Beretta 390 Misfires

[Heavy Barrel]

I have this Beretta 390 that I have owned for a good ten years.

It isn't something I would trust my life to but for any "leasure" shoot (blue rock) at a public range it works great.

The only catch to this is that it has a tendency to misfire. But the rounds that misfire I can take from the 390 and place in either my 687 or 682 and they will discharge with no problems.

Every round shot from my 390 appears as if the firing pin is bearly striking the primer while the 680's have good penetration to the primer.

I have stripped this gun down to see if there was any fowling or excessive wear. Only to find nothing.

I have looked for litrature on various chamber and firing pin specs to see if either of two were the culprit.

Though it seems that such information is Classified.

And I would hate to spend $350 on a new barrel only to find out that the new barrel didn't correct the issue.

Edited January 27, 2008 by Heavy Barrel

[EricW]

Cole's, Seminole, Briley, or Angle Port will all probably have the gunsmithing talent to figure it out. Could be a soft spring (most likely) to a short firing pin, or a hammer that's waaay out of spec (least likely). You might try sending it to Beretta directly. It will take longer, but if the barrel is indeed chambered badly, they may take pity on you and rebarrel for free.

Maybe someone with another 390 could depth mic the distance from the end of the chamber to the rim groove and you could compare notes.

Edited January 27, 2008 by EricW

[Heavy Barrel]

As I mentioned previously, I have stripped this gun down before.

Though one thing I noticed is that the right brace seemed to me as if it could use a shim or two between it the hammer and the trigger plate. Not that a "loose" brace would create misfires. But it has a looser fit than the left.

Really all the brace is doing is creating a linkage between the hammer spring and the hammer.

Another thing I noticed is that IMO the hammer spring is somewhat on the weak side in comparison to what I have seen Wolff produce in their aftermarket springs for S&W Revo's.

The springs in my Revo's and O/U's are stronger than what Beretta put in this gun.

Edited January 27, 2008 by Heavy Barrel

[EricW]

It may be that your spring just didn't get heat treated well. Why not just order a replacement spring & firing pin from Beretta and see if the problem goes away for $25 or so? If that doesn't work, it's time to see the Dr.

[Heavy Barrel]

It may be that your spring just didn't get heat treated well. Why not just order a replacement spring & firing pin from Beretta and see if the problem goes away for $25 or so? If that doesn't work, it's time to see the Dr.

Did that.

[Heavy Barrel]

The Professional's Response courtesy of Beretta.....

Light (7/8 oz. or 1 oz.) Trap loads are typically used to reduce recoil in over/under shotguns and do not cycle semi-auto actions of Beretta A390 Standard shotguns reliably because of the insufficient amount of powder charge used in them. Light primer strikes are typically the result of using Light Trap loads as well. All Beretta semi-auto shotgun gas systems (including the A390 Standard) requires the use of standard velocity (1.8 oz Target loads or higher) to allow them to work reliably.

Please. Could some one here offer a better explination on how light target loads could generate light primer strikes in which in my case "misfires"

My understanding has always been that no matter what the load is, it will fire. It just won't have the energy to cycle the next round in to the chamber. (correct me if I am wrong)

BTW, I have shot nothing lighter than 1-1/8oz #8 at 3 dram equiv.

[Irishlad]

All Beretta semi-auto shotgun gas systems (including the A390 Standard) requires the use of standard velocity (1.8 oz Target loads or higher) to allow them to work reliably.

Ha, what nonsense! If that were true, they would be out of business with their auto.

I've shot and "seen" many thousands of 7/8oz fired through the Beretta autos reliably.

Plus, only in this country are many shotgun sports using 1 1/8, most everywhere else, it's 1oz or 7/8oz and they are an "international" company.

As a "caustic" side note: This is typical of Beretta, they have "earned" their reputation.

What "ammo" are you using, or what primers if you reload?

I ask that, since I've had a shotgun that wouldn't reliably "set-off" a particular primer, and no problem with another brand. Maybe you try that before you go "mechanical"...so to speak.

Edited February 5, 2008 by Irishlad

[Carlos]

All Beretta semi-auto shotgun gas systems (including the A390 Standard) requires the use of standard velocity (1.8 oz Target loads or higher) to allow them to work reliably.

As a "caustic" side note: This is typical of Beretta, they have "earned" their reputation.

What "ammo" are you using, or what primers if you reload?

I ask that, since I've had a shotgun that wouldn't reliably "set-off" a particular primer, and no problem with another brand. Maybe you try that before you go "mechanical"...so to speak.

Agree - Beretta's response is laughable. How could they write something that stupid?

The new Wolff spring SHOULD have cured the problem (worked for my SX2). But if you must shoot an upcoming match, the use of Federal primers might get you by until you uncover the underlying cause.

[Heavy Barrel]

All Beretta semi-auto shotgun gas systems (including the A390 Standard) requires the use of standard velocity (1.8 oz Target loads or higher) to allow them to work reliably.

Ha, what nonsense! If that were true, they would be out of business with their auto.

I've shot and "seen" many thousands of 7/8oz fired through the Beretta autos reliably.

Plus, only in this country are many shotgun sports using 1 1/8, most everywhere else, it's 1oz or 7/8oz and they are an "international" company.

As a "caustic" side note: This is typical of Beretta, they have "earned" their reputation.

What "ammo" are you using, or what primers if you reload?

I ask that, since I've had a shotgun that wouldn't reliably "set-off" a particular primer, and no problem with another brand. Maybe you try that before you go "mechanical"...so to speak.

The ammo I used was Federal value pack. Typically sold in quanities of 100. I don't know which other retailers sold it but I made my purchases at Wal-mart due to the convience.

I ask that, since I've had a shotgun that wouldn't reliably "set-off" a particular primer, and no problem with another brand. Maybe you try that before you go "mechanical"...so to speak.

I just got to get it to quit snowing first

Edited February 6, 2008 by Heavy Barrel

[Irishlad]

While it's still snowing, I'd call Cole Gunsmithing and talk to them first.

It may be something very simple...like hammer springs.

My comment about different shells and primers worked for me, "way back when". It was easy to try a different primer and I shot quite a bit. Buying different shells at anywhere from $6.00-$8.00 and shooting enough to determine probably is not cost-efficient for you. And may only delay or mask weak springs, FP, etc in your Beretta. I'm not sure of the frequency of your problem or how much you shoot with it.

Edited February 6, 2008 by Irishlad

[Heavy Barrel]

While it's still snowing, I'd call Cole Gunsmithing and talk to them first.

It may be something very simple...like hammer springs.

My comment about different shells and primers worked for me, "way back when". It was easy to try a different primer and I shot quite a bit. Buying different shells at anywhere from $6.00-$8.00 and shooting enough to determine probably is not cost-efficient for you. And may only delay or mask weak springs, FP, etc in your Beretta. I'm not sure of the frequency of your problem or how much you shoot with it.

Back when I was discussing this matter with EricW. I had ordered a replacement hammer spring, along with some other parts.

The hammer spring I recieved was roughly 3/16" to 1/4" longer than the original spring. Yet it still had the same number of coils.

Could this create such a problem?

I pass this information on to Wolff to see if they have something similar on hand.

As I explained to Coles, with out knowing what the cause is. It bits me in the rear at times having to pay $20-30 or more to ship something out only to find out it was something like a $2.00 spring that was causing the problem.

[Irishlad]

Okay, you've already talked to Coles. I missed that.

I don't know the answer on your spring question to be honest. On O/U's, light strikes I've seen were due to #1- crud, #2 Firing pin and/or FP spring. The hammer coil springs all appeared to be quite robust.

Perhaps replaced at high round counts...just because.

But, replace those and see what happens...it's cheap. Sounds like you have time to try some things out.

If not, then you might be forced to send it in if you haven't replaced the FP or spring?

[Heavy Barrel]

Sounds like you have time to try some things out.

If not, then you might be forced to send it in if you haven't replaced the FP or spring?

FP, FP Spring, Extractor, L&R Brace, Hammer, & Hammer Spring. Were all taken care of.

If this don't work Coles thinks it could possibily be the recoil spring. (I don't want to mess with that)

[WillM]

You've been getting good advice so far [especially about using Rich Cole - he's the go to guy for Berettas] but I just have to speak up about replacing your recoil spring - if I can do it you can do it! And I've done it a bunch. You're looking at all of the right things ; hammer struts and links are very evident when they break so if you don't see it right away that's probably not it. An often overlooked item is the firing pin spring - I've had them break and continue to function with only occasional light primer strikes due to the fact that when it breaks in the middle the two ends will continue to maintain pressure on each other and work most of the time, note the word most. A quick fix is a large drop of oil right down the firing pin hole. My outfitter buddy in Mexico always squirts a big glob on his sport's guns when they start getting light hits and they continue to work; on the second try if not the first!

If it sounds like I've had problems with my 390's I haven't - before I switched to O/U's I shot them for many tens of thousands [yes 10's] of rounds on four continents for both birds and sporting clays. I've owned eight of the 390's [and 391's - I have two boys] and used to always carry a spare [autos are like sheep; they know when they're alone and they don't like it] but then I started to carry all spare parts in a box - I've rebuilt a trigger in the front seat of a Land Cruiser and replaced broken links in the Pampas. If I could have only one shotgun to survive with, it would be my black synthetic stock 12 gauge Silver Mallard- it always works because I maintained it properly. I know of a fellow who shot many, many thousands of rounds without ever cleaning his and documented it on one of the sporting clays sites. I only tried this with one of mine [a 391] and after 9,000 I couldn't stand it anymore so I tried to take it apart to clean it and stripped out the magazine tube and forend cap - cost me $150 in parts so I never did that again.

When you replace your recoil spring also replace your magazine spring. Both are available from Rich Cole. You will be amazed at how much shorter your old springs are than the new ones [if you've put any number of rounds through them at all]. I know it sounds intimidating but if you can turn a wrench you can do it.

PM me and I'll walk you through it if you'd like. You do need a Phillips #2 screwdriver and a socket wrench with a 4-6" extension and preferably a long socket, a quality adjustable wrench and a heat gun [hair dryer might work - a torch will work but I prefer not to use the open flame] and some blue loctite. I know it sounds challenging but you can do it - I wish I was able to show you in person. Good luck, Will

[Heavy Barrel]

You will be amazed at how much shorter your old springs are than the new ones [if you've put any number of rounds through them at all].

Will,

I would like to get out to the range (Mother nature permiting) and see if the changes I have already applied will put a stop to the misfires.

If not then the next step will be to change the recoil spring. Considering the fact I have put right around 1000-1200 rounds through it. I will keep your offer in mind, I am eager to try, just that I know what happens when the recoil spring is unleashed. (same as the magazine spring)

Comparing to what you stated above. The original hammer spring was approx 1/8" shorter than its replacement. Just don't know if that is the culprut or not. Though it does sound as if its hitting the snap cap harder.

Be nice it Wolff offered their version(s) as they do for the revo rebound springs.

[WillM]

I meant to say earlier that if it were me, I'd also try several different types of shells. I've never had an issue with my Berrettas or Benellis, but I've got a Blaser F3 competition sporting gun that has given me fits with light primer hits. It's been back to Briley several times and they re-cut the chambers and I still had the problem. I totally lost confidence in the gun and wasted that year in competition, but I really love the way the gun handles and breaks targets - I just couldn't stop wondering if it would go bang or click!! I woke up one day and realized that all my problems had been with Mirage shells. Started trying everything else and never had the problem with any other shell. Stuck with Rio the next year and moved to master....the mind is a terrible thing. I talked to the manager of BlaserUSA in Reno at the SCI show a couple of weeks ago and he told me to send it to them [NOT Briley] so they could go through it and do some updates - gotta love that. Since I started USPSA I've moved back down in class but I'm really looking forward to shooting the Blaser this year.

I've been shooting an Xtrema2 at ducks [need the camo coating and repellent for salt water hunting plus my youngest stole my favorite 390] for the last two years and three of my friends bought them after shooting mine and two of them have had trigger spring issues, although it was failure to fire and not just light primer hits they've had problems with. Since they were new guns they've sent them to Beretta who replaced the whole trigger assembly to fix it - I've never had a problem with mine, shooting 300-400 ducks/geese each year.

If there's a point to all this it's that there are a zillion things that can go wrong so try one thing at a time so you know which one it was that finally fixed the problem! Oh and about the no-problem Xtrema2 - twice I have accidently depressed the magazine tube cap detent while disassembling it, so the mag spring, plug and cap ended up flying completely across the room! I think I've only had one 390 recoil spring do that [there is no buttstock recoil spring in the Xgun] Will

[slidelock1]

I know this thread is an "older one" and I hope by now that you have found an answer. I shoot and have shot Beretta's exclusively in trap competition since 1978 because of their incredible reliability (I started with an Al-2, graduated to a 390, an SO4, and an ASE Gold combo and over the course of years have probably put through over 100k rounds through these guns) and from time to time have had the same problem you've encountered. When this happened, I switched to a different primer. Since you use factory Federal, try Remington or Winchester ammunition or any of the others out there. Federal primers can run a teensy bit deep; some batches deeper than others, and even though they are "soft" I would occasionally get a light strike. As to why you get a light strike on one gun and ignition on another is one of life's little mysteries that you could spend forever pondering.

FYI, the same thing happens with great frequency shooting .22's. I shoot over 15,000 rounds of these little guys annually in two different guns. I usually purchase bagfuls of Federal bulk at Walmart. I have a Ruger MKII that reliably fires the Federals every time; I have a Browning Buckmark that misfires them frequently, so in competition I use CCI's. If I put the misfired Federals in the Ruger they go off. This issue with .22's has been discussed at length for years in the .22 Forums with no answer discovered even by the most undaunted experimenters!

I hope this helps. Good luck!