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sinnsyk

POLL :: New Trigger... what do you prefer

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We're designing the new trigger these days so your input is helpful to us. Most of the features under #3 will be included, but not sure if we can come up with a good way to do an adjustable trigger position. Another option is to make a few different lengths so what you tell me can determine what I'm making. At least for the first run through.

Edited by sinnsyk

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Flat and short without the need for a slave pin to put the that new, oh so cool trigger in.

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Or a short flat trigger that takes a plastic insert that screws into the flat part of the trigger that comes in varying sizes. Or better yet a kind of plastic blank that fits on the end that you can file away to make it the exact size and shape that you want. Kind of like the SVI trigger insert, but make the part that your finger touches out of delrin or something that is easily shaped by the shooter.

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I see quite an interest still in a curved trigger. I like the though of a trigger "shoe" / "pad" of various sizes and shapes. It may happen and the way to go. We'll see after we get the first trigger done.

The other thing I've thought about, but not added to the poll is lines / checkering or something like it to give the trigger a firm feel. Or should it just be smooth? Post a couple of pros / cons / opinions about it and if it seems to be something to do a poll for I will.

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Not sure about the checkering. If the actual surface of the trigger was smooth then grip tape would stick to it. The factory trigger has a slightly curved face so tape won't stick too well. It might be worth trying a 'grippy' trigger, just to see how to it feels.

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Not sure either. I've mainly shot smooth trigger guns and like then. By the same token the couple of S_Is I handled (don't worry I washed my hands afterwards) with lined triggers felt pretty good also.

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I'll throw my hat in with BritinUSA. I like the idea of a trigger shoe. I would prefer aluminum, but plastic would be fine. The trigger shoe method would cover those who want a longer length of pull or a curved trigger.

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I agree. I will continue with the "shoe" idea and make the trigger as short as possible and add "shoes" or "pads" onto it. I will talk with the CAD designer early next week to see what he has for ideas. What do you guys think; would two attachment screws work? That way the shortest trigger is just the trigger itself, but with two tapped holes that various shapes and lengths can be screwed onto. Or other ideas for attaching it? I'm thinking of keeping it as simple as possible (machining)

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Yep, that is the way I would do it. Also then if you wanted you could also make grooved or checkered face inserts depending on how many variations you want to go with.

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just to throw a wrench in the works, how about a less curved trigger for the DA/SA guns. that little hook at the bottom of the factory trigger sucks.

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I've thought about a D/A trigger that would actually feel good. Rob, can you check what the production rules are and if you're even allowed to switch the trigger out? Either way, it may have to be designed as a separate trigger because of a much larger movement.

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I agree. I will continue with the "shoe" idea and make the trigger as short as possible and add "shoes" or "pads" onto it. I will talk with the CAD designer early next week to see what he has for ideas. What do you guys think; would two attachment screws work? That way the shortest trigger is just the trigger itself, but with two tapped holes that various shapes and lengths can be screwed onto. Or other ideas for attaching it? I'm thinking of keeping it as simple as possible (machining)

I used to play tournament paintball and one very popular type of gun used a trigger shoe. It was VERY simple. The trigger itself was flat one the sides. The shoe was a little wider than the trigger and was slotted so the trigger rested just inside the slot. The shoe had two set screws in the side. One you locked both of those screws, they were very secure. If you wanted to run the gun with no shoe, no problem and no hole in the trigger. There were all manner of different trigger shoes. From smooth to textured and in all different colors. It was a pretty good system.

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That's a great idea Jason. I do want to make the width of the trigger quite a bit smaller than the width of the trigger guard. Reason for this is to make the trigger super-safe. For those who know... I have good reasons for super-safing it, ha ha.

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Henning, how about making the standard flat trigger like the P9's had available in a slightly shorter length of pull then the current to satisfy those with short hands. Then make a "sleeve" type of pad that can slide over and be retained with a set screw. This sleeve would be delrin/plastic so it could be filed to any shape/length/finish etc... That way it would keep the regular trigger easy to make while still allowing customization by others.

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Josh. Thanks for the input. I will look at a sleeve type solution using a set scrwe along with various forms of screw-on pads. I think both a delrin and aluminum pads / sleeves can be viable options. I will discuss it with my designer and then figure out with my machinist what will be the best way to manufacture it. These pads will be pretty small and they need to be reasonably quick to machine. It may also be that this will be a step-by-step project where I come out with a short trigger to start and continue to develop from this platform into a fully adjustable length system.

Please bring me as many ideas as possible, I really do appreciate them and all inputs here are thrown into the brewing kettle.. We want to come up with something that'll satisfy all our different needs.

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Just a couple of thoughts - I'd love a long reach flat trigger. Make it minimalist as possible. Pretty colors could be neat. For a surface, maybe just do a really coarse bead blast (that would provide some grip, but the user could easily polish it up for a smooth feel or for better adherence of grip tape). As far as adjustment screws - how often do folks adjust them? I didn't think the stock locations were that bad - just needed a Bondhus head wrench to get at the pretravel.

The idea of a shoe seem a bit scary to me. More stuff to go wrong. What about making the bottom half of the trigger able to slide (like some Browning shotguns)? If you can only do one design, maybe keep it factory-ish in length. If you can do 2 or 3, maybe offer a short and a long.

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I may be way late on this but a trigger that doesn't wobble side to side is almost critical to a quick reset. Made a set of shims for mine and it was a world of difference! The down side was the shims had to tapper and it was a bitch to make them, but WELL WORTH the time invested. I was able to get about 13 though out of the reset distance and it now feels like a 1911 for the reset. droped a 1/4 lb. in trigger pull also! Hell make the darn thing slightly OVER SIZED so we can stone them down to fit individual frames! Polished out My mag well AND inside of the frame as well and now the thing practically loads it'sself! KurtM

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I may be way late on this but a trigger that doesn't wobble side to side is almost critical to a quick reset. Made a set of shims for mine and it was a world of difference! The down side was the shims had to tapper and it was a bitch to make them, but WELL WORTH the time invested. I was able to get about 13 though out of the reset distance and it now feels like a 1911 for the reset. droped a 1/4 lb. in trigger pull also! Hell make the darn thing slightly OVER SIZED so we can stone them down to fit individual frames! Polished out My mag well AND inside of the frame as well and now the thing practically loads it'sself! KurtM

I also shimmed out the trigger on my Limited, and it DOES make a HUGE difference on the feel of the trigger. I used a bronze washer that I sandwiched between the trigger and the frame. Took some time to get it in but totally worth it.

TRIGGER-1.jpg

I already have been messing around with the trigger!!

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no of course for PD rules, we can't swap it out, but it would be one of those things that we'd work on Tanfoglio carrying!!!!!! (yeah I know)

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I may be way late on this but a trigger that doesn't wobble side to side is almost critical to a quick reset. Made a set of shims for mine and it was a world of difference! The down side was the shims had to tapper and it was a bitch to make them, but WELL WORTH the time invested. I was able to get about 13 though out of the reset distance and it now feels like a 1911 for the reset. droped a 1/4 lb. in trigger pull also! Hell make the darn thing slightly OVER SIZED so we can stone them down to fit individual frames! Polished out My mag well AND inside of the frame as well and now the thing practically loads it'sself! KurtM

This is a great idea and I wish that I had thought of it years ago. But I don't see how this is goingn to have anything other than a minor effect on the trigger reset unless the trigger reset has changed dramatically since I bought my EAA in the mid 90's. Has there been a change in the design that has resulted in a major reduction in the reset?

I got a great trigger job on mine, but still had the usual 4-times the reset travel compared to any of the 2011-style triggers. I created drawings, and then modified one of the parts of the firing mechanism, and now have exactly the same type of reset as a nice 1911/2011. Shimming the trigger and eliminating the wobble will make it nicer still...icing on the cake! Thanks for the good stuff!

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If the trigger bow doesnt sit square to the sear face it takes extra travel to clear the sear leg that hits the trigger bow in order to reset. By shimming the trigger you esentially "squaring" the trigger bow, or at least making it consistent to the sear leg. If it rocks at all it can requier .10 extra travel and since it is a pivot type trigger setup this translates to allot more travel of the trigger. Also if the trigger bow is "square" to the sear leg it doesn't exert any side load on the sear making trigger weight drop. Hope that helpd clear up what I posted. KurtM

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If the trigger bow doesnt sit square to the sear face it takes extra travel to clear the sear leg that hits the trigger bow in order to reset. By shimming the trigger you esentially "squaring" the trigger bow, or at least making it consistent to the sear leg. If it rocks at all it can requier .10 extra travel and since it is a pivot type trigger setup this translates to allot more travel of the trigger. Also if the trigger bow is "square" to the sear leg it doesn't exert any side load on the sear making trigger weight drop. Hope that helpd clear up what I posted. KurtM

Definitely! Thanks for the clarification. I cannot wait to see what my trigger will be like once I add this extra bit of tuning to the trigger. Thanks again!

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