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Hammer Block - leave it in, take it out?


nvmichael

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Many people do not in fact understand that the hammer block is nothing more than a safety redundancy, and that the true primary "drop safety" on a S&W revolver is the interplay between the hammer foot and the rebound slide. Unless the trigger is back, the hammer is blocked by the rebound slide and cannot move forward to fire the gun.

Although the difference is usually minimal, the hammer block introduces an extra level of potential friction into the DA trigger pull. In a few instances, I have seen the hammer block create significant glitchiness in the action. I always remove them in my competition action jobs, and on all my own personal competition revolvers.

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On your comp / range S&W revolvers, do you remove the hammer block or leave it in?

Does removing it result in a lighter DA pull?

I understand the safety consequences.

Thanks

It doesn't change the trigger pull. I take them out of my comp revos because they rattle. I leave it in my defense pistol.

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Many people do not in fact understand that the hammer block is nothing more than a safety redundancy, and that the true primary "drop safety" on a S&W revolver is the interplay between the hammer foot and the rebound slide. Unless the trigger is back, the hammer is blocked by the rebound slide and cannot move forward to fire the gun.

The argument I hear is that if dropped on the hammer spur, the hammer can break and still impact the round and the "safety block" is specifically intended to stop this.

Chances of that happening are pretty remote.

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Many people do not in fact understand that the hammer block is nothing more than a safety redundancy, and that the true primary "drop safety" on a S&W revolver is the interplay between the hammer foot and the rebound slide. Unless the trigger is back, the hammer is blocked by the rebound slide and cannot move forward to fire the gun.

The argument I hear is that if dropped on the hammer spur, the hammer can break and still impact the round and the "safety block" is specifically intended to stop this.

Chances of that happening are pretty remote.

Probability is right up there with being struck by lightning while reading this post.

This is being discussed on the "old womens" S&W Forum also. Read and be enlightened:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/...04/m/2441013872

Edited by Tom E
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Belt & Suspenders.

I only use both when I don't trust my pants. :blink:

:lol: fantastic.... sorry, nothing to say ontopic (except, that all my revos miss that thing, too), but I laughed so loud when I read this post, I thought, I should tell Waltermitty :cheers:

;)

DVC,

Sascha

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Belt & Suspenders.

I only use both when I don't trust my pants. :blink:

:lol: fantastic.... sorry, nothing to say ontopic (except, that all my revos miss that thing, too), but I laughed so loud when I read this post, I thought, I should tell Waltermitty :cheers:

;)

DVC,

Sascha

Then I have earned my keep for the day. Prost! :cheers:

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Many people do not in fact understand that the hammer block is nothing more than a safety redundancy, and that the true primary "drop safety" on a S&W revolver is the interplay between the hammer foot and the rebound slide. Unless the trigger is back, the hammer is blocked by the rebound slide and cannot move forward to fire the gun.

The argument I hear is that if dropped on the hammer spur, the hammer can break and still impact the round and the "safety block" is specifically intended to stop this.

Chances of that happening are pretty remote.

What hammer spur? :lol:

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From what I have been informed is that incase the hammer pivot pin is broken, and the hammer is struck it can cause the firing pin to make caontact with the primer. I can check this out when time permits as I can remove my hammer pivot pin from an old S&W. It was repaired prior to me knowing that I could just send it off to the factory for repairs... later rdd

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