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Flatten and Serrate Top of Slide


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I have finally got my Kimber where i want it - minus Flattening And Serrating the Top of Slide to 30 or 40 LPI - and of course refinnnishing. Done most of it myself. But I dont dare try the Flatten And Serrate Top Of Slide to 40 LPI.

Besides refinnishing; should i be aware of anything else when shopping for a smith?

Can flattening change the performance of the pistol?

Should i not flatten and just serrate? I like the flat look, but it is a shooter - it is 100% reliable ~ It must stay that way.

I assume that the slide will be lighter...is that an issue? Performance?

I am seeing prices between $90-$150 - that about right?

Which is better 30 or 40 lpi?

What am i missing? Make me smart ~ Please.

By the way, My Kimber frame and S&A Magwell don't like cold blue...Slide and other small parts darken right away...i always heat the parts...hot hot hot...what's up with that?

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Flattening and serrating the top of the slide will not alter performance if done correctly. The weight change in negligible. You just want to get someone to do the work who knows how much material to remove. It is mainly cosmetic. I am assuming since you mention Kimber that it already has sight cuts. To flatten and serrate the entire top of the slide the front sight dovetail will need to be recut and a new oversize front sight fitted. You may want to consider flattening/serrating just shy of the front sight and leave the front sight alone. In my opinion 40 lpi looks better than 30, but it is a personal preference. You will need to pick your smith (several very good ones advertise in the dealer section here) and get a final price but you are in the ball park for just the flatteing and serrating, the front sight change will add to the bill. Welcome to the forum.

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Thanks for the info. What you say makes sense. I love the point of aim of the pistol, would really not want to mess with new sights. I think i understand what you mean about "stopping just shy of the front sight and leave the front sight alone". Do you know where i can see that in application...a picture???? Website maybe. Yes agree about a quality smith...I will spare no expense. I love this gun.

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Correct me if I'm wrong but if the slide already has a dovetail cut for the front sight and you flattop the slide you cannot cut the dovetail deeper to keep the sight base flush with the new flattop of the slide. I believe the original dovetail will have to be welded up and recut. You can cut a flat on the slide that matches the depth of the top of the existing front sight base but I don't believe it will be a very wide flat.

Serrations are mostly decorative but some folks believe they will kill any glare caused by sunlight that is refleced off the top of the slide and disturbes the shooters sight picture.



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What you might consider instead of flat/serrate. Is to have a smith "snake belly" the top of the slide

and maybe cut some flutes along side the snake belly. By doing that you will not have to change either

of your sight cuts and the top of the slide will look really cool. One of the best smiths I've seen do that

type of work is Rich Dettelhouser at Canyon Creek. He's listed on this website. I believe he has some

guns in his picture/custom section of his website that have been snake bellied.

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Thanks for all the great help. I would like to add a few thoughts on my intended Flattening and serration project.

Number One: I shoot “Single Stack” in IPSC, so I will not modify the pistol outside of that class of pistol.

Number Two: I want my pistol to have every functional advantage possible (believe me – I need that – I am not very good, and I do not have a lot of time to practice). I have handled several weapons with serrated barrels and slides and I truly believe when firing in sun light the serration helps the shooter acquire targets. Even my shotgun has serrations down the rib.

Number Three: Traditional. I like the “Classic Look” of the 1911, and do not want to stray too far from the original look. And yes my KImber has front cocking serrations on the slide, and I struggled with that – but I am glad that I have them as I use the serrations when I “Press Check”. When I was a kid, my uncle let me hold my first 1911; I don’t remember how old I was, but I remember that pistol. It was a beautiful Gold Cup, and it had a Flat-Top and thin serrations all the way down the slide. So to me, it is “traditional and nostalgic” to have the Flat Top and Serrations.

z40apc, Blindhogg was a great source - wow that guy does a great job illustrating his craft.

Sparky, Thanks for the info on “Rich” @ www.canyoncreekcustom.com. Wow, he has a wonderful website. He sure looks like an excellent craftsman. The “Snake Belly” is surely a distinctive look. But, I have handled a 1911 with similar perpendicular cuts across the top of the slide and it is not for me. It almost seemed to collect light in each of the groves and distracted my eye (it was a stainless gun and mine is black, so maybe it would not be so bad). That said; I think that lines that are parallel with the barrel are the best for me. Besides…my traditional look “requirement” would be violated (my uncles gun).

North, the picture that you have attached gives me an excellent reference / example of “flatten and stopping short of the front sight”. Yes, that is a great help. It does not look too radical. I am wondering if the rear sight would be a problem or have to be cut similarly?

Bob, I could not see your attached pictures. I went to your website and I was unable to find the picture or example of flattening. Do you have an alternative method of showing me the example?

Finally, thank you for all the help. I would like to encourage more help/info and advice. It is great to learn from the experts.

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