R.Elliott Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 For the cocking handle, have a look at the pix below. You can see the mod I did to give better clearance. It was way better, but still not totally satisfied I opted to make one from aluminum using a file, a dremel, a drill press and about three hours of my free time. When I got the second gun I acquired a Sidewinder handle and fitted it, then modified it so that it looks as you now see it in the photos. Both guns are now perfect in my opinion, as there is absolutely no interference on the thumb. Triggers: Once you get used to what a pivoting trigger can do for you in terms of bio-feedback in the prepping phase, I don't think you will like straight pull triggers quite so much anymore. I have mine set to about 1mm of overt ravel and the same on take-up with a 2lb pull that feels like less. The extra spring pressure you feel when the trigger resets (compared to 1911's) contributes to extremely fast splits and alleviates the need to slap the trigger. Just let the finger muscles relax slightly and presto; instant reset and you are already prepped on the sear for the next shot. Simply an amazing feel/design. The safety can be easily tuned, but I would just shoot it for a bit first. It will probably soften up a bit. Ammo: Load to 175 - 175 pf and use a 10 lb spring. VERY flat shooting and quick/snappy. Use a .223 shell plate if you are loading rimless. Bullets: I am shooting plated bullets exclusively right now. At 25 yards I can put them all into a group the size the top of a shot glass. Polygonal rifling doesn't score the jackets like button rifling does, and the bores are tighter so they tend to swage the bullet down a bit for better concentricity and less blow-by, so they typically shoot a little hotter with a given load. Welcome aboard! http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0399.jpg http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0402.jpg http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0421.jpg http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0423.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 For the cocking handle, have a look at the pix below. You can see the mod I did to give better clearance. It was way better, but still not totally satisfied I opted to make one from aluminum using a file, a dremel, a drill press and about three hours of my free time. When I got the second gun I acquired a Sidewinder handle and fitted it, then modified it so that it looks as you now see it in the photos. Both guns are now perfect in my opinion, as there is absolutely no interference on the thumb. Mr. Elliott, Great pictures! Thanks! Could you give me more details about how you modified the 'stock' cocking handle? It looks like you took some material off the bottom, but you also bent it. Did you have to heat it? What's the safest way to do it? I'd love to install a ball plunger/detent, instead of the set screw. Anyone done this on a Gold Team. The set screw and slide hole for it are off-center, which makes drilling them out for a plunger more difficult (not much material). What bullets are you using? You said they were plated, but what brand/wt? Thanks! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Jeff, not sure on the OAL but I'm surry Henning, Leo or KS shooter can help there (they are all good people). Your crimp however seems a little light. If you are using plated raniers they do not like high velocities typically or a heavy crimp due to the very thin plating. Your crimp should be the bullet diameter (.355 or .356) plus the case thickness (typicall .010 per side for .020 total). So .375 should be your goal. I usually shoot for this then pull a bullet and check the indents on the bullet. Since brass has spring to it you will acually be pushing the crimp past and it will spring back (plated bullets tend to have "Spring" too). So this is always a good check. The jacketed bullets will help here a lot as they aren't as sensitive. Plated bullets will litterally fly apart if the crimp gets too agressive, especially at those velocities (does add extra hits on your target though!) OK. My bullets measure .355. The case walls are about 0.014. Thats a crimp to .383 using your formula. Can that be right? It's looser than my current crimp... ?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeoHallak Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 There's no doubt it's not the gun. I've never loaded 38 super before. Plus for safety sake, I started with an obviously minor load. Also, it's hard to get bullets locally, so the plated were my only choice. I couldn't stand to wait...Anyway. I've got an order in for some MG. I'll also try to get some of the HAP that Henning likes. Then, I'll try again. use the rainier but they may have problem. Try a little more crimp the specs Josh said. when you chamber check with the barrel you just make sure it drops and doesn't rub. if you had half that worked and half didnt. see what the difference is. leo and get the 10lb springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Di Vita Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I don't know if you have done it yet but give Henning a call. No one knows more about these types of guns and no one is better to work with. He'll get you squared away real quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 (edited) For the cocking handle, have a look at the pix below. You can see the mod I did to give better clearance. It was way better, but still not totally satisfied I opted to make one from aluminum using a file, a dremel, a drill press and about three hours of my free time. When I got the second gun I acquired a Sidewinder handle and fitted it, then modified it so that it looks as you now see it in the photos. Both guns are now perfect in my opinion, as there is absolutely no interference on the thumb. Mr. Elliott, Great pictures! Thanks! Could you give me more details about how you modified the 'stock' cocking handle? It looks like you took some material off the bottom, but you also bent it. Did you have to heat it? What's the safest way to do it? I'd love to install a ball plunger/detent, instead of the set screw. Anyone done this on a Gold Team. The set screw and slide hole for it are off-center, which makes drilling them out for a plunger more difficult (not much material). What bullets are you using? You said they were plated, but what brand/wt? Thanks! Jeff I didn't know how maleable the aluminum alloy was on the cocking handle and din't want to break it off finding out, so I heated it with a propane torch to be safe. And yes, I did hog out the bottom of it to give better thumb clearance. It actually works pretty well, but I just prefer the left side handle so went ahead and made one. It really isn't hard to do if you want to give it a try. I find it's faster for me on that side. I'm using a local brand of bullet called Excel. They are pretty cheap and probably not as concentric as the Raniers are, but in these guns they work just fine. So anything plated should be good to go for you as well. Edited January 10, 2008 by R.Elliott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ks-shooter Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Mr. Elliot...very nice work on the slide racker. I think I will give it a try. Please tell me if you modified the comps on these guns or if they came that way. If you modified them, would you share the specific details? Quite simply, mine does not have any side stabilizer holes and I noticed yours both do. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Mr. Elliot...very nice work on the slide racker. I think I will give it a try. Please tell me if you modified the comps on these guns or if they came that way. If you modified them, would you share the specific details? Quite simply, mine does not have any side stabilizer holes and I noticed yours both do. Thanks! Thanks! It's not hard to do. I bought both of these gun slightly used, and the original owner was the same guy. He was the one who had the comps ported, and unfortunately I don't have any specs with today (at the office). But honestly, I would shoot it a bit before committing to drilling any holes as with the V-8 porting these guns should be pretty torque neutral already. If you do decide to go ahead and drill, I would do one hole on one side at a time depending on how it torques for you and test thoroughly before prceeding to drill again. Start with the port closest to the muzzle and start small, as you can always open it up afterwards and you can't put metal back once you remove it. But for now just watch the dot track and decide if it REALLY needs stabilizing. Slight displacement to one side or the other at apex is not really an issue so long as the recoil arc is consistent and the gun returns to the same place every time. If it's not oscillating in recoil (figure 8 pattern on the dot) I wouldn't drill it at all. Good luck with setting your gun up. These things are fantastic value and shoot as well or better than any other gun I've handled in the past 22 years. You've really got a keeper ther. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ks-shooter Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Rob, I will definitely take your advice and keep shooting and check the torque on the gun rise before I go and screw with drilling holes. Thanks for all the excellent advice and information. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooper_999 Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 For the cocking handle, have a look at the pix below. You can see the mod I did to give better clearance. It was way better, but still not totally satisfied I opted to make one from aluminum using a file, a dremel, a drill press and about three hours of my free time. When I got the second gun I acquired a Sidewinder handle and fitted it, then modified it so that it looks as you now see it in the photos. Both guns are now perfect in my opinion, as there is absolutely no interference on the thumb. Thanks for sharing these details! That´s what I was looking for.... I´ve bought a used Gold Custom Eric some weeks ago and I have the same issue with the handle on the right interfering my left thumb with gun gripping weak hand. I already thought about bending the standard one, but didn´t head the heart to do it because of the fear of breaking the aluminium. Now, I`ll give it a try! One more question on the sidewinder - did it suit to the dovetail-cut of the Tanfoglio or did it need some fitting? Thanks, Sascha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 (edited) For the cocking handle, have a look at the pix below. You can see the mod I did to give better clearance. It was way better, but still not totally satisfied I opted to make one from aluminum using a file, a dremel, a drill press and about three hours of my free time. When I got the second gun I acquired a Sidewinder handle and fitted it, then modified it so that it looks as you now see it in the photos. Both guns are now perfect in my opinion, as there is absolutely no interference on the thumb. Thanks for sharing these details! That´s what I was looking for.... I´ve bought a used Gold Custom Eric some weeks ago and I have the same issue with the handle on the right interfering my left thumb with gun gripping weak hand. I already thought about bending the standard one, but didn´t head the heart to do it because of the fear of breaking the aluminium. Now, I`ll give it a try! One more question on the sidewinder - did it suit to the dovetail-cut of the Tanfoglio or did it need some fitting? Thanks, Sascha It needed some fitting. If you have access to a machinist they could do it for you, or just get out the files (and a caliper) and take it slow. But note that the Sidewinder in the photos has also been extensively re-contoured, as they also interfere with the thumb if left as they come from the manufacturer. Heating, bending and filing, it definitely takes a little work to get it right. Good luck R Edited January 14, 2008 by R.Elliott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 insert jealous image here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 insert jealous image here. Slavex,..you need a Limited Custom in .40 for standard division!!!! Hopefully with some more money coming in, next month I may have one. Good thing is that my mag pouches and holster don't move, I woud use the same set-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PistolPete Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 WOW!!!! What an awesome gun!!! It's nice to see open guns that aren't 2011's. It's nice to mix things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted January 14, 2008 Author Share Posted January 14, 2008 We had a classifier match this past weekend. Unfortunately, I didn't have a rig for the new Gold Team, and couldn't shoot it. I guess I'll have to get classified the old fashioned way. I did bring my new gun with me. Several people were looking at it, and I even let a few of them shoot it after the match. All comments were favorable. Thanks to Al for the SP2. He's a real nice guy. I didn't understand that SP2 was 'discontinued', and no longer available. For long term consistency, I'm thinking about giving him back the SP2 and trying something else that is US made and available off the shelf. I hate changing loads, and once I find one I like, I hope to stick with it for a while. I also took the gun to my smith on Sunday. We looked at the safety that I was unhappy with. He noticed that the hammer was moving back a bit when the saftey was applied. Is that normal? He's going to do some fitting, and adjust it a little. I also showed him the nick in the compensator (cosmetic only). He's going to 'flat top' the compensator by a couple of thousandths, then bead blast it. We'll see how it looks, but at least the nick will be gone. I also switched to small pistol primers (from small rifle primers), and it ran 100%!! I did tighten down the crimp a little (.375), but they didn't seat any deeper in the chamber than the larger crimp (.379). I CAN'T WAIT to get the rig and start shooting matches with this puppy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ks-shooter Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 I also showed him the nick in the compensator (cosmetic only). He's going to 'flat top' the compensator by a couple of thousandths, then bead blast it. We'll see how it looks, but at least the nick will be gone. Just a word of caution: if he removes a "few thousandths" he is probably going to go through the Hard Chrome plating. The underlying metal will rust easily without a great deal of care or replating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Thanks to Al for the SP2. He's a real nice guy. I didn't understand that SP2 was 'discontinued', and no longer available. For long term consistency, I'm thinking about giving him back the SP2 and trying something else that is US made and available off the shelf. I hate changing loads, and once I find one I like, I hope to stick with it for a while.I also took the gun to my smith on Sunday. We looked at the safety that I was unhappy with. He noticed that the hammer was moving back a bit when the saftey was applied. Is that normal? He's going to do some fitting, and adjust it a little. Give 4756 a try. I'm having very good success with that, and it's cheap and available. The safety is a five-minute fix. A light dressing on the contact surface and you're good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeoHallak Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Just get out and shoot it all you can Jeff, they are sweet shooting guns. leo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted January 14, 2008 Author Share Posted January 14, 2008 I also showed him the nick in the compensator (cosmetic only). He's going to 'flat top' the compensator by a couple of thousandths, then bead blast it. We'll see how it looks, but at least the nick will be gone.Just a word of caution: if he removes a "few thousandths" he is probably going to go through the Hard Chrome plating. The underlying metal will rust easily without a great deal of care or replating. Umm, I thought this sucker was stainless, not plated. Am I confused? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeoHallak Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 I also showed him the nick in the compensator (cosmetic only). He's going to 'flat top' the compensator by a couple of thousandths, then bead blast it. We'll see how it looks, but at least the nick will be gone.Just a word of caution: if he removes a "few thousandths" he is probably going to go through the Hard Chrome plating. The underlying metal will rust easily without a great deal of care or replating. Umm, I thought this sucker was stainless, not plated. Am I confused? correct. its not stainless. I had parts of mine in the white for a while and never had a problem with rust. but it will rust. leo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 I just wanted everyone to know that I've worked out my problems: nick in top of comp Gunsmith did a 'flat top' on the comp, then bead blasted it. It looks really cool. I'll post pictures when available. Safety difficult to operate Gunsmith noticed the hammer moved when the safety moved. He fitted the safety better, and now it has an appropriate amount of on/off force (feels the same with the hammer cocked and at rest). Ignition Problems (with WSR and CCI-Pistol Found that with too little overtravel, the hammer can hang up and loose some energy. Holding the trigger back and working the hammer revealed some significant interference. I let out a little more overtravel and the hang up dissapeared. Henning found this was a problem for a lot of people, so I'm sure this was my problem too (haven't tested it yet). Takeup and overtravel I found the adjustment screws, and set them for my preference. As stated above, I had to readjust (lengthen) the overtravel to fix the ignition problems that I induced. Factory slide racker position (too low or on wrong side) I tried to 'bend' the factory slide racker (as shown above) but ended up shearing it in half (oops, need more heat). My gunsmith had a sidewinder and we 'simulated' it's installation. Good to go! Got one on order, and am going to have a ball-detent job done. Load Development I'm going to run 10.1gr of SP2 with 121gr Montana Gold at 170pf for at least a 1000round. I've got a cheap local source for Ranier Plated, and ran a bunch of 124gr RN without trouble. I'll do an accuracy test, and switch to those if they shoot OK. I was going to shoot it in it's first match tomorrow, but am going skiing with the family instead. Hey! Idea! IPSC on skis!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I'm going to run 10.1gr of SP2 with 121gr Montana Gold at 170pf for at least a 1000round. You can get SP2??? The Holy Grail. You are a God sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 I'm going to run 10.1gr of SP2 with 121gr Montana Gold at 170pf for at least a 1000round. You can get SP2??? The Holy Grail. You are a God sir! I have a benevolent benefactor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 I'm going to run 10.1gr of SP2 with 121gr Montana Gold at 170pf for at least a 1000round. You can get SP2??? The Holy Grail. You are a God sir! I have a benevolent benefactor. Well he must be God then. That stuff ain't easy to get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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