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Recoil spring? How much does it help with recoil?


B_RAD

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I'm new to the Glock world and have a few questions. First, How much does a reduced power recoil spring help with recoil? Secound, I'm not reloading yet for 9mm (just need to bye the dyes) so I will be shooting factory ammo so what # spring will I need to work properly? Last, do I just need the spring or do I need to buy the rod too? I will be shooting this in IDPA so I want to keep my G17 in the SSP division. Any advice on what would work and where to buy it would be greatly apprecated.

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you might want to do a search regarding recoil spring.

but for me a 13 lbs recoil spring in my g34, the gun bounces around less and allows me to aquire my sight picture a lot sooner than with the original spring. as for a recoil rod, i use the standard one less the keeper that holds the OE spring in place.

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you might want to do a search regarding recoil spring.

but for me a 13 lbs recoil spring in my g34, the gun bounces around less and allows me to aquire my sight picture a lot sooner than with the original spring. as for a recoil rod, i use the standard one less the keeper that holds the OE spring in place.

Is that legal for SSP? I'm not sure I know what the keeper that holds the OE spring in place is?

Thanks.

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the standard guide rod is a permanent captive unit. IIRC i had to trim some of the guide rod to get the OE spring off. Spring changes are totally legal for SSP. I'm not sure what the stock spring rating is but i tried a 13 and 15 pounder to see which i liked better. I can't recall which springs are the recommeded ones so you might want to do a search.

Edited by yoshidaex
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G17 uses a 17# stock recoil spring. In IDPA, to be legal in SSP, you have to use the stock guide rod. You can take(break) off the end that holds the spring, change your spring and just use the stock guide rod in an uncaptured fashion. If you go to a metal guide (no heavier than steel in idpa) you are now shooting in ESP.

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G17 uses a 17# stock recoil spring. In IDPA, to be legal in SSP, you have to use the stock guide rod. You can take(break) off the end that holds the spring, change your spring and just use the stock guide rod in an uncaptured fashion. If you go to a metal guide (no heavier than steel in idpa) you are now shooting in ESP.

Which side do you break off?

Thanks for the help.

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A 13lb ismi w/3 coils cut off is a good start, they tend to come a little long.

If you compress the stock spring and put the rod in a vice, take a long punch or metal rod

with a dia. smaller than the hole in the guide rod head. You will be able to punch out the plug holding

the spring captive. With the spring out you may also want to try cutting 3 coils off the stock spring first and see how that feels.

TY-3853

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You actually dont have to break the stock guide rod as the muzzle end actually comes off....I use a 13 lb spring in my G17 now and noticed a nice reduction of muzzle flip after I switched

Lock the slide back,use a small pair of pliers to pull the button out of the plastic guide rod.

Remove slide and take recoil spring and rod out.

Set rod down on your desk,place new recoil spring over it and compress,with other hand push button back in rod and now you have a captive factory rod with your 13 lb spring and legal for ssp.

Been doing this forever.

Pat

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You actually dont have to break the stock guide rod as the muzzle end actually comes off....I use a 13 lb spring in my G17 now and noticed a nice reduction of muzzle flip after I switched

Lock the slide back,use a small pair of pliers to pull the button out of the plastic guide rod.

Remove slide and take recoil spring and rod out.

Set rod down on your desk,place new recoil spring over it and compress,with other hand push button back in rod and now you have a captive factory rod with your 13 lb spring and legal for ssp.

Been doing this forever.

Pat

Dude,

Thanks. It sounds so simple. Reminds me of full length rods for 1911. Can't belive I did'nt think of that. Does the button come of easy? I don't want to mar it.

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You actually dont have to break the stock guide rod as the muzzle end actually comes off....I use a 13 lb spring in my G17 now and noticed a nice reduction of muzzle flip after I switched

Lock the slide back,use a small pair of pliers to pull the button out of the plastic guide rod.

Remove slide and take recoil spring and rod out.

Set rod down on your desk,place new recoil spring over it and compress,with other hand push button back in rod and now you have a captive factory rod with your 13 lb spring and legal for ssp.

Been doing this forever.

Pat

Dude,

Thanks. It sounds so simple. Reminds me of full length rods for 1911. Can't belive I did'nt think of that. Does the button come of easy? I don't want to mar it.

It takes a little work to get it out,if the pliers slip off you might mar it a little but no one will notice when you are shooting.You can always smooth it back up.

I use one small pair to hold rod and another to pull off the button.

Just take it easy the first time and you will get the hang of it.

pat

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Has anybody tried sanding the factory recoil spring's center section ? This is shown in the "Glock in Competition" book. I am curious on what the thoughts are on this mod of the recoil spring.

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ive been thinking about cuttin some off my 13#, if I understand right i'll get a little better ejection.

What might happen is that you will blow up your gun. :blink:

If you go too light on your recoil spring, not only might it not function well in stripping and feeding a round from the magazine...it could unlock as you simply pull the trigger.

The recoil spring holds the action closed. As you pull the trigger, the trigger bar pushes back on the striker...which is mounted in the slide. If you recoil spring is too light...then the slide can move backwards as you pull the trigger.

If this happens, you gun may fire while out of battery...and blow up.

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ive been thinking about cuttin some off my 13#, if I understand right i'll get a little better ejection.

What might happen is that you will blow up your gun. :blink:

If you go too light on your recoil spring, not only might it not function well in stripping and feeding a round from the magazine...it could unlock as you simply pull the trigger.

The recoil spring holds the action closed. As you pull the trigger, the trigger bar pushes back on the striker...which is mounted in the slide. If you recoil spring is too light...then the slide can move backwards as you pull the trigger.

If this happens, you gun may fire while out of battery...and blow up.

Do you use a reduced power striker spring? I've heard of a problem with using a stock recoil spring with a reduced power striker spring.

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I use a stock recoil rod and spring in my 9mm Glock.

But wait...you're a GM...

Yeah...I think I'll throw that around a little.

Folks, I've been shooting these Glocks at the upper levels of this sport for quite a few years now. It just pains me to see shooters chase their tails with "equipment improvements". There is nothing wrong with good stuff, but the reason to pick a Glock is that it runs and does it's job.

SHOOT THAT TOOL !!!

Any top shooter with a Glock, can take one off the rack and win with it. If they lose, it won't be the guns fault. It will be because they made some mistakes in execution, or the other shooter simple shot better that day.

Grip tape, good sights, and the 25 cent trigger job on an otherwise stock Glock took me to Grand Master...first in Limited, then in Production.

If you want to move up the scoresheets...learn to shoot better.

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Do you use a reduced power striker spring? I've heard of a problem with using a stock recoil spring with a reduced power striker spring.

You have it backwards.

If you use a stock striker spring (heavy) and a light recoil spring, then the relative difference between the two can be low enough to allow the gun to come out of battery while pulling the trigger.

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When I started this game, the Glock trigger gave me fits too. I was using a borrowed Glock from a buddy. I took it back to him complaining of it shooting low and left. Of course, it was me.

So I practiced trigger control...which is tied in with grip and stance a bit (stable platform, gripping with the weak-hand to free up the strong had to just pull the trigger). The dime on the front sight trick was a good start.

If you want to learn to shoot...I'll help. If you want to chase parts, I'm not your guy. (I certainly know the parts, and might suggest a thing or two...but, I need somebody to be excited about their shooting.)

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When I started this game, the Glock trigger gave me fits too. I was using a borrowed Glock from a buddy. I took it back to him complaining of it shooting low and left. Of course, it was me.

So I practiced trigger control...which is tied in with grip and stance a bit (stable platform, gripping with the weak-hand to free up the strong had to just pull the trigger). The dime on the front sight trick was a good start.

If you want to learn to shoot...I'll help. If you want to chase parts, I'm not your guy.

Any advise would be appreciated. What's the dime on the front sight trick?

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I use a stock recoil rod and spring in my 9mm Glock.

But wait...you're a GM...

Yeah...I think I'll throw that around a little.

Folks, I've been shooting these Glocks at the upper levels of this sport for quite a few years now. It just pains me to see shooters chase their tails with "equipment improvements". There is nothing wrong with good stuff, but the reason to pick a Glock is that it runs and does it's job.

SHOOT THAT TOOL !!!

Any top shooter with a Glock, can take one off the rack and win with it. If they lose, it won't be the guns fault. It will be because they made some mistakes in execution, or the other shooter simple shot better that day.

Grip tape, good sights, and the 25 cent trigger job on an otherwise stock Glock took me to Grand Master...first in Limited, then in Production.

If you want to move up the scoresheets...learn to shoot better.

I have heard similar comments from another Ohio GM that made the World Team this year. Either it is something in the water or they are right !!

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