Crimp die for lead bullets

[Throwin Lead]

Which crimp die is the better choice for use when loading lead bullets - the Dillon taper die or the Lee factory crimp die?

I have been using the Lee factory crimp die and don't see any problems so far. The crimp is at .422 (40SW) and the loads chrono with good results. I haven't used the Dillon crimp die to compare. Any thoughts?

[yoshidaex]

I've used both but currently utilize the Lee die. The dillon die worked fine when adjusted properly but I ended up with completed rounds that didn't case gauge properly. I later found out the bullets I was using didn't measure out to the advertised .401

I think they both work fine and you won't go wrong using either one.

[HSMITH]

Be careful with the FCD on lead. It will swage the bullet down inside the case, the lead doesn't spring back at all and the brass does. You can and will lower case tension doing this, and can have setback problems. Setback can cause serious problems, up to blowing your gun up.

I firmly believe in standard crimp dies for lead bullets.

[Throwin Lead]

Be careful with the FCD on lead. It will swage the bullet down inside the case, the lead doesn't spring back at all and the brass does. You can and will lower case tension doing this, and can have setback problems. Setback can cause serious problems, up to blowing your gun up.

I firmly believe in standard crimp dies for lead bullets.

Thanks for the heads up! If the OAL is consistent with what I'm expecting + .001 using the FCD then this should be a non issue?

[HSMITH]

Nope, OAL isn't the measure we need. Find out how much pressure it takes to seat the bullet deeper on a taper crimped (appropriately crimped) round VS one that the FCD has crimped. That is the only way to quantify what is going on.

[el pres]

Nope, OAL isn't the measure we need. Find out how much pressure it takes to seat the bullet deeper on a taper crimped (appropriately crimped) round VS one that the FCD has crimped. That is the only way to quantify what is going on.

Can you elaberate please ... I use the same set-up as of this week.

Funny how many lead bullet questions are on the forum right now (I wonder why $$$$)

For us younger guys that have only shot and loaded FMJ's we need a lead loading FAQ about what to do differently

and what are the safe handling techniques.

[HSMITH]

The easy way is to put a round in your kinetic bullet puller backwards and use it to press against the bathroom scale. I want to see at least 50 pounds of pressure before the bullet moves.

Just a simple test with things almost everyone has on hand.....

[Intel6]

With lead I use a regular roll or taper crimp. I only use the FCD with Jacketed bullets.

Neal in AZ

[DougCarden]

I guess I am the odd man out, and I hate disagreeing with Howard!.......

I use the FCD exclusively on lead bullets due to their sometimes less than perfect shape. That is from using a multitude of suppliers. When I use the FCD on lead, which I use for local matches and practice, I dont have to chamber check them. They will fit in the chamber, period. Now, I may have one that had a buggered up piece of brass or something, and not chamber but it wouldnt chamber in any gun, but that is my QC issue, and not yours...... .

I tried testing with the FCD and the Dillon die at 50yds....no difference in groups at all, so in my experience I dont think it does any harm when used properly.

Having said that, if you OVERCRIMP with the FCD, you will have exactly the problem that Howard talked about and it will ruin your day, period. If you understand that with the taper crimp all you do is remove the belling of the case and not lock the case down like the roll crimp on the Revo rounds, you should get by just fine.

I find that with jacketed bullets I dont use the FCD, because I dont need it.

This is what works for me, and I hope it helps a little bit.

Good luck,

DougC

[degenerate023]

i just switched over to the Lee FCD on my 550....ive been having case bulging problems in my 200swc and 230rn moly coated .45acp....i havent had any setback problems but i also dont use a radical crimp....about 99.75% of my cartridges now pass the chamber guage tho(used to be 1 in 25) do to the resizer in the FCD tho...i believe....but im still new to the game myself

[Throwin Lead]

I guess I am the odd man out, and I hate disagreeing with Howard!.......

I use the FCD exclusively on lead bullets due to their sometimes less than perfect shape. That is from using a multitude of suppliers. When I use the FCD on lead, which I use for local matches and practice, I dont have to chamber check them. They will fit in the chamber, period. Now, I may have one that had a buggered up piece of brass or something, and not chamber but it wouldnt chamber in any gun, but that is my QC issue, and not yours...... .

I tried testing with the FCD and the Dillon die at 50yds....no difference in groups at all, so in my experience I dont think it does any harm when used properly.

Having said that, if you OVERCRIMP with the FCD, you will have exactly the problem that Howard talked about and it will ruin your day, period. If you understand that with the taper crimp all you do is remove the belling of the case and not lock the case down like the roll crimp on the Revo rounds, you should get by just fine.

I find that with jacketed bullets I dont use the FCD, because I dont need it.

This is what works for me, and I hope it helps a little bit.

Good luck,

DougC

Can yo define OVERCRIMP? I use a Hornady adjustable seating die (poor man's Redding comp seater) to seat the bullet squarely to the case & the FCD to crimp. The crimp is 0.422 which seems to be in spec for 40 SW. I like the FCD for the resizing capability. Since using it I have not had any case gauge issues.

So is 0.422 crimp too much? It looks like it is flat to the bullet and not rolled/beveled into the bullet.

[DougCarden]

Here is a pretty scientific way to check taper crimp........ Size a case, then bell it, then adjust the crimp down until it is the same measurement as the sized case mouth. That will get you really close.

Another way is to adjust the crimp down while holding the round up to a wall and watching the case mouth become flat. You can then run your finger along the case and not feel the rough edge and it will be damn close.

Once you figure out what works well for your gun and accuracy combo you will be able to do it by looking at the case and feeling it as well.

Now, for jacketed I make a dummy round up and increase the crimp until I see a faint line on the bullet. NOT a crease, but a faint line. Then I am done.

Hope this is helpful

See ya,

DougC

[el pres]

I just started to load Precision bullets and had to pull a couple (Glock bulge), I

use the FCD and noticed only a hairline on each bullet but the coating does not look

broken. Would that be too much for lead (crimp @ .442) ??

[DougCarden]

I am thinking that you meant .422 instead of .442? I just loaded up 7K of lead 180s and used mixed brass. I set my FCD at .420-.421, depending on the brass and all the rounds case gauge and fit into my Schuman barrel, so if your gun likes that you should be fine.

DougC