Jeff686 Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 (edited) I dissassembled my Gold Team over the weekend for cleaning. This was the first time since I got it that I did a 'deep clean'. I watched Henning's vidoes several times, then went to work. Everything came apart without trouble, except the extractor pin. I had to really wack that thing hard to get it to move. So hard, I was worried I was doing it wrong. It looks so much easier in Henning's video. Luckily, I didn't totally remove it, just punched it out enough to get the extractor out. Getting it back in was even more difficult. I was afraid to wack it too hard, but also had to worry that the extractor was lined up. I ended up using an allen wrench as a 'blind pin' and things finally went back together with a really hard wack. Should they be this tight? Maybe I'll order a replacement with my next purchase from Henning. I thought about punching it all the way out, then checking for burrs or flaws in the pin and hole. Maybe a little polishing would help. Edited July 8, 2008 by Jeff686 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritinUSA Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 You want this pin as tight as possible, same with all roll pins. As you take the pin in and out it will shrink which is when you need a new tight one to be installed. As long as the extractor can rotate on the pin, it is good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeoHallak Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 I dissassembled my Gold Team over the weekend for cleaning. This was the first time since I got it that I did a 'deep clean'. I watched Henning's vidoes several times, then went to work.Everything came apart without trouble, except the extractor pin. I had to really wack that thing hard to get it to move. So hard, I was worried I was doing it wrong. It looks so much easier in Henning's video. Luckily, I didn't totally remove it, just punched it out enough to get the extractor out. Getting it back in was even more difficult. I was afraid to wack it too hard, but also had to worry that the extractor was lined up. I ended up using an allen wrench as a 'blind pin' and things finally went back together with a really hard wack. Should they be this tight? Maybe I'll order a replacement with my next purchase from Henning. I thought about punching it all the way out, then checking for burrs or flaws in the pin and hole. Maybe a little polishing would help. Usually they aren't that tight. I use real roll pin punches (I think Henning sells them) now so i don't collapse or destroy the pins. I usually drive it down so when i put it back in I dont have to worry about hurting the finish on the pistol. I also only use extra power extractor springs they seem to hold up very well. Leo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UW Mitch Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 My trigger pin was REALLY tight. I was trying to use a little hammer, but was advised a bigger harder hammer and to hit like I mean it - that got it out just right! ~Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 yep,..I just had this and the whole gun apart for cleaning. I found using a punch to line up the extractor and whole from the bottom of the slide made it easier to tap back in.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 yep,..I just had this and the whole gun apart for cleaning. I found using a punch to line up the extractor and whole from the bottom of the slide made it easier to tap back in.. Yup. I punch the pin all the way out with a pin punch, then use the same pin punch as a slave pin to line up the roll pin with the extractor hole. Just keep a little finger tension on the punch as you tap the pin back in from the other side with a brass hammer, and you won't end up having to take all the crap out of your sump pump to find it after it shoots across the room...like I did the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted July 8, 2008 Author Share Posted July 8, 2008 Usually they aren't that tight. I use real roll pin punches (I think Henning sells them) now so i don't collapse or destroy the pins. I usually drive it down so when i put it back in I dont have to worry about hurting the finish on the pistol. I also only use extra power extractor springs they seem to hold up very well.Leo What makes a 'real' roll pin punch different from a 'unreal' punch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeoHallak Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 (edited) Usually they aren't that tight. I use real roll pin punches (I think Henning sells them) now so i don't collapse or destroy the pins. I usually drive it down so when i put it back in I dont have to worry about hurting the finish on the pistol. I also only use extra power extractor springs they seem to hold up very well.Leo What makes a 'real' roll pin punch different from a 'unreal' punch? a roll pin punch has a nub on the end and it doesnt collapse spiral roll pins. a normal punch is just flat and can mess up roll pins easier, and thats what most people use.. the roll pin punch is the correct tool for the job. leo Edited July 9, 2008 by LeoHallak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirty whiteboy Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Cleaned the upper on my Limited for the first time today. My thumbs are going to have to toughen up!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neomet Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Timely post. first time I did this it was a breeze. Second time I was freakin' out a bit because I couldn't tell if I was driving the pin through or if it was banging against the extractor. The brain finally went into gear and I used the punch as a slave pin and it went really smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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