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corrosion in barrel


rvb

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A good friend recently acquired a Colt 1911A1 marked US Govt and "Released British Govt 1952." It belonged to a friend of his who had been overseas a lot back in the day. The gun has been neglected for probably several decades. Rust was everywhere internally although the finish has held up really well. The slide looks great as does the frame for the most part, but corrosion had piled in making it difficult to remove the mag release and the safety and slide stop plungers were frozen in the plunger tube to the point that I broke two punches trying to get the plungers out and finally had to give and remove the tube. So that's no big deal, I can put in a new tube and plungers/spring easy enough and I think I'll have the gun back in good shape for him. All lugs look good, mechanically I think it's good to go.

The only thing I'm worried about is there is a fair amount of corrosion in the barrel. I tried taking a couple pictures with my point-n-shoot dig camera. If it were mine and it wasn't a collector piece, I'd load some low powered ammo and go see what it'd do... since it belongs to my bud and not something I want to risk damaging, can you give me an idea if I should tell him it's safe to fire?

The rifling is plenty evident, and the bore looks better towards the muzzle.

Here are the best pictures I could do....

... pic 1 removed, pretty useless

post-6093-1202173459.jpg

edited to add another picture:

post-6093-1202186262.jpg

Thanks!

-rvb

Edited by rvb
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The pics are a little too small to see a lot

If the rust is surface...brush it out and shoot

It would have to be real deep to cause any structural damage.

I have seen old rifle bores that looked just terrible!!...and still shot ok

Nice piece of history :cheers:

Jim

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Thanks Jim!

btw, did you click on the pictures to make them bigger?

They still don't show much, I know.

I've worked on cleaning it out for two days now. I've really improved it, soaking/brushing/repeat. But there is still some I cannot get out.

-rvb

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A quick pass with a bead blaster will get it out ...but stay off the remaining blueing on the outside of the barrel.

The percentage of original finish (blueing) has a large impact on the value.

The rust is most likely the result of corrosive ammo and no cleaning..followed by long term storage, very common in old military guns

Jim :)

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A quick pass with a bead blaster will get it out ...but stay off the remaining blueing on the outside of the barrel.

The percentage of original finish (blueing) has a large impact on the value.

The rust is most likely the result of corrosive ammo and no cleaning..followed by long term storage, very common in old military guns

Jim :)

excellent advice! media recommendation?

Yea, I've been REAL careful of the finish. So far so good, even pulling the plunger tube (with the detents frozen in there, I couldn't do Kuhnhausen's wire pull trick and had to be real careful w/ the vise grips. Kinda nerve racking. Was real careful w/ the ball cutter taking out the crimp too).

-rvb

Edited by rvb
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and show us PICS of the firearm :cheers:

Jim

+1

I have a K98 Mauser from WWII that the bore looks as grey as pot metal and there is hardly any

distinction between the lands and grooves. It still shoots a 6" group at 100 with really bad ammo...

Scrubed the bore even with flitz, no change... :D

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and show us PICS of the firearm :cheers:

Jim

+1

I have a K98 Mauser from WWII that the bore looks as grey as pot metal and there is hardly any

distinction between the lands and grooves. It still shoots a 6" group at 100 with really bad ammo...

Scrubed the bore even with flitz, no change... :D

Now we know where your user name came from!

The flitz thing reminded me I have some JB around here I use for lapping compound... might give that a try, too.

-rvb

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You need to get the stuff that will come off when you fire it out of that bore before you shoot it, or it could go bad. The barrel actually expands and contracts with the pressure of firing, that will loosen the debris that is in the barrel. I would soak it in Kroil for a couple days, wear out a couple bore brushes, and repeat at least one more time. It looks BAD right now, but the rust swells up and when you get it all out the bore might not be as bad as it looks. Skip the JB until you get the rust out and then don't get too frisky with the JB, it isn't going to help much if at all. Get the loose crap out and see what it looks like/

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Now we know where your user name came from!

The flitz thing reminded me I have some JB around here I use for lapping compound... might give that a try, too.

-rvb

Now you know my secret, Already done the JB. Good stuff but there is so much cr3p in there I'm afraid of

removing that much "stuff". Good pic!!

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Just remember that the British used a different cartridge than the .45ACP. It was something like a .455 Webley and had a small rim. The cartridges are similar but not identical. Please make very sure that you use the correct cartridge as you just might have a huge problem with head-spacing and accuracy. The british cartridge was even lower powered than the ACP. I bought one of these British contract barrels a while ago not knowing about the difference and it simply did not work. The most obvious difference is in the magazines.

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Just remember that the British used a different cartridge than the .45ACP. It was something like a .455 Webley and had a small rim. The cartridges are similar but not identical. Please make very sure that you use the correct cartridge as you just might have a huge problem with head-spacing and accuracy. The british cartridge was even lower powered than the ACP. I bought one of these British contract barrels a while ago not knowing about the difference and it simply did not work. The most obvious difference is in the magazines.

I'm pretty sure it was stamped .45ACP but I'll double check.

Thanks,

-rvb

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You need to get the stuff that will come off when you fire it out of that bore before you shoot it, or it could go bad. The barrel actually expands and contracts with the pressure of firing, that will loosen the debris that is in the barrel. I would soak it in Kroil for a couple days, wear out a couple bore brushes, and repeat at least one more time. It looks BAD right now, but the rust swells up and when you get it all out the bore might not be as bad as it looks. Skip the JB until you get the rust out and then don't get too frisky with the JB, it isn't going to help much if at all. Get the loose crap out and see what it looks like/

I'll keep scrubbing at it. I've been soaking the bore w/ liquid wrench and scrubbing which is helping. I'll try some kroil and keep at it. I'll leave it up to the owner if he wants me to try bead blasting or a barrel swap or anything.

Thanks, everyone, for all the tips!!!

-rvb

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mix a little sweet's solvent with some kroil and run a wet patch through the barrel....wait a few hours and brush the heck out of it...repeat. This might help get some of the deep stuff out of the bore.

JM

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Thanks guys.

I had looked online before I went out so I'd know what I was looking for... just hoping to find it local and quick.

I need other stuff from brownells so I'll get it from there.

Thanks!

Will post results in a couple weeks.

-rvb

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1. Use your jb bore paste get as much as you can.

2. take some jb bore paste and take a cast bullett and with 2 pieces of flat metal roll the paste into the bullett make 3-5 of these they will lap the bore somewhat whiel you fire these thru the gun.

3. shoot these thru the gun loaded singley.

4. clean the barell again with Rem Clean applied to a patch wrapped around a Nylon brush

5. Clean with Hoppes or some other suitable bore cleaner.

6. treat bore with oil

7. shoot it again and see what happens if (you probaly won't clear all the pitting but you should improve it more)

8. if needed Sarco has Roto barrells Mil spec for 37.95 ea www.sarcoinc.com

Edited by DEADEYE
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