A Glock trigger without the trigger safety

[BIG WILL]

Oh yea, it is similar to a 1911's single action pull. Very Short amount of travel.

I have heard some people that claim that this is possible but I have yet to shoot a Glock with a 1911-like trigger. In my case what I would like to see is a Glock trigger that has a nice/clean ~2lbs break (not mushy). If you manage to achieve this I can assure you that you will have many Glock-owner's undivided attention (including mine).

That's actually pretty easy to do. The Sotelo kit will do it and get very close to 2 lbs. I got a very sharp breaking 2.4# trigger using the stock trigger bar with the trigger pivot moved (drill the new hole, trim the end of the trigger bar) and the aftermarket disconnector in the Sotelo kit.

I agree they won't ever feel like a 1911, but they can be made good enough to shoot straight.

The firing pin safety is always going to have some effect on trigger pull, assuming you actually want it to work and not simply be completely raised at the trigger's "forward return" position. The shorter you make the "pre travel" distance, the more vertical you have to make the ramp edge on the trigger bar that lifts the plunger. Steeper face means a little more force to move the plunger against it's spring.

Not necessarily. I have less than 3/16 overall travel and I do not depress the safety plunger until the last second.

[mpolans]

*QUOTE*

If you shorten the pre-travel of the trigger, preventing it from going all the way forward, it disables the little safety lever on the trigger.

Re cut the trigger safety where it touches the frame and it will work again.

True, but the problem with tht is the new "resting position" of the trigger would be in a place where the firing pin safety plunger was partially raised, reducing it's effectiveness. And, the trigger would appear to be fully forward because the center saftey lever is forward as it is supposed to be.

I'm not sying this is horrible, some comp shooters may choose to set up their triggers so they only return far enough to reset the trigger. But, it does negate the FP safety's effectiveness to some degree.

You could also weld up and re-shape the trigger bar where it contacts the firing pin safety to negate the problem mentioned above.

There is another way, if you know what you are doing. I have done it and it works, but I really don't want to give away too many secrets. Still trying to figure out how to make a living doing this trigger job. Trust me, it is awsome. It uses all OEM parts. Short travel, Short reset. Plunger safety WORKS and I recut the trigger safety for those peskies that want to "see" the safety so that I may shoot on their range. Did I mention that I have not seen or heard of anyone doing a trigger job like this yet? Just to let you all know, it CAN be done, if you know what you are doing.

Oh yea, it is similar to a 1911's single action pull. Very Short amount of travel.

Well, I suppose instead of welding up and reshaping the trigger bar, you could also reduce take-up and retain the firing pin safety function by reducing the diameter of the head of the firing pin safety where it contacts the trigger bar (or at least put a serious bevel on it). That might buy you quite a bit of take-up, but IIRC, that button is pretty tough.

Edited February 6, 2008 by mpolans

[bountyhunter]

Well, I suppose instead of welding up and reshaping the trigger bar, you could also reduce take-up and retain the firing pin safety function by reducing the diameter of the head of the firing pin safety where it contacts the trigger bar (or at least put a serious bevel on it). That might buy you quite a bit of take-up, but IIRC, that button is pretty tough.

I had a go at it after thinking along those lines.... I put the plunger in a chuck and spun it while "lathing it" with assorted swiss steel files.

Wore out three files and never even put a scratch on the plunger.

Whatever it's made of came from the planet Krypton.

[bountyhunter]

Not necessarily. I have less than 3/16 overall travel and I do not depress the safety plunger until the last second.

I'm sure the trigger bar and/or plunger can be reworked to do that. My point was that the movement of the trigger bar has to in some way lift the plunger. If you alter the "lifting" angle of the bump on the bar to get it to lift in a shorter distance moved, it means the angle has to be steeper so it takes a bit more trigger pull force to get the same lift because the angle is steeper.

A problem I had (in one of the previous trigger setups I had with short pull and little pre-travel) was the striker release point didn't have the plunger fully lifted because it was so short. It fired if I pulled the trigger hard and fast to get the plunger up, but a slow pull would sometimes get light strikes.

Edited February 6, 2008 by bountyhunter

[BIG WILL]

Well, I suppose instead of welding up and reshaping the trigger bar, you could also reduce take-up and retain the firing pin safety function by reducing the diameter of the head of the firing pin safety where it contacts the trigger bar (or at least put a serious bevel on it). That might buy you quite a bit of take-up, but IIRC, that button is pretty tough.

I had a go at it after thinking along those lines.... I put the plunger in a chuck and spun it while "lathing it" with assorted swiss steel files.

Wore out three files and never even put a scratch on the plunger.

Whatever it's made of came from the planet Krypton.

Nope, can't really turn down the plunger because if you look up the mag well while pulling the trigger, the ramp on the trigger bar is actually on the side of the plunger and even moves to the side of the plunger near the end of the pull, negating the ability to turn much of the plunger while still achieving good primer strikes. there is no need to weld up on the trigger bar.

[bountyhunter]

Nope, can't really turn down the plunger because if you look up the mag well while pulling the trigger, the ramp on the trigger bar is actually on the side of the plunger and even moves to the side of the plunger near the end of the pull, negating the ability to turn much of the plunger while still achieving good primer strikes. there is no need to weld up on the trigger bar.

I was actually trying to shave a tiny bit off the sharp edge on the top part of the plunger which was dinging the edge of my striker nose because it wasn't fully lifting out of the way....

[jobob]

Nope, can't really turn down the plunger because if you look up the mag well while pulling the trigger, the ramp on the trigger bar is actually on the side of the plunger and even moves to the side of the plunger near the end of the pull, negating the ability to turn much of the plunger while still achieving good primer strikes. there is no need to weld up on the trigger bar.

I was actually trying to shave a tiny bit off the sharp edge on the top part of the plunger which was dinging the edge of my striker nose because it wasn't fully lifting out of the way....

That would have the opposite effect. Anything you take off the face of the plunger will delay it's disengagement.

I have Triggerkits (http://www.triggerkit.com/main.sc) in 3 of my competition Glocks. The plunger that comes with the kit is rounded off and highly polished. In one of my guns too much metal had been removed and it caused light primer strikes and many misfires. I reinstalled the factory plunger, after giving it a polish job, and the light strikes went away. Also, I found (surprisingly) that when I used the light plunger spring that came with the kit the trigger pull was reduced by 1 lb from using the factory spring. I never would have thought there would be that much difference.

Also, after installing the Triggerkits the trigger did not fully return and the trigger safety would not engage. Taking some material off the back edge of the trigger safety fixed the problem. The firing pin safety plunger is still functional (as noted above). The plunger is depressed only in the last tiny bit of trigger movement.

Removing or neutralizing the trigger safety is foolish. These trigger jobs use a heavy trigger bar spring (pulling trigger to the rear) and a light firing pin spring (reduced forward resistance to the rearward pull). The chance of a dropped gun firing would be GREATLY increased without the trigger safety! Simple physics. And, don't compare the Glock to the 1911. The operating principles are totally different. With the Glock trigger spring removed there is nothing preventing the trigger, trigger bar, and firing pin from moving to the rear to the sear release point, other than spring tension. In the 1911, disabling all safeties but the thumb safety, the trigger is still actively blocked from rearward movement (when the thumb safety is engaged).

BTW, my competition Glocks have trigger pulls in the 2 lb. to 2.5 lb. range. I don't need or want them lighter.

[BIG WILL]

Nope, can't really turn down the plunger because if you look up the mag well while pulling the trigger, the ramp on the trigger bar is actually on the side of the plunger and even moves to the side of the plunger near the end of the pull, negating the ability to turn much of the plunger while still achieving good primer strikes. there is no need to weld up on the trigger bar.

I was actually trying to shave a tiny bit off the sharp edge on the top part of the plunger which was dinging the edge of my striker nose because it wasn't fully lifting out of the way....

That would have the opposite effect. Anything you take off the face of the plunger will delay it's disengagement.

I have Triggerkits (http://www.triggerkit.com/main.sc) in 3 of my competition Glocks. The plunger that comes with the kit is rounded off and highly polished. In one of my guns too much metal had been removed and it caused light primer strikes and many misfires. I reinstalled the factory plunger, after giving it a polish job, and the light strikes went away. Also, I found (surprisingly) that when I used the light plunger spring that came with the kit the trigger pull was reduced by 1 lb from using the factory spring. I never would have thought there would be that much difference.

Also, after installing the Triggerkits the trigger did not fully return and the trigger safety would not engage. Taking some material off the back edge of the trigger safety fixed the problem. The firing pin safety plunger is still functional (as noted above). The plunger is depressed only in the last tiny bit of trigger movement.

Removing or neutralizing the trigger safety is foolish. These trigger jobs use a heavy trigger bar spring (pulling trigger to the rear) and a light firing pin spring (reduced forward resistance to the rearward pull). The chance of a dropped gun firing would be GREATLY increased without the trigger safety! Simple physics. And, don't compare the Glock to the 1911. The operating principles are totally different. With the Glock trigger spring removed there is nothing preventing the trigger, trigger bar, and firing pin from moving to the rear to the sear release point, other than spring tension. In the 1911, disabling all safeties but the thumb safety, the trigger is still actively blocked from rearward movement (when the thumb safety is engaged).

BTW, my competition Glocks have trigger pulls in the 2 lb. to 2.5 lb. range. I don't need or want them lighter.

No offense, but let's review. I said "similar" to a 1911. I know a glock is not a 1911 and was never intended to be. I stated that my trigger job had a short trigger pull....very little take-up, no over-travel, fast reset. Never said anything about light, although it is at 2-2.5 lbs. the trigger safety tab was modified to hit the frame because some of the pre-travel was taken up. no modifications were made to the plunger except polishing and shortening the spring. the usual polishing routine, blah, blah. 3.5 lb disconnector. factory striker spring, factory trigger spring. I WON'T say what else yet. Just seeing if anyone else has figured it out yet. Except for the disconnector, I used all OEM Glock parts.