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Reloading Glock Brass

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Root Causes:

Bulged brass is almost universally caused by firing it in an unsupported chamber. Glock pistols in .40 caliber are the source for 99.9% of this issue. Dillon's resizing die will not get out all of the bulge becasue Dillon puts a wider mouth on their dies in order to make their reloaders easier to operate. Dillon is not at fault becasue your brass is bulged.

In the words of gracious host:

I was requested by email to respond to this (worn out) topic.

My email reply:

It's really not Dillon's issue. I've used a 40 Dillon die for 13 years and never had any issues with it. But I ALWAYS use brass that's only been fired in my SVI. And, I've never even owned a case gauge, much less chamber checked ANY ammo.

The real issue is what a Glock 40 with a factory unsupported chamber does to the brass. SAMI specs indicate that a 40 cal MUST have a fully supported chamber, which Glock chose to ignore when they built their guns.

If you ONLY shoot brass that's ALWAYS been shot in a fully supported barrel - using the cartridge as it was intended - the Dillon die works perfectly.



  • Buy a resizing die from EGW - that has been ground down so it sizes all the bulge out of the case.
  • Buy a Lee U (undersized die) that will probably get most of the bulge out.
  • Buy roll-sized brass and don't shoot it in your Glock again
  • Send your brass to a roll-sizingservice
  • Throw out all your guppy-bellied Glock brass
  • If you want to shoot your .40 Glock, but don't want to sort brass, consider buying a supported barrel.
  • Buy brand-spanky-new brass and never fire it in a Glock

The two solutions that people seem to have the most success with are the EGW die ($20) and ceasing to use brass fired in Glocks. Repeatedly firing brass in a sloppy Glock chamber and fully sizing it back down should be avoided since you are effectively work-hardening the brass - making it brittle - which may result in a future case rupture.

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