Siphon Odesse Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 The only time my C More lost zero is when the body had cracks above and below the windage adj screw. Went from doing 1" groups to 8" groups real quick! Look around at the body for any cracks, large or small. The rebody does not cost that much and I had the scope back in 10 days! BB, excuse my ignorance, but does this mean C-More rebodies the serendipity? Have looked for info on this on their website, but found nothing. May I ask what they (if it is indeed C-More) charged for this and exactly what they did? Regards, Siphon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerwas Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 Seeing this post up top again reminded me I forgot to post that I discovered what my problem was last year. Rear C more mount bolt was 3/4 turn too loose, and the front C more mount bolt hole was stripped. A new mount and a tight C more solved my problem. Doesn't hurt to double check the bolts to be sure they are snug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM3808 Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 Siphon, I just had a slide ride C-More re-bodied, it was cracked at the windage adjustment screw. I shipped it to them UPS which I paid for, they took all the parts off the the old body and put them in a new one, shipped back to me fo $59.75. It took about 2 weeks. Outstanding service! You just call them to set it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siphon Odesse Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 Siphon,I just had a slide ride C-More re-bodied, it was cracked at the windage adjustment screw. I shipped it to them UPS which I paid for, they took all the parts off the the old body and put them in a new one, shipped back to me fo $59.75. It took about 2 weeks. Outstanding service! You just call them to set it up. DJM, Thanks. Great to know this is in fact an option. I've been experimenting with an old C-More Serendipity; grond off the mounts and tried to mount it on a Slipstream mount. Drilled one hole near the battery compartment, no sweat. However the front C-More mounting hole gives me trouble; not enough room between mount and slide (nor are there any threads in the C-More that will engage the bolt that came with the mount, which is pre-drilled for C-More, by the way) to enter from the bottom of the mount. The other way .. well, I don't see how I can make the bolt enter the C-More hole without bending the screen part of the sight all the way up and out .. and off. Probably a better idea to have C-More do this re-body thing. Regards, Siphon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt P. Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 Anytime my cmore has lost zero was because of the two mounting screws comng loose. I use loctite on them and they have not moved since then. I travel on airplanes with the guns in a case and that has never caused an issue either. I lock down all my adjustment screws and it just stays there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazos Custom Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Siphon, If you are trying to convert a Serendipity to work with the Slipstream mount here are some instructions: Convert your Serendipity The socket head screws go in from the top but you have to drill the holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM3808 Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 I converted a Serendipity using those instructions to fit an Alchin mount, worked perfectly, saved buying a new scope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siphon Odesse Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Siphon,If you are trying to convert a Serendipity to work with the Slipstream mount here are some instructions: Convert your Serendipity The socket head screws go in from the top but you have to drill the holes. Thank you so much for the tip, brilliant stuff. Also, I wrote C-More, who said there was no problem sending the sight(s) to them for re-bodying. They'll even re-body a Serendipity into a Slide-Ride! I think I know now how to alter a Serendipity with cracked mounting holes, but am tempted to let C-More re-body my Serendipity. .. well, actually; Serendipities (can you say that?).. as I seem to have .. well, sort of broken the screen sort of ..off, on one of them. Oh, well. Learning every day. Regards, Siphon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 A friend of mine had his C-More loose the windage zero and found he needed to put a washer inder the screw to keep it locked down. No more problems afret that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigstick0000 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I had my module go out on my steel gun last summer at the state steel challenge. I asked everyone on my squad if they knew why my module was blinking. One guy told me itwas my module burning out. Put a knew module in and shot the next stage, point of aim was off horribly. I didn't know or think about the point of aim being off by changing the module out. rezeroed and good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whoops! Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I had bad luck with several polymer C-more's not shooting to what was, in my opinion, the gun's potential. I now have an aluminum body c-more and am very happy with it. It is a much more consistent sight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cylindrically challenged Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I own 2 plastic bodied C-Mores and the zero on both of them is quite unreliable. I would never trust either of them without testing it the day before a match. Mine seem to wander when the temperature changes. I'm thinking the the plastic bow on the front of the C-More expands and contracts with temperature change pushing the lense forward and aft. Most of my POI shift is in the verticle plane. I would not buy another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebridge Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) Wow, Benos is an awesome place for information. I have a cmore and have had no issues but after this read I will know if or when stuff starts to go silly. Edited March 6, 2012 by thebridge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 http://re-gun.com/2011/05/c-more-care-and-feeding-fixing-wandering-windage/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebridge Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 cool thanks, i have blue already an that is something i could need to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootertheshooter Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Bullet touching the comp. Just for giggles try shooting it without the comp. I just experienced the same issue. Never saw the signs on the comp but after removing it she shot perfectly zero. Going to ream out the comp and hopefully that will resolve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritzthemoose Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 So, I'm rolling along shooting Area-2 yesterday and today. Things are going well, I've shot a clean match and I'm generally having a solid performance. I get to the 8th stage, take a couple of shots, put one way right into the hard cover on the second target, didn't call it there, but it was on the move so I just figured that was why it was right, saw it and made it up. Then I get to a long range popper and can't hit it...the freakin' gun is hitting 6-8" right. Dead center hold, slow press and a clean miss. The problem was worse because of the lighting I couldn't see where the bullets were hitting. I burn through three mags and finally take down the last popper by aiming off the left side of the center. I go up to the sight in area and sure enough, it's hitting 6-8" right....wtf? This gun/scope has never, ever done anything weird. I checked the scope mount, solid as a vault. The tension screw on the windage seemed tight when I loosened it to make the adjustment. I got it back to point of aim and cranked down the the tension screw, and it was still right on afterwards, but can't for the life of me figure out what the heck happened. Anybody ever have one do this out of the blue? Second question, I've been told that the tactical (aluminum body) C-Mores hold their zero better....anybody know if that's generally true or not? I'll eat the 2oz weight difference to never have this happen again! I figured I'd be in a good position to win my class, but after a 53s stage when it should have been 25-27s, I'm probably toast. Fortunately, or unfortunately, some of my direct competion have had a couple of disasters, so there might still be hope, but this is about as pissed as I get when it comes to shooting. I don't mind when I mess up so much, but when my gear lets me down it's a whole different situation. Hi Bart mine was going around 15cm high and around 25 right over the winter. Why no idea. Want to zero it and had lots of troulbe. Had it thightened the screw lost zero and so on. Finally got it and so far no problems again but I am carefull now testfire it frequently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacala Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Second Post today ??? I have a C-More STS on my Open Glock 17 and on 2 or 3 occasions I've had to re-zero the sight- was shooting to left(if I remember correctly) A week back it happened again!!! On close inspection/checking, I found that one of the 2 locking screws/bolts was a teeny bit loose.I had blue loctited it originally, so I "redid" both bolts with blue loctite, went to range and re-zeroed. Have not shot a match since to give it a real test.9mm Open Glocks are a real test of Loctited screws. Just my experience!! Best Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocketCity1911 Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 http://re-gun.com/2011/05/c-more-care-and-feeding-fixing-wandering-windage/ This seems to have cured my windage drifting problem. Thanks XRe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoyGlock Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Second Post today ??? I have a C-More STS on my Open Glock 17 and on 2 or 3 occasions I've had to re-zero the sight- was shooting to left(if I remember correctly) A week back it happened again!!! On close inspection/checking, I found that one of the 2 locking screws/bolts was a teeny bit loose.I had blue loctited it originally, so I "redid" both bolts with blue loctite, went to range and re-zeroed. Have not shot a match since to give it a real test.9mm Open Glocks are a real test of Loctited screws. Just my experience!! Best Regards. STS has only one locking screw afaik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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