CR Speed Holster problems

[Jeff686]

I was out at the range yesterday trying out my new CR Speed WSM II and my Tanfoglio Gold Team. I had some problems and am looking for advice.

My setup:

Safariland 028/029 belts

CR Speed WSM II

Velcro INSIDE the holster loop, where it grabs the outer belt.

Mounted just forward of my hip bone, over the little 'change pocket' in my levi jeans. (same spot as my Safariland 007 for limted)

CR Speed Adjustments:

I feel very good about the gun's position in the holster and the adjustment of the trigger/swtich/lock. It goes in and out easily, but is secure and has very little play when holstered. I don't think my problem is with the retention system.

Problem:

During casual draws, the pistol comes out easily. However, during my normal draw (under the buzzer), the holster lifts/rotates to the side (muzzle of gun away from leg, grip into gut), and the gun does not come out.

Obviously, my draw is applying a force vector with more of a propensity to rotate the holster than to overcome the latch. I am 100% sure the 'lock' is disengauged, so don't blame that. If I take the time to pull 'straight' everything works fine. I don't feel my draw is excessivly crooked. I've successfully used my Safariland 007 for years.

Possible solutions:

1. Hi-Torque belt. Is a hi-torque belt designed to prevent this from happening? It seems like fixing the symptom, not the root problem. I have a Safariland 4350 on oder (for my limited setup). Might it be any better than the 028? Should I just get a CR belt?

2. Move the holster. I did not play around with changing the holster position. I guess I have 3 adjustments (cant, twist, and belt position). I see a lot of open shooters with the holster on the front of the hip, closer the crotch, with a good bit of cant. Is this the preffered position? Could moving the holster position improve the straightness of my natural draw?

3. Change my draw. I can certainly practice a more 'straight' draw, with the holster in the current position. It feels a little unnatural. I can probably reprogram myself.

What other options are there? Which of these is most likely the best solution?

[R.Elliott]

I was out at the range yesterday trying out my new CR Speed WSM II and my Tanfoglio Gold Team. I had some problems and am looking for advice.

My setup:

Safariland 028/029 belts

CR Speed WSM II

Velcro INSIDE the holster loop, where it grabs the outer belt.

Mounted just forward of my hip bone, over the little 'change pocket' in my levi jeans. (same spot as my Safariland 007 for limted)

CR Speed Adjustments:

I feel very good about the gun's position in the holster and the adjustment of the trigger/swtich/lock. It goes in and out easily, but is secure and has very little play when holstered. I don't think my problem is with the retention system.

Problem:

During casual draws, the pistol comes out easily. However, during my normal draw (under the buzzer), the holster lifts/rotates to the side (muzzle of gun away from leg, grip into gut), and the gun does not come out.

Obviously, my draw is applying a force vector with more of a propensity to rotate the holster than to overcome the latch. I am 100% sure the 'lock' is disengauged, so don't blame that. If I take the time to pull 'straight' everything works fine. I don't feel my draw is excessivly crooked. I've successfully used my Safariland 007 for years.

Possible solutions:

1. Hi-Torque belt. Is a hi-torque belt designed to prevent this from happening? It seems like fixing the symptom, not the root problem. I have a Safariland 4350 on oder (for my limited setup). Might it be any better than the 028? Should I just get a CR belt?

2. Move the holster. I did not play around with changing the holster position. I guess I have 3 adjustments (cant, twist, and belt position). I see a lot of open shooters with the holster on the front of the hip, closer the crotch, with a good bit of cant. Is this the preffered position? Could moving the holster position improve the straightness of my natural draw?

3. Change my draw. I can certainly practice a more 'straight' draw, with the holster in the current position. It feels a little unnatural. I can probably reprogram myself.

What other options are there? Which of these is most likely the best solution?

There's another option: CR Speed holsters benefit from a specific modification to fit Tanfo' pistols. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0364.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0365.jpg

This mod keeps the muzzle from accidentally lifting off the peg when the trigger lock is applied. I also later installed a small spacer block inside the trigger guard channel to prevent any downward movement so that an empty gun can't be inadvertently pushed down and half-cock the hammer. Not totally necessary but nice to have. Modded this way the gun doesn't move at all in the holster, releases very easily (even with torque applied deliberately), and when locked in place won't come out even if you yank on it hard. A high-torque belt is always an asset though.

We had a guy (new shooter) in the area who didn't set his CR up properly and compounded the problem by putting his thumb on the safety while in the holster during the draw stroke. Using the CR standard set-up it was possible to have the trigger locking bar contact the trigger surface if the gun was cantilevered out slightly forward, and this combined with a safety that was off when it shouldn't have been resulted in a .40 caliber hole in his foot.

In terms of where you draw from; where ever feels the most natural is probably best for you. Just make sure the rig is set up correctly and you should be fine.

Good luck

[mlmiller1]

OOPSSS, misread your post.

Edited February 4, 2008 by mlmiller1

[Jaxshooter]

I think you will find the CR Speed belt will help. I haven't seen any other belt as stiff with or with no twistng. They also last forever.

[Jeff686]

There's another option: CR Speed holsters benefit from a specific modification to fit Tanfo' pistols. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0364.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0365.jpg

This mod keeps the muzzle from accidentally lifting off the peg when the trigger lock is applied. I also later installed a small spacer block inside the trigger guard channel to prevent any downward movement so that an empty gun can't be inadvertently pushed down and half-cock the hammer. Not totally necessary but nice to have. Modded this way the gun doesn't move at all in the holster, releases very easily (even with torque applied deliberately), and when locked in place won't come out even if you yank on it hard. A high-torque belt is always an asset though.

We had a guy (new shooter) in the area who didn't set his CR up properly and compounded the problem by putting his thumb on the safety while in the holster during the draw stroke. Using the CR standard set-up it was possible to have the trigger locking bar contact the trigger surface if the gun was cantilevered out slightly forward, and this combined with a safety that was off when it shouldn't have been resulted in a .40 caliber hole in his foot.

In terms of where you draw from; where ever feels the most natural is probably best for you. Just make sure the rig is set up correctly and you should be fine.

Good luck

I don't have my CR in front of me to compare to the pictures, but I can't spot the modification you are suggesting. Did you remove some material from the latch (under where the lock moves)?

Could you give me a quick description to go with the pictures? I'm sure once you tell me, I'll get it...

Thanks!