Lee Loadmaster

[The_Vigilante]

I am thinking about buying a Lee Loadmaster(the basic press) to load 9mm primarily. I already have the 9mm dies. What else will I need to buy to get set up? Yes, I know I need to get a Collator. Anything else so I won't keep having to go back and buy it later? Thanks. I know this forum leans heavily to Dillon but just can't afford the 550B at this time.

[North]

I would start with the Lee turret press. I have heard way to many horror stories about the load-master. I started with a Lee turret press and still have it set up for 45ACP. (Dillon set up for 40SW) I can load roughly 200 rounds an hour with it, and you can de activate the auto index while you learn what your doing.

Spend the difference on a chrony.

http://www.factorysales.com/cgi/catalog/br...g/rlpress2.html

Get the turret kit #90928; then all you need is the chrony and dies. Great starter on the cheap.

Edited December 6, 2008 by North

[Y. Koester]

Get some extra primer feeders or primer feeder parts. They are plastic and will get mangled by a flipped primer. I have a load master and will say everything on it is ok except the primer system. Just my .02

[Hi-Power Jack]

You'll need a tumbler to clean the brass and a sifter

to clean the cleaning media out of the brass.

A chronograph iff you need to know the velocity and

you don't know someone who will chrono your loads

for you.

A caliper so you know how long your loads are seated

(O.A.L.) - again, not critical as long as you make them

as long as they'll feed thru your mags/chamber, and

make them look like factory loads.

Whether you need the chrono & calipers depends on

how serious you are and whether you can borrow them,

but the calipers are inexpensive, and you can get a

Chrony for $90.

Good luck.

Jack

[IronEqualizer]

I started out with the pro 1000 and then went to the lee loadmaster. I loaded over 20,000 rounds on the pro 1000's but after a about 2000 on the loadmaster the primer parts started breaking left and right. I replaced over $50 worth of $.50 and $1 parts. I bought them by the bag full. The loadmaster is what drove me to the dillon 650. I ended up giving the loadmaster away. The pro 1000 was so much more dependable although finicky in itself the parts do not break like the loadmaster. This was just my experience others may have better luck as well as you. I hope this helps.

AL

[Resjudicata]

I am simply amazed by how many people come to the "Non Dillon" section and post non responsive posts bagging on anything that isn't Dillon.

The guy said he can't afford a Dillon. He isn't buying a Dillon. He is asking for recommendations about what to get with the press he is buying which isn't a Dillon.

To the original poster, if any parts break during the warrantee then call Lee and they will send you new parts. I've had very good luck with them. (To the naysayers, Dillon parts break too. That's why they have a warrantee). Even after the warrantee is up the parts are very inexpensive. To help lessen down time I suggest getting some of the plastic primer system parts. As mentioned above they can get mangled if the press isn't set up properly.

That said, the most important thing about the Loadmaster is getting it set up properly. For that, go to UTUBE and do a search for Loadmaster and look for videos from Shadowdog500. Get the press set up properly and it will run. When you get it going remember to clean the primer system about every 300-500 rounds or you will get stoppages.

The Lee loaders take some mechanical ability to get them running and keep them running. If you have that ability then there is no reason to buy a Dillon.

Chris

ETA: BTW, I don't think they sell the Loadmaster without the dies. I believe it come set up for one caliber. If you find it without the dies then make sure the shell plate, primer setup and case feeder are the right ones for the caliber you are wanting to load for.

Also, if you don't have it already I strongly suggest getting the Lee Factory Crimp die for the caliber you are loading and put it in the last position on the press. That die resizes the fully loaded round when it crimps the brass and saves a lot of trouble with feeding issues later.

Edited December 8, 2008 by Resjudicata

[austex]

I have a Loadmaster that I used for 9mm for a while. I had a lot of trouble with the priming system, and recommend that you get several of each part in that system: punch, trough, cover, slider, and lever. I also recommend you get the blast shield; I have had 3 primer detonations, each of which set off about 10-15 primers in the trough but none in the tray. The detonation makes the surfaces of the trough and cover very rough, which makes them unusable. I also mashed a lot of sliders.

As noted above, you should get a factory crimp die, if you don't already have one. Some people suggest using a universal decapping die in station 1, with a sizer in station 2 to help hold the case steady while priming. I didn't find that setup to help much if any.

No one mentioned a scale; you will need a good scale. If you are on a real tight budget, you might consider the Franklin electronic scale from Midway. It works reasonably well.

Make sure you mount the press solidly to a very stable bench.

You can get other good tips from the videos at www.loadmastervideos.com as well as the forum there.

I ultimately got another press for 9mm, which is my main USPSA (open, major) and IDPA (ESP, minor) round. I still use the Loadmaster a lot, though. I have loaded several 1000 of 40 S&W and 45 ACP with virtually no primer problems at all. Lee uses the same shellplate for 9mm and 40 S&W; I suspect the 9mm priming problems all result from the much looser fit of the 9mm case in the shellplate.

Good luck!

[FLL1911]

...

The Lee loaders take some mechanical ability to get them running and keep them running. If you have that ability then there is no reason to buy a Dillon.

...

Unless you do not mind the Loadmaster idiosyncrasies drive you insane.

I still have my Loadmaster I started loading 45 ACP, 30-06 and 22-250, and I can tell, it works but it is far away what you expect from a progressive machine. It will jam frequently as you try to speed up to – let’s say – 200 rounds / hour.

I still have it set for my 45 ACP loads, but I try to get mentally prepared before starting reloading. I do have mechanical abilities, but it is not the case with the Loadmaster. I like the Loadmaster, but in my opinion it has 2 major design problems:

1) the case feeder slider movement is driven by the crank slider, which is adjusted by friction. As you reload and depending the amount of cases you have in the tube, pressuring the feeder slide against its base, the friction amount changes and the case does not go all the way to the shell plate

2) the primer feeding mechanism is driven by shaking (the primer tray), and by a small plastic finger and arm which will be crushed soon or later. There is no adjustment for the primer feeder, and sideways and upside down primer is quite frequent.

I found these problems very annoying to the point I stopped using it for my rifle calibers and bought another machine (not Lee) for my 40 cal loads. I also have heard that several people are actually happy with their Loadmaster, but just keep in mind that these problems do exist whether or not they bother you.

Case feeder operation:

Primer operation:

[SharonAnne9x23]

I just went through the Midway catalog of Lee presses. The Pro 1000 and Loadmaster are on backorder. Good luck.

I had a Pro 1000 and it served me well. I bought a Loadmaster as a cheap alternative to a Dillon, to load .45acp. At less than 1000 rounds the shell plate carrier, the part attached to the ram, broke. Not a minor fix, a catastrophic failure.

Yes the Dillon is higher priced. But you get what you pay for. You can buy a Loadmaster for $215 and it may or may not work. You can spend $340 for a Dillon Square Deal, fully set up, dies, powder measure etc., and have a press that will work forever.

Lee has a 2 year guarantee for parts replacement. After 2 years they will refurbish any press for 50% of the Suggested Retail Price of the press, if you return it to the factory. hmmm, The Loadmaster lists for $330. Street price is $215. So for $165 Lee will refurbish your press, or for $215 you can have a new one.

The Dillon Square Deal is $340. Anything that breaks or wears out, the factory sends you the new parts for free. If the press needs to be refurbished, you must return it to Dillon. They will totally refurbish to new condition for FREE, Forever.

Sorry, but Lee loses big time. I understand the lack of funds problem. But do you waste it or spend it well?

Choose wisely young apprentice.

Edited December 9, 2008 by SharonAnne9x23

[RV man]

I am happy with my Lee presses and have three Pro 1000s.

When I started reloading I set myself up with the following:

Press-of course

Brass tumbler

Media separator

Digital scale

Digital caliper

Chronograph

Chamber gauge

Lee factory crimp dies assure reliability in semi-autos

You can "get by" without some of this stuff, but you will want it at some point if you are going to produce quality ammo and know what it is doing in your gun. The cost of the press is not as much as the rest of the stuff you will need.

Then you can start looking for:

Bullets

Powder

Primers

Brass

I hope this does not discourage or overwhelm you. I have to reload in order to shoot as much as I do and in order to shoot major 9.

Good luck

Bill

[Resjudicata]

I just went through the Midway catalog of Lee presses. The Pro 1000 and Loadmaster are on backorder. Good luck.

I had a Pro 1000 and it served me well. I bought a Loadmaster as a cheap alternative to a Dillon, to load .45acp. At less than 1000 rounds the shell plate carrier, the part attached to the ram, broke. Not a minor fix, a catastrophic failure.

Yes the Dillon is higher priced. But you get what you pay for. You can buy a Loadmaster for $215 and it may or may not work. You can spend $340 for a Dillon Square Deal, fully set up, dies, powder measure etc., and have a press that will work forever.

Lee has a 2 year guarantee for parts replacement. After 2 years they will refurbish any press for 50% of the Suggested Retail Price of the press, if you return it to the factory. hmmm, The Loadmaster lists for $330. Street price is $215. So for $165 Lee will refurbish your press, or for $215 you can have a new one.

The Dillon Square Deal is $340. Anything that breaks or wears out, the factory sends you the new parts for free. If the press needs to be refurbished, you must return it to Dillon. They will totally refurbish to new condition for FREE, Forever.

Sorry, but Lee loses big time. I understand the lack of funds problem. But do you waste it or spend it well?

Choose wisely young apprentice.

The comparison of a Loadmaster to a Square Deal isn't even close. The Loadmaster is a vastly better press with many more features that a Square Deal. I can't remember how many times I've heard people say that their PLASTIC Square Deal load handle BROKE OFF. Plus the features aren't even remotely the same.

BTW, to get a Dillon with the features of the Loadmaster you are looking at more likely around $1k and no the press wouldn't be the Square Deal. I can buy almost 5 Loadmasters for that price.

Thanks for the pro Dillon commercial. And your answer to the original poster's question of what else he is going to need for the press he is going to buy was exactly what?

Chris

[Bronson7]

The Load Master is a fine press if it's set up correctly. I've cranked out thousands of rounds on mine with no problems other than those that were self induced. My priming and case feed systems are faultless. I'm not ashamed to say I love this press. I've had way less problems with it than my 550 (which I hated with a purple passion) If you're an intelligent person with a modicum of mechanical savy, you will not have a problem with the LM. All the the problems you hear, are from the "parrots" and from those who couldn't or wouldn't take the time to set one up. As was mentioned earlier, watch the videos on youtube and you won't go wrong. There has been a resurgence in the popularity of the LM, now that set-up instructions/videos are more detailed. More and more folks are enjoying this very capable and affordable press.

Bronson7

[98sr20ve]

I am thinking about buying a Lee Loadmaster(the basic press) to load 9mm primarily. I already have the 9mm dies. What else will I need to buy to get set up? Yes, I know I need to get a Collator. Anything else so I won't keep having to go back and buy it later? Thanks. I know this forum leans heavily to Dillon but just can't afford the 550B at this time.

Lee Classic Cast Turret (LCT) is a far better press then the LM. I have owned both. I thought I could not afford a 550 as well. So I bought a Lee Classic Cast ($200 all set up), Then a LM (another $200 just for the press), Sold the Lee Classic Cast Turret (bad idea), Got very tired of the LM, Bought a 550 sold the LM. I could have just bought the 550 from the start. If you are going to get the Lee at least buy the Dillon Elimintor scale. Get the LCT and live with the 150rds + a hour rate. Even with all the "help videos/fixes/forum advice" the LM is not a well designed press. Some people get them working OK but even some of the authors of those videos have moved on the the 550.

[98sr20ve]

The Load Master is a fine press if it's set up correctly. I've cranked out thousands of rounds on mine with no problems other than those that were self induced. My priming and case feed systems are faultless. I'm not ashamed to say I love this press. I've had way less problems with it than my 550 (which I hated with a purple passion) If you're an intelligent person with a modicum of mechanical savy, you will not have a problem with the LM. All the the problems you hear, are from the "parrots" and from those who couldn't or wouldn't take the time to set one up. As was mentioned earlier, watch the videos on youtube and you won't go wrong. There has been a resurgence in the popularity of the LM, now that set-up instructions/videos are more detailed. More and more folks are enjoying this very capable and affordable press.

Bronson7

I am a homebuilder, I can rebuild engines, transmaissions and design suspension items on cars. I can make a bicycle from a frameset. In other words I am not a noob. Some LM may work ok. Mine was a nightmare. It's misleading to blame the users when in reality the indexing setup is just "fair" and the priming system is a joke and downright dangerous when its not working. I have loaded 10K+ on a 550 with ZERO tipped primers. Don't blame the users for Lees crappy design. Some have made it work but it's still a crappy design.

[SharonAnne9x23]

crappy is as crappy does resjudicata

[HSMITH]

I had a loadmaster and it was FAST when it ran. I had lots of problems with the priming system, buy another COMPLETE priming system with it. Not a big deal if you are patient and can load ahead far enough to tinker when you have time. If you load far enough ahead of your use and have plenty of patience you can make large quantities of good ammo with a loadmaster. If you are tight on time just skip it, it will work fine until you need it and leave you hanging. It is one hell of a press for what it costs, if they would fix the priming system I would have 5 or 6 of them lined up on the bench but they won't and they don't have any intention of doing so last time I talked to them. IMO the press is about 80% 'there', if they would finish it they could crush the competition.

[Canuck-IL]

FWIW ... the late Bob Brown, a noted SoCal Bullseye smith wrote up the following tips for painless (relatively?) Loadmaster use - he used 2 for years:

"On that primer activator lever pin. Polish the area that contacts the lever and put some grease or teflon-based oil on it.

Put a small dot of grease on the angled area of that lever that the pin contacts to activate it.

Put some grease on top of the primer punch activating lever where it contacts the adjustment bolt.

Remove the primer assembly from the press. Take off the top of the trough and you'll see 3 or 4 little casting lugs on there...about the size of a straight-pin head in diameter but only about 1-2 thou thick. Remove them and make the area flush, with a file, preferably. Rub in some FP10 oil and then remove any trace of it.

Inspect the channel where that little black plastic piece moves and remove any casting burrs if you find them. That piece needs to slide absolutely effortlessly and smoothly in its channel. If it’s ‘jerky’ you’ll have primer-flip occasionally.

Operating tip: DO NOT let the primer tray get empty...you've probably already found out what a headache that can cause!

Another tip: When operating the operating lever, make the downstroke rapid and the upstroke slow. It helps to agitate the primer tray and keep them moving into the trough. Don't make the upstroke rapid or you'll kick out the indexing rod...if you've lubricated it.

Be sure and use some STP on the case feeder's 1/4" square operating rod. Otherwise the case slider will not properly do its job when you raise the operating lever.

Put some grease on the contact points on the frame where the indexer's lever contacts it.

Clean the top of the primer punch by pushing down on the lever to raise it and then just wipe it clean with a finger.

I have put a lock-screw on the powder hopper to keep me from being able to turn it off (a hard-earned lesson).

I also put some masking tape around the inside edge of the hopper's lid to seal it a bit better and also to stop it from flapping around. I just happen to have a roll of tape that's just the right width...about 3/16".

I've changed to the spring-operated powder measure and got rid of that blasted bead-chain.

I also took an engraver pen and put the number of the powder measure cavity on the outside edge where I could see it from the front...and wiped some white chalk over it to make it stand out.

Tighten the shell plate nut, but not too tight or indexing will become too difficult and you can damage the carrier and/or, the indexing will get goofy.

Keep the ram lubed, both grease and oil.

I've bent down that little sliding thing at the bottom of the ram, for spent primer dumping, so that it's open all the time. Then when I clean the press, I just blowout each of the cavities in the carrier to get the primers to come out the bottom and into a tray that I attached to the bench below it. Air compressor works great for that.

On the primer assembly: There's a little piece of white plastic about half an inch long that is nearly hidden by the primer activating lever (that black plastic thing). It is supposed to supply spring pressure to the assembly to facilitate the 'shaking' of the tray. I cut the base off a 22 case, flattened the case and slipped it over that little piece. It supplies just enough added pressure to make the primer tray shake more vigorously and keep 'em moving! Another way to do the same thing (per Richard Lee) is to put that part of the assembly in boiling water for 30 seconds and then bend it a little to apply more pressure...but it'll eventually return to the original position and be too weak...but the 22 case stays put.

Clean the primer trough assembly occasionally so that nothing will impede the downward progress of the primers.

I like to use a Lyman "M" die in station #2 to flare the case mouth instead of the built-in one with the Lee die that bells it. Works great!"

/Bryan

[Bronson7]

...

The Lee loaders take some mechanical ability to get them running and keep them running. If you have that ability then there is no reason to buy a Dillon.

...

Unless you do not mind the Loadmaster idiosyncrasies drive you insane.

I still have my Loadmaster I started loading 45 ACP, 30-06 and 22-250, and I can tell, it works but it is far away what you expect from a progressive machine. It will jam frequently as you try to speed up to – let’s say – 200 rounds / hour.

I still have it set for my 45 ACP loads, but I try to get mentally prepared before starting reloading. I do have mechanical abilities, but it is not the case with the Loadmaster. I like the Loadmaster, but in my opinion it has 2 major design problems:

1) the case feeder slider movement is driven by the crank slider, which is adjusted by friction. As you reload and depending the amount of cases you have in the tube, pressuring the feeder slide against its base, the friction amount changes and the case does not go all the way to the shell plate

2) the primer feeding mechanism is driven by shaking (the primer tray), and by a small plastic finger and arm which will be crushed soon or later. There is no adjustment for the primer feeder, and sideways and upside down primer is quite frequent.

I found these problems very annoying to the point I stopped using it for my rifle calibers and bought another machine (not Lee) for my 40 cal loads. I also have heard that several people are actually happy with their Loadmaster, but just keep in mind that these problems do exist whether or not they bother you.

Case feeder operation:

Primer operation:

Funny, my priming system and case feeder work flawlessly. As a matter of fact, my entire LM works flawlessly.

The big problem people have with the case feeder is that they don't set it up with a full tube of brass (pretty obvious what would happen otherwise).

As far as primer problems, a simple check for flash on the slider and cleanliness goes a long way. One of the biggest problems I've seen with people's set-ups is the press is mounted to a flimsy bench causing the primers to bounce around on the punch. Depriming in station #1 and sizing in #2 also greatly aids in the priming operation.

No, I ain't buying all these problems people are having due to the machines design. It's plain and simply due to ignorance (I'm not using that in a derogatory manner) concerning how the LM works

The thing with the LM is it's all in the set-up. If you don't have the patience nor the ability, then yes, pay three times as much for another press. I've owned two Dillon 500s and a Square Deal and for me the LM runs circles around them.

Bronson7

[SharonAnne9x23]

well. after those 2 I might just give the Loadmaster another try. I WANT the Loadmaster to work. I so loved my Pro 1000 that I was a Lee fan. Time will tell.

[Graham Smith]

I had a Lee Pro and loaded a whole pile of 9mm ammo with it with very few problems. I even had a bullet feeder working with it – no mean feat I can tell you. One main problem I found was that I needed to run a separate crimp station since the Pro is only a three die press. The other was that I was going to start loading .40S&W and decided I’d get a Loadmaster for the .40 and then eventually move the 9mm over to it as well.

Fast forward… After fussing with the brass feeder for a few days, I got that working but decided I really liked the Pro brass feeder better. What really wasn’t working out so well was that about a quarter of the finished ammo was failing to pass muster in my L.E. Wilson case gage, that’s when I found out about the Glock bulge and the EGW die.

Fast forward and skipping a bunch of details… At this point, I was getting annoyed with the auto brass feeder as I was doing a lot of small batches and adjusting things, so I disconnected the bar that advanced the mechanism and just started sliding the feeder by hand. This was exactly the same thing I had done on the Pro with the bullet feeder and I found that I really did like this semi-automatic functioning better than full automatic.

That’s when the big revolution came, slowly but surely, I was turning my Lee fully auto-indexing progressive press into a semi-manual progressive like the Dillion 550. And for me, that was a much better configuration. So, with much wailing and gnashing of teeth and careful budgeting, I bought a 550 (it’s amazing how many weeks in a row I can eat peanut butter and honey sandwiches and a glass of milk for lunch – got me thru college, but that’s another story).

All in all, I like all the presses I have owned for one reason or another. I think the Pro is the simplest most efficient design and if it were a 4 die machine, I might still be using it. The LoadMaster is a great high volume press, but it is fussier and needs more attention. I think that the 550 is the most versatile – I can run small and large batches with no changes in setup. Now if I could just graft the Pro case feeder onto it…

As to the Lee priming system; I had less problems with the LoadMaster as it primed on the upstroke which put all the “action” on the same stroke. The biggest key to the LM is to keep it clean – at the end of every session, tear it down and remove the priming system and clean it. And keep some canned air around and frequently blow any powder clear of the mechanisms. Last but not least; never, ever, force it! If you feel any resistance, STOP and find out what the problem is.

[HSMITH]

Bronson, my every day job is technical trainer and repair technician on cutting edge CNC machinery. A HUGE tolerance window for me geometrically is .0005" per 20", positional tolerances are typically less than .0001", fit is usually a max of .0004" with most things are a lot tighter than that. Robotics and automation are easy. I can rebuild an automatic transmission, engines, you name it. If I can't fix it odds are very high that it isn't broken. My loadmaster was set up correctly, it wasn't on a flimsy bench and in fact the bench it was on weighs over 350 pounds. I sold it with full disclosure to a friend that is one of the best mechanics I have ever known, the sort of guy that built his own airplane from start to finish and it is perfect, that press still requires regular tinkering and replacement of cheesy plastic parts for the index and priming system to stay running. I don't think you intended to be insulting in your assessment of the source of loadmaster problems but it isn't far from it. I am not taking offense, just letting you know that I completely disagree with your assessment. I only loaded about 25K rounds on mine, and my buddy has loaded about 20K on it. It is far from perfect.

[Bronson7]

Bronson, my every day job is technical trainer and repair technician on cutting edge CNC machinery. A HUGE tolerance window for me geometrically is .0005" per 20", positional tolerances are typically less than .0001", fit is usually a max of .0004" with most things are a lot tighter than that. Robotics and automation are easy. I can rebuild an automatic transmission, engines, you name it. If I can't fix it odds are very high that it isn't broken. My loadmaster was set up correctly, it wasn't on a flimsy bench and in fact the bench it was on weighs over 350 pounds. I sold it with full disclosure to a friend that is one of the best mechanics I have ever known, the sort of guy that built his own airplane from start to finish and it is perfect, that press still requires regular tinkering and replacement of cheesy plastic parts for the index and priming system to stay running. I don't think you intended to be insulting in your assessment of the source of loadmaster problems but it isn't far from it. I am not taking offense, just letting you know that I completely disagree with your assessment. I only loaded about 25K rounds on mine, and my buddy has loaded about 20K on it. It is far from perfect.

HS, certainly not my intention to insult anyone, especially you. I'm just constantly wondering why so many folks have problems with the LM when mine works VERY well. I don't get it. I destroyed one "cheesey" nylon part (primer slider) on my LM and it was my fault (and now I know what NOT to do). Not counting the primer tray/trough, there are only two nylon parts in the priming system. As far as the indexing system: I have no idea what your talking about. The only part that's plastic is the flipper on the end of the indexing rod and I can't envision someone destroying that. Thinking in three dimensions goes a long way in setting up the LM. I'm sorry you and your buddy have had bad experiences with the LM but for me, it's been a joy. Again HS, I value your input and certainly didn't intend to insult you or anyone else.

Bronson7

[wide45]

The Loadmaster is a great press for 5-10 thousand rounds. Then the primer punch goes sideways, wrecks the primer feed system, and cracks the shellplate carrier. Rebuild it with new parts, and 5-10 thousand rounds later, it will happen again.

I gave up on keeping the priming system going, and loaded a lot of rounds by hand priming, separate from the press. When I switched caliber on my competition gun, I refused to switch over the Loadmaster, and eventually got a 1050. Best gun related purchase I ever made.

[The_Vigilante]

To all that replied to this thread, thanks. I got an education on the pros and cons of the Loadmaster-what to do and what not to do. Anyway, I was able to buy a Loadmaster from a member of this Forum who replaced it with a Dillon 550. I am looking forward to getting it set up and producing 9mm ammo for IDPA. Will keep you posted on my trials and tribulations.

[Irishlad]

Sounds like they need to introduce a "Loadmaster II" or another model, fix and/or redesign the problem area's and raise the price. Maybe they are too cheap.

My SDB has broken many times, just two weeks ago...again, and I've considered other presses like the Loadmaster. But, too many "problems" on the net.

A "clue" is the amount of videos, self-help from consumers to get and keep it running.