots of experimentation I find my 1100s run better wet than dry. By that I mean I start with a clean gun and before I use it I pull the the forend off and I drown the action bars, tube everything with Rem Lube spray or Breakfree spray. The rest of the gun is clean and lubed as well. After I'm done I pull the forearm back off and wipe all the lube off, the crud and dirt comes off very easy, makes it very easy to clean. Repeat next time I want to shoot it, works good for me my 1100 runs now.

Something to check that gets missed often is the action spring in the stock, these get rusty and do wear out. At least pull it out and clean and lube it, a good idea to start the season with a new spring.

Edited by Ross Carter
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