Accuracy with a revolver

[Revopop]

I shot a steel match for the first time tonight, and I used a recently acquired 625. I've shot about 400 rounds through this gun, but this was the first time I'd competed with it. Anyway, my accuracy was pretty weak, and the steel targets were of course unforgiving. I'm at a point in my life now where I have the time and means to actually practice regularly, and I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or drills to help me build consistent accuracy. It seems that shooting the revolver has greatly helped my accuracy with autos, but I'd really like to be proficient with any gun I pick up.

[spook]

Dryfire is one of those things twhere a revolver really shines. The DA pull will stay the sam from shot to shot.

Play around with different ways of pulling the trigger. Eventually, you want to be able to pull the trigger any which way and not disturb the sight picture.

[oldtrooper]

Be consistant. For accuracy focus on the front sight and once you start the trigger moving in double action mode don't stop until the revolver fires. You don't want to anticipate the revolver firing. The trigger break needs to be a suprise break. Keep the sight picture squared away but learn to accept a little wobble as you roll the trigger through the only way to eliminate all wobble is to be braced and fireing single action. Experiment with different positions for the trigger finger on the trigger to find the one that causes the least disturbance in the sight picture.

[Jman]

Live fire practice with one or two cylinders empty. I promise you will see why your accuracy suffers some. Stay with this routine until your gun stays completely motionless through the break.

Jim M

[Jeff686]

I agree with the dry firing.

Knowing how your trigger feels and where it breaks can greatly increase your accuracy.

I see a lot of revolver shooters (and DA production shooters) that don't understand their trigger very well. The get their sights on target, and then squeeze, trying to keep the sights steady until the gun goes off. That takes a lot of skill and muscle control.

For accuracy, it is best if you can pull most of the double action without being overly concerned for the exact placement of your sights. Then, as you know when your trigger is about to break, you can get the sights on target and complete the pull.

I started practicing this in a very slow and methodical manner. I pulled the trigger, and tried to stop the pull right before the hammer drop and hold for a second, then complete the pull. I slowly decreased my hold time, but tried to keep the final hammer break at a consistant spot. Eventually, I became very familiar with the trigger feel, and was able to drop the hammer at the exact momemt I wanted by feel and varying my timing.

I don't know what Jerry M would think of my technique, but it really improved my accuracy and speed. When shooting pins (full 357 load), I had a nice rhythm that complimented my trigger pull. After the recoil from each shot, as the gun came back down on the next target, I would begin to take up the trigger. This means I started squeezing witht he sights a good foot over the pin. However, as the sights dropped I reached the end of the trigger travel, and was able to break the shot just as the sights came on target.

A similar thing happens when shooting IPSC. The loads are lighter and I don't have the same great timing since the recoil is less. However, the idea of taking up the trigger before getting on target is still valid. As I transition from target to target, I start pulling the trigger before I see the sight on the target. If it is a long transition, I can 'hold' for a moment before breaking the shot.

The draw is the same. As soon as the gun reaches my chest, and both hands get on it, I start the squeeze. As I push the gun out from my chest and into my field of vision the hammer is already moving. I can break my shot as soon as I see a good sight picture.

I guess, if can summarize, I view the pull in two parts, takeup and break. By being intimately familiar with the feel of both, you have a lot more flexability to increase your speed and accuracy.

[Viggen]

Go the direct feedback method. Don't talk about it.

Set you a target up at 25 - 50 yards and proceed to slowly learn to shoot groups.

At first it may not go so well, something like a basic shotgun pattern is the likely outcome.

After shooting and taping the holes from a few cylinders of 45 you will notice that the shotgun pattern will begin to tighten up. You may/should begin to focus on the basics as you make a shot.

Shooting groups makes for humility and future performance. It's hard.

[Allgoodhits]

Shooting DA with a revolver is a challenge. Trigger pull weight does not matter as much as "smoothness" of trigger DA action. A trigger job for DA may help.

1. Once you commit to the DA stroke, keep the trigger moving

2. Causing the hammer to fall without disrupting sight alignment is only done with proper (effective) trigger control. Trigger finger placement on trigger, dictates the grip and not the other way around.

3. If all else fails, watch the front sight. Dryfire on plain white background, until you learn to permit the hammer to fall without the sight alignment (light space between front sight and notch) changing.

Something I tell people who are haviing difficulty grasping the "concept" of trigger control is this. Working the trigger DA is akin to trying to accelerate from stand still with you car, while sitting on ice. It can be done, but it is easy to cause a loss of control. Easy gradual pedal pressure with smooth acceleration is the key. With more practice this to can be done. Similar to a "launch" in drag racing, excessive spin is a loss of control and ineffective.

Shooting SA may be akin to applying brakes on ice. To much and you loose control. Constant smooth pressure that is just enough will not cause lock up and loss of control. For the younger crowd, this would be "before" the anti-lock brakes kick in too.

Learn to control the trigger and your shooting of any handgun will improve. The trigger is the eraser. All properly executed fundamentals of a perfect shot willl be "removed" with poor trigger control. It is that important!

Good luck,

Martin

PPC Distinguished and PPC 1490 Club (Revolver)

Bianchi Cup type match in NJ, 1918 (Revolver)

Edited April 24, 2008 by Allgoodhits

[Revopop]

Thanks for all the help, guys. I've actually been shooting USPSA and a little IDPA for a few years, but I've reached the point where it's more than just fun and I really want to improve. I now have the time, means, and inclination to actively work on improvement. I grasp the concept of trigger control, I just haven't really put in the time to actually get good at it. Now that I'm shooting more, both in matches and practice, I'm discovering my many limitations, although I did have 2(out of 12) very good runs at the steel match. I also just finished reading Brian's book, which was incredibly illuminating, and I'm steadily improving just from reading it then going to the range. Also, the 625 I just got is fully Carmonized, so now I can't use my equipment as a mental excuse for my poor perfomance.

[chirpy]

I don't know where I heard this but someone said to put a coin on the barrel and dry fire single and double action until you can keep the coin on the barrel. Never tried it...never had an acuracy problem.

[David Sinko]

I would not experiment with different ways to pull the trigger. Find a good set of stocks that allows for a high hold and placement of the pad of the finger (not the crease) on the trigger. This is the best way to shoot the revolver DA, so even if it feels uncomfortable or weak at first just stick with it. Dry fire a lot, and then dry fire more. I use my department issued DA auto to save wear on my revolvers. You need to develop the strength in your hands and fingers and then you will see a dramatic improvement.

Dave Sinko

[oldtrooper]

I don't know where I heard this but someone said to put a coin on the barrel and dry fire single and double action until you can keep the coin on the barrel. Never tried it...never had an acuracy problem.

That's an old trick from the days when the revolver was king. Bullseye shooters and PPC shooters would put a small coin on the front sight dry fire until they could keep the coin on the sight. It was usually a flat top patridge type front sight.

[Revopop]

I don't know where I heard this but someone said to put a coin on the barrel and dry fire single and double action until you can keep the coin on the barrel. Never tried it...never had an acuracy problem.

That's an old trick from the days when the revolver was king. Bullseye shooters and PPC shooters would put a small coin on the front sight dry fire until they could keep the coin on the sight. It was usually a flat top patridge type front sight.

I did have good results doing this with my Glock when I first started. I hadn't thought to do this with the revolver. I'll try it out.

[Allgoodhits]

I don't know where I heard this but someone said to put a coin on the barrel and dry fire single and double action until you can keep the coin on the barrel. Never tried it...never had an acuracy problem.

That's an old trick from the days when the revolver was king. Bullseye shooters and PPC shooters would put a small coin on the front sight dry fire until they could keep the coin on the sight. It was usually a flat top patridge type front sight.

I heard Old Trooper would use a nickel balanced on his front sight of his HB M10. The coin was standing on edge.

Martin

p.s. I would use a dime balance on edge of my M36.............It was hard to see the front sight with all that duct tape holding the coin in place. If they only had Super Glue back then.

Edited April 26, 2008 by Allgoodhits

[Matt Griffin]

Just dryfire. Lots and lots of dryfire. There's nothing different about how a revolver fires AFTER you pull the tirgger, it's just a lot different DURING the trigger pull. Wear that sucker out in the basement. Also, if you're shooting the factory trigger, there's a lot of room for improvement there, and it does make a difference.

H.

[oldtrooper]

I don't know where I heard this but someone said to put a coin on the barrel and dry fire single and double action until you can keep the coin on the barrel. Never tried it...never had an acuracy problem.

That's an old trick from the days when the revolver was king. Bullseye shooters and PPC shooters would put a small coin on the front sight dry fire until they could keep the coin on the sight. It was usually a flat top patridge type front sight.

I heard Old Trooper would use a nickel balanced on his front sight of his HB M10. The coin was standing on edge.

Martin

p.s. I would use a dime balance on edge of my M36.............It was hard to see the front sight with all that duct tape holding the coin in place. If they only had Super Glue back then.

Don't spread it too thick Martin. I do remember it falling off a lot.

Kevin and company competed in the Magnolia Cup today and Kevin won again. I don't have the sheet in front of me but I believe it was 1912-140 something X count.

[Revopop]

I shot my first USPSA match with the 625 today, and it was awesome! That dryfire sure helped. I actually shot more accurately than I probably ever have. It just felt right. Now I'm wondering if mastering a revolver is going to make me a more accurate auto shooter.