Limited Set-Up

[bobobooie]

I recently posted a HELP about the sear spring and received great assistance from all of you. I did read one post where someone had mentioned a new topic of how the pros set up their Limiteds. I though I'd ask and hope that you would take the time to respond.

I have a small click in the trigger when I'm taking up the slack and I can adjust it out with the pre-travel adjustment, but then the hammer does not fall when the slide is back on. That brings me to the reason for this topic.

How do you guys set your guns up? What do you adjust first and how. Any tricks you use? Step by step, what would you do with a brand new gun?

Thanks for any response.

Paul

[R.Elliott]

I recently posted a HELP about the sear spring and received great assistance from all of you. I did read one post where someone had mentioned a new topic of how the pros set up their Limiteds. I though I'd ask and hope that you would take the time to respond.

I have a small click in the trigger when I'm taking up the slack and I can adjust it out with the pre-travel adjustment, but then the hammer does not fall when the slide is back on. That brings me to the reason for this topic.

How do you guys set your guns up? What do you adjust first and how. Any tricks you use? Step by step, what would you do with a brand new gun?

Thanks for any response.

Paul

This sounds like it isn't so much an adjustment issue, but more of a trigger job issue. Probably not something you want to mess with on your own, so I would look for a smith who knows these guns. There are a few on this forum.

[Big Bear]

I'm not a pro by any means but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

Having gone through this recently I would tell you to get in touch with Henning, order the prepped sear and hammer he offers with springs .

I also had a site that showed the polishing of the trigger transfer bar but I can't find it right now, but if you follow Hennings video on disassembly and polish the outside of the Transfer Bar and the inside of the Frame where they contact it will help.

Also I found this site helpful on polish points.

http://www.savvysurvivor.com/tanfoglio_wit...gunsmithing.htm

Polish what he shows and put in the new sear and hammer. Mine works GREAT.

Let me know if it works for you, or if you find something else.

Edited September 24, 2008 by Big Bear

[R.Elliott]

polish the outside of the Transfer Bar and the inside of the Frame where they contact it will help.

Polish what he shows and put in the new sear and hammer. Mine works GREAT.

Let me know if it works for you, or if you find something else.

The new sear and hammer is a good idea, but they may still need to be fitted/stoned. As described, the click he is talking about is likely not in the transfer bar. It's probably the sear engagement surface. I'd polish everything, certainly, but I'd look at the sear first.

[bobobooie]

[As described, the click he is talking about is likely not in the transfer bar. It's probably the sear engagement surface. I'd polish everything, certainly, but I'd look at the sear first.

I can adjust that out with the pre-travel, but then have problems with the trigger releasing the engagement and allowing the hammer to fall. This I will figure out o.k. It was meant as an example of things to be avoided if the owner follows a certain format in setting up the gun.

What I hope to learn is WHAT to do to set the gun up? I have watched the videos and read numerous articles and have polished the heck out of the stuff they say to polish. But the question is, what do you adjust first when setting the gun up. Do you first polish, then adjust the springs, then the pre-set, etc... How much is too much? When does one adjustment mess up the other, or does it? I do wish I had a manual for this gun, sort of like the Kuhnhausen book of Tanfoglio. But there isn't one, just you experienced folks.

Paul

[R.Elliott]

can adjust that out with the pre-travel, but then have problems with the trigger releasing the engagement and allowing the hammer to fall. This I will figure out o.k. It was meant as an example of things to be avoided if the owner follows a certain format in setting up the gun.

What I hope to learn is WHAT to do to set the gun up? I have watched the videos and read numerous articles and have polished the heck out of the stuff they say to polish. But the question is, what do you adjust first when setting the gun up. Do you first polish, then adjust the springs, then the pre-set, etc... How much is too much? When does one adjustment mess up the other, or does it? I do wish I had a manual for this gun, sort of like the Kuhnhausen book of Tanfoglio. But there isn't one, just you experienced folks.

Paul

Right, which is why I suggest you have a problem with the sear. The hammer hooks have most likely beaten a small indent into the engagement surface, and that is what you are feeling when you pull the trigger through. Adjusting the pre-travel to the extent you are describing only puts you out further on the sear, and this reduces engagement...and safety. That is also why it won't reliably reset; you're just out of room. Trying to run the gun this close to the edge could result in some unintended shots going off at very high speed, which isn't what you want. The stock sears on these guns tend to be surface hardened only, and the depth of this hardening can vary. Generally they won't stand up to the type of shooting we do for long unless you get lucky and have one that is a) fitted so that the hammer and sear mate exactly with no bias towards the leading edge of the hooks...which is rare from the factory, and/or harder than usual (also rare).

The solution is to have a hardened sear (EGW) installed and tuned by someone who knows how to do it. If you buy the prepped EGW hammer and sear you might get a nice trigger just dropping them in...or at least passable and safe. But likely they will require fitting and tuning to get them right, and Henning mentions this in his ad. Every single one I have seen so far has required work to get a competition ready trigger pull.

The rest of what you're asking is really more about "How to do a trigger and action job," and that would indeed fill a pretty decent chunk of a book to cover it properly. Pre-travel and over-travel aren't really affected by spring pressure though, so just set those dimensions up however you like them to be and leave it at that. If you change out the sear and/or hammer, you will have to adjust them again.

Good luck

R

[bobobooie]

The rest of what you're asking is really more about "How to do a trigger and action job," and that would indeed fill a pretty decent chunk of a book to cover it properly. Pre-travel and over-travel aren't really affected by spring pressure though, so just set those dimensions up however you like them to be and leave it at that. If you change out the sear and/or hammer, you will have to adjust them again.

Good luck

R

Thank you sir. I guess that is what I was asking, in a round a bout manner. What promted this was not the clicking thing I am feeling in my Limited, but a friend who is taking possession of a match model and was asking me what to do first. Pre-travel, over-travel, or does it matter. I had no answer. I printed out many pages of articles and tid bits found here and elsewhere and gave them to him, but never did find an answer. And I sure as heck have no clue as I muddle through it myself. I appreciate your answer.

Paul

[Dave Gundry]

Paul, from my old and limited knowledge, it does not matter.

Pre-travel - you can try to get it as close to no take up as possible, but the Tanfoglios need a bit of pre travel in order to reset properly out of the box.

Over travel - you can dial it all out - just make sure the sear is not dragging on the hammer and the firing pin safety is clearing the FP. The FP can show signs of battering where the safety catches it. When I would get too close, I would also have light strikes cause by the FP safety.

-Dave

[bobobooie]

Paul, from my old and limited knowledge, it does not matter.

Pre-travel - you can try to get it as close to no take up as possible, but the Tanfoglios need a bit of pre travel in order to reset properly out of the box.

Over travel - you can dial it all out - just make sure the sear is not dragging on the hammer and the firing pin safety is clearing the FP. The FP can show signs of battering where the safety catches it. When I would get too close, I would also have light strikes cause by the FP safety.

-Dave

Thanks Dave. I appreciate your thoughts and your taking the time to comment. That does help.