Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

1996 Chevy Tahoe - buy as a beater?


Recommended Posts

I'd like to have a beater SUV and can buy a 1996 Tahoe for $1k from a friend. AC doesn't work, 210k miles, otherwise in good mechanical condition - but who knows with that many miles . . .

Opinions appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be a 305 or 350. 700r4 decendent (4l60e). 12 bolt rear.

The motor is so plentiful that you could pick one up in ANY junkyard ANYWHERE in the world. The trans is extremely expensive to replace if it goes down, but if its not a od trans, then its a TH350 and is much cheaper. (both are actually electronically shifted versions of these, but their basically the same). Rearends are fine until they're not, but they are also plentiful.

If it doesn't stink and the interior is in good shape, the rest is easy to find/repair.

Edited by Sethmark
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be a 305 or 350.

The trans is extremely expensive to replace if it goes down, but if its not a od trans, then its a TH350 and is much cheaper. (both are actually electronically shifted versions of these, but their basically the same).

Engine is the 350. Not sure what the tranny is - and that's my fear - the tranny goes out and it costs $2k to repair. Any thoughts?

Also - how much/hard is an AC to replace? Thx.

Edited by chp5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Based on the year, the trans is PROBABLY a 4l60E (electronically shifted 700r4 OD trans). If it goes south, its expensive.... to the tune of about $1500+ for parts plus install. However, virtually every 1/2 ton chebby on the planet uses the same trans. You can ALWAYS risk a junkyard trans.

The nice thing about GM product is that there's TONS of them. Plenty of cores.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably going to need all the usual front end parts (ball joints, tie rods, idler & pitman) - but so will any 1/2ton+ in that price range.

A/C really depends on whats broken. Just a small leak causing the low pressure cut out switch to kill the A/C is about the cheapest to fix (if it's just an o-ring, but that will still cost a few hundred for evac and charge - possibly twice to find the leak), but if it's a locked up clutch or compressor or needs a condenser, then you're talking upwards of $500-$1000.

They are about the cheapest beater SUV to fix - but at that age, it probably will need fixing...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have owned several chevy SUV/Pickup trucks over the years. All I have driven to fairly high milage 150,000 to 200,000 range. Every one had the A/C go at about 120,000 and all cost between $800.00 and $1,200. My current 2500 series silverado has had both the trany go ($1,800) and the A/C ($900.00). I have about 136,000 miles on it and will happily keep it for another 136,000 miles. It is like new otherwise and long ago paid for. If the one you are looking at is in really good shape and has been well maintained I would say go for it. If not I would pass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably going to need all the usual front end parts (ball joints, tie rods, idler & pitman) - but so will any 1/2ton+ in that price range.

I drove it today. It needs an alignment, but otherwise drove great. It's also 4x4 - which I didn't realize. Its' nice to have, but in GA, you don't need 4x4 a lot.

The tranny shifted perfectly and the engine seems solid.

Can you tell if it needs front end parts (ball joints, tie rods, idler & pitman) by driving it? It seemed really solid. Thx.

Edited by chp5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not 100% by driving it, but rather 95% just by it being what it is. Really the only way it won't need them is if the owner just did them within about 30k.

There will be a little bit of slop in the steering wheel as you drive, but you'd have to get the wheels off the ground and shake them around to see what exactly has slop in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not 100% by driving it, but rather 95% just by it being what it is. Really the only way it won't need them is if the owner just did them within about 30k.

There will be a little bit of slop in the steering wheel as you drive, but you'd have to get the wheels off the ground and shake them around to see what exactly has slop in it.

Thanks again Dave. There's no more slop in the steering than in my 2002 Suburban that I just sold and was in great shape.

For $1k, I might just take a chance. Would you do it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can fix anything that might go wrong with that car myself including rebuilding the trans, so I would be very tempted to buy it if I had a need for a beater vehicle.

yes, but I'm less mechanically inclined than you. I do a lot of garage gunsmithing :cheers: , but I don't do heavy lifting work on cars.

Even so, I'm tempted to pull the trigger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not 100% by driving it, but rather 95% just by it being what it is. Really the only way it won't need them is if the owner just did them within about 30k.

There will be a little bit of slop in the steering wheel as you drive, but you'd have to get the wheels off the ground and shake them around to see what exactly has slop in it.

Thanks again Dave. There's no more slop in the steering than in my 2002 Suburban that I just sold and was in great shape.

For $1k, I might just take a chance. Would you do it?

Having owned a lot of $500 - $4000 cars in my time I'd do it --- if i needed a beater. I'd be realistic about it --- this is probably not a vehicle that I'd want to stick lots of money into. I'd rather get rid of it and get another beater than to start fixing/improving one.....

I also wouldn't try to turn it into a daily driver --- unless I was willing to take it on as a rebuild/refurb longtime vehicle with those expectations going in....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the advice. I took it Goodyear and they put it on the lift. It has two busted ball joints (about $500 to fix), multiple small oil leaks and a coolant leak.

Glad I took it. I'm going to pass.

Edited by chp5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the advice. I took it Goodyear and they put it on the lift. It has two busted ball joints (about $500 to fix), multiple small oil leaks and a coolant leak.

Glad I took it. I'm going to pass.

Given that --- sounds like the right decision......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...