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AIRSOFT!


Rocket35

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Question for some of you that have this pistol.

I recieved my airsoft Friday.

1. when I pull the trigger it goes full auto till it gets down to very little gas presuure.

2. I can only shoot about 10 pellets before it runs out of gas.

3. gas sprays out around the slide and barrel enough to burn your hands.

Have any of you had this problem or did I just get a broken gun. cause right now I would think for the money I got ripped off big time.

It all looks good on video but the one I have is useless. Any thoughts or suggestions.

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My brand new HiCapa is on the way back to Airsplat for repair or replacement. :angry2:

On the first shot the slide locked to the rear. The hammer was catching on the slide. I lubed it and got a few more shots before it went full auto and the hammer wouldn't stay cocked. :blink:

I do have to say Airsplat was very quick to reply to my email and send an RMA number. I have to pay shipping back to them.

Send an email to support@airsplat.com If that's where you got your gun.

I have a Glock airsoft I got from Manny about a year ago. It has run fine ever since. I got a fancy "Race Gun" and it broke. Any comparisons to real life??? :closedeyes: Flex, any comments? :)

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Those of you who experience full auto emptying of the entire magazine, venting gas, and poor cycling should consider the temperature that you are shooting at. Since these run on propane and rely on it expanding from a liquid in the magazine to a gas, they are sensitive to temperature. Generally rapid fire will not work if it's 55* F or less in the shooting area - with each shot, the magazine cools down.

You can shoot them indoors, but not too much if it's not ventilated because you'll get propane in the air. For outdoor use, try warming the magazines after filling them. Some people have success using handwarmers, though I don't have experience with that.

Here are a couple I own/have owned. I am not a fan of the WE copies; I prefer to buy the TM made originals and upgrade the plastic slide to an aluminum one:

imgp22911.jpg

imgp2314.jpg

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smallerlim.jpg

Been in this for a while and happy to answer any questions.

Edited by RSP
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Has anyone used the Mad Bull timer? Would you tell us how well it works and tell us about the poppers that Mad Bull sells. Also who sells reduced size targets?

Here is a link to the targets I use. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=610338

It would seem that the ambient temperature has alot to do with the life and functionability of the unit. Keeping the mags warm is a must while filling them with propane as well. The handwarmer idea sounds like a winner. I usually can run 3-4 drills before needing to put them in my pocket to warm up. It seems I get more life out of them when shooting BBs as apposed to without as well.

I haven't had any problems other than keeping the mags warm with my WE. :unsure:

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Has anyone used the Mad Bull timer? Would you tell us how well it works and tell us about the poppers that Mad Bull sells. Also who sells reduced size targets?

Here is a link to the targets I use. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=610338

It would seem that the ambient temperature has alot to do with the life and functionability of the unit. Keeping the mags warm is a must while filling them with propane as well. The handwarmer idea sounds like a winner. I usually can run 3-4 drills before needing to put them in my pocket to warm up. It seems I get more life out of them when shooting BBs as apposed to without as well.

I haven't had any problems other than keeping the mags warm with my WE. :unsure:

The WE pistols are pretty good these days, and tend to have acceptable reliability. The earliest ones, though, used zinc slides that broke and had sluggish cycling, the hammers sometimes wore out to the point of not engaging with the sear [soft metal], grip safeties didn't ever work, and the pistons weren't great either.

Now, the newest version have cast aluminum slides, better assembly [it seems], better hammers, and aluminum pistons. The Caspian models some of you are getting are rebranded WE's sold under the TSD name with licensed Caspian markings. There is no difference between these and the WE's other than the marking, but you do know for sure that you have a new version pistol if you have a Caspian. Most stores have run out of the old WE's by now so it really doesn't matter much. You do still get problems now and then, though.

I prefer the TM guns since they have better fit and are more accurate, and also are very consistent from gun to gun with snappy cycling and well known reliability. This inherent parts fit and accuracy, as well as the non-railed frame and the slightly better quality of some of the parts that are likely to be kept stock in an upgrade build makes them better for projects in my opinion. Rarely do I leave a pistol in out-of-the-box condition, so that's great for me. If you're looking to keep a gun stock the WE might be better for its metal slide and outer barrel.

As for the Western Arms guns, I am not as happy as I could be with their hop-up system but they are better quality than TM or WE and are available in 4.3/5/6" sizes. Certainly great guns, especially with the addition of a Prime or Shooters Design slide.

Edit: @mcattack:

Full auto firing in normal weather conditions means a look at the disconnector. Check for any strange wear in the sear, hammer, and disconnector, or anything that looks like it broke off. If not that, it's likely that the leaf spring is too weak and needs to be bent a little to put more pressure on the disconnector. Depending on the problem, fixing what's wrong in the trigger mechanism could well fix the hammer catching issue as well.

Also check the slide's blowback unit. The slide is removed in much the same way as a real 1911 slide. You should be able to move the nozzle forward and have it spring back into place. When forward, there's an o-ring visible - is this frayed, chipped, or broken? Your 'ten shots to a fill' problem sounds like an effect of the gas venting problem, rather than an individual issue. Basically, check for leaks in the system, including the magazine.

Edited by RSP
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I live in LA (lower ALABAMA) it does not get cold down here, plus the first mag out of the gun emptied full auto. The hammer did catch alot to. I emailed airsplat but no response yet.

Give Airsplat some time- they are pretty good at getting back to you. They should make things right- maybe you just need to return for an exchange.

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OK, I couldnt help jumping in, sounds solid in theory. I have mine set up as open. I have had some of the same issues as Mcattack has mentioned. I took the dremel to the hammer and bottom section of the slide, solved the "hanging" up issues. Then had to battle the full auto issue, took the backstrap off and adjusted the sear, problem solved. Only thing I can't solve is this thing goes through gas like a holley double pumper!!!!! Attached are some photos and will post a quick movie in the next thread.

Randal

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post-6763-1195529572.jpg

Edited by DrawandDuck
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What is the condition of the drywall behind the targets?

Bill :mellow:

PERFECT :lol: For now anyways. I have only fired approx. 100 rnds at the targets. The metal poppers should be here tomorrow. I plan on putting a quilt/tarp behind them OR I might just leave it and use it as incentive NOT TO MISS!!

Randal

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As for the Western Arms guns, I am not as happy as I could be with their hop-up system but they are better quality than TM or WE and are available in 4.3/5/6" sizes. Certainly great guns, especially with the addition of a Prime or Shooters Design slide. Quote

Can you tell me about the hop up kit. What is it and what does it do? Where can I get one? Who sells the Prime or Shooters design slide?

Edited by PJ BAD
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As for the Western Arms guns, I am not as happy as I could be with their hop-up system but they are better quality than TM or WE and are available in 4.3/5/6" sizes. Certainly great guns, especially with the addition of a Prime or Shooters Design slide. Quote

Can you tell me about the hop up kit. What is it and what does it do? Where can I get one? Who sells the Prime or Shooters design slide?

Hop-up is a feature of virtually all currently produced airsoft guns, so I am talking not about an aftermarket kit, but rather about the system Western Arms has designed for their pistols. Essentially, when you chamber a BB into a gas blowback [GBB] airsoft pistol, it sits in a portion of the chamber just behind the back of the barrel. Directly in front of the BB, where the barrel starts, is a rubber sleeve around the barrel. This is called a 'bucking' (since that is the translation on some airsoft gun manuals, and the name has stuck). The bucking has a small nub inside it, which extends into the top of the barrel slightly.

As the gun fires, the BB hits this small nub and encounters friction on its upper surface, causing backspin. The backspin does not stabilize the BB as a spin along the axis of flight would, but it serves to increase the effective range of the projectile by giving it some upwards force later in its flight. Since most hop-ups can be adjusted to put more, or less pressure on the bucking, you can set them for various weights of BBs that need different levels of hop-up. For example, a .28g BB should have more hop applied than a .2g BB should. The appropriate settting for hop-up is the highest setting that does not result in the BB having an upwards curve in its flight - in other words, the flattest possible trajectory.

So, when comparing hop-up systems, one mainly looks at the means of adjustment. On TM gas guns and their copies, a small, notched wheel in the bottom of the chamber assembly is used to adjust hop-up. This system is nice since it's relatively easy to use, it's repeatable, and it's adequately precise. KSC and Western Arms [WA] hop-ups usually use a rotating metal sleeve around the bucking, which has a curved inclined plane on the inner surface to vary the amount of pressure put on a ball bearing, which is transferred to the bucking. I have not had much success with these systems in getting consistent results at ranges over 70-80'.

There do exist aftermarket parts for hop-ups, but usually they are not replacements for the entire system. Rather, they tend to change just one variable - for example the ball bearing in the KSC-style hop-up. A large selection of buckings are available for most TM guns, since the buckings and inner barrels of their VSR-10, Glock 26/17, Hi-Capa 4.3/5.1 (S_I clone), Mk23, and P226 are interchangeable. For example, a company known variably as Nine Ball, Laylax, or First Factory makes a bucking which uses a special design for a perfect gas seal with the nozzle.

As for the Prime and SD slides, as well as other makes of aftermarket parts of all kinds, I usually buy those from http://www.dentrinityshop.com. Failing that, http://www.uncompany.com and http://www.wgcshop.com are also good options, but DEN Trinity tends to have more pistol parts and is least likely to destroy licensed trademarks upon importing [unco is good about this too as long as you specify it in your order]. It's a matter of what's in stock, since many items like slides are made only in one production run and it's no use waiting for them to get back in stock. In the pictures I posted above, I have a Prime slide on the G34, a G&P slide on the G17, and a Shooters Design slide, comp, and barrel on the S_I.

Edited by RSP
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No problem, glad to help! :)

I do have to go back to my statement about WA pistols being best and make an important clarification. They are much higher quality in external build than the TM/WE guns, and they used to be great internally too. But they changed their firing system and now I would have to go with a TM gun instead for use with propane/green gas.

Previous Western Arms guns using 'SCW2' systems are still available from a few stores and they are very much worth getting, especially with a metal slide to handle propane use better. However, the more recent ones with 'SCW3' type systems have a number of issues with hammer, sear, and firing pin. These issues can cause breakage in rare cases, but nearly always result in 'light strikes', in which the magazine valve is not hit hard enough to release gas.

In short, SCW2 is good all around but a metal slide will hold up better with propane use. SCW3 is still good for use with duster gas or HFC134A gas but not worth the headache when used with propane. Since WA is in Japan, where propane is not used, they most likely do not even recognize this issue.

Edited by RSP
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These are 2 problems I am see with my WE Hi Cappa.

1. Venting of gas / liquid propane - What was happening was the mag was venting liquid propane for the first 2-3 shots per mag. I believe this was happening because when I fill a mag, I do it until I do not hear any more fluid being transfered. this problem is probably because there is insufficent room in the mag for gas to form, so liquid it pushed out.

2. gas valve on mag getting stuck open - This was happenning on 1 mag routinely and would expell all the propane at once. My fix was to put a couple of drops of silicone lub directly on the mag valve itself. So far, it has solved the problem.

3. Rear sight shooting loose - The adjustment screw was shooting loose so I put some blue thread locker on it and then rezeroed and let it dry. It worked.

Edited by toddrod
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I took mine apart tonight, and tried to fit an STI trigger and magwell.

The trigger bow is shaped different at the front, and the grip isn't relieved as much, more of a curve than a 90* angle.

this forces the STI trigger to the rear too much. I tried to reshape it, but decided to put it down and mess with it another time. It's getting late.

DSC00680.jpg

The Airsort detail strips almost just like a real 2011....

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My $94 toy next to the real thing....

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(these pics were taken with my sony w810i cellphone because I'm too lazy to grab a real camera.)

Edited by Derek45
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What is the condition of the drywall behind the targets?

Bill :mellow:

PERFECT :lol: For now anyways. I have only fired approx. 100 rnds at the targets. The metal poppers should be here tomorrow. I plan on putting a quilt/tarp behind them OR I might just leave it and use it as incentive NOT TO MISS!!

Randal

I made a plastic micro-popper a while back for airsoft practice (as seen over in this thread ). Be careful of bouncebacks.

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After reading this thread for a while, I decided to get a couple of WE 5.1 Hi Capa airsoft pistols for Christmas presents. Several members of the family tried my WA SVI and really liked it. Being the tightwad that I am, I thought I'd save a few bucks but still get them a quality airsoft gun.

Best price I could find was a local firm that has them for $69.95. Since it took me more than a month to find someone that really did have a Western Arms SVI in stock, I was afraid that this offer was a little too good to be true and was another "out of date" ad.

It wasn't. I picked them up this afternoon from Kapowwe Company located near Houston, Texas (about a 30 minute drive for me).

Kapowwe is a small and friendly shop that offers pretty good prices on their stuff. Just thought I'd pass it along in case anyone else is in the market for one of these. He has some in stock and can get more pretty quick when those run out.

I mentioned USPSA and Brian's Forum to them, so if you do order one, tell them you are a USPSA member or you saw it on this forum. I'm kinda hoping we might cultivate a dealer that will work with us shooters in USPSA stocking a few guns and parts that we need on occasion.

Thanks.

Bill

http://www.kapowwe.com/Merchant2/merchant....mp;Store_Code=R

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