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Para P-14 trigger job!


ghost21

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Hey guys,

Just need a little advice! I just got a new para P-14 hi-cap 1911. And I was wondering if anyone could tell me , What would be the easiest and simplest way to do a home trigger job on it. The trigger pull is a little heavy for me and I would like to lighting it up a bit. Would changing mainsprings and firing pin springs do the trick? If so what would be the best brand/make.

Thanks

jeff

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you can either get instruction or a manual the proper jig and stones and teach yourself, screwing up quite a bit along the way, pay someone else to do it, or go for one of the complete drop in kits. Going to a lighter mainspring ( dont mess with firing pin spring) will only lighten the trigger a small amount. Personally since I now have the tools and skill I would remove the series 80 parts, put the spacer in the frame to convert it to 70 series design, order a 17lb mainspring, titanium hammer strut and tool steel sear and hammer of whatever design struck my fancy. If this is probably a one time deal for you order a under travel, over travel adjustable trigger and take it to a smith and ask him to change the hammer and sear and do a trigger job.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you REALLY want to do it yourself, I suggest getting a Dawson or Cylinder and Slide drop in kit. Each contains a hammer, sear, disconnecter, mainspring and leaf spring. Add a hammer strut and pin and you are good to go. If your P14 has the series 80 type firing pin safety I would add the C&S TIN coated Series 80 trigger pull reduction kit also. If you do this, have a REAL gunsmith do a safety check. As Joe said, leave the firing pin spring alone. It has nothing to do with your trigger 'pull'.

Blessed Be

SharonAnne

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It is a dark art practiced by gun smiths while no-one is watching. Personally I would rather remove my appendix myself than work on guns trigger, I think it is safer and easier. You have to understand exactly how the parts interact with each other and the frame. Frankly, I would just pay a gunsmith to do it as it works out cheaper as by doing it yourself you may end up paying a smith to replace all the ruined parts plus his labor.

Unfortunately in my case DIY stands for Destroy It Yourself.

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Jeff,

I shoot para-based pistols and I can tell you what I have learned over the years. Things can be done to the stock parts to improve the trigger but they probably won't last all that long. Quality parts have lasted for at least 30K rounds for me. As to how long the stock parts last? I dunno since I believe my gunsmith and I got replacement C&S parts. The sear spring slot in the frame of the para is a bit lower than the standard 1911 so the spring in the drop-in kit may not fit correctly. As you go lighter in trigger force, everything becomes more critical such as pin hole diameter and alignment. If you have something too loose or crooked, you can have a poor-man's machine pistol on your hands.

One thing you can do is take out the series 80 crap and get one of these spacers to keep the sear in line. You should loose about 1/2 pound force from that.

You certainly could do some other stuff and have some success DIY but only time will tell. I really think the gunsmith route it the way to go for this part. You know why they call them "drop-in" parts, don't you? You buy them. put them in yourself, screw around trying to get them working and then you finally go "drop in" on your gunsmith. :rolleyes:

Good luck,

Chuck

Edited by ChuckS
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  • 2 weeks later...

Don't waste your time trying to improve the pull with the Para hammer and sear in the gun. Toss the Series '80 safety parts and install the spacer. Then get a drop-in kit and also replace the mainspring. Tweaking the sear spring is the last step.

I ended up with a 2 lb. pull that has lasted for 20k plus rds.

Paul

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  • 1 month later...

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