Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

550 Tips and Tricks


benos

Recommended Posts

[Look at the primer compound... in WSR primers it's green.

[

I'll take your word for it as I've never used them so they couldnt get in there. I use WSPs which look red, and more recently CCI which are kinda yellow (and those i've been using after the I removed the alien crud).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I was having problems with the spent primer chute sticking open when it was supposed to be closed allowing primers to fall straight through.  I changed the pivot pin to a thinner straight pin and added a small refrigerator magnet (the size of a peppermint) to the back side of the chute for added weight.  Seems to work well.

Dillon reps at NRA show last year suggested using a safety pin. The rounded surfaces and hardened steel work far better that cotter pins. Making this change to my 550s has eliminated the sticking chute issues entirely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I just recenntly ran into a simular problem, check and see if the hex screws/bolts holding up the roller bracket shell platform is firmly attached. Mine backed off and caused me major grief, and took me a while to find the problem.

I've read this thread through and through to find some way to figure out why my 45 ACP primers are being loaded at a slight angle.  Racine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
If, while changing shell plates, you drop the ball bearing down the ratzelfrazzin' hole, a 1911 recoil spring is the exact right size to fit in the hole, capture the ball bearing, and pull it back out. How do I know this? Trust me, I know this. :o

Use a small telescoping magnet, the kind auto mechinac use for fishing out bolts and nuts that fell around the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Okay on the primer slide (using small primers right now), the thing is sticking at the pickup point and throwing the primer just about anywhere when it decices to pop loose.

Everything is cleaned and dry-powder moly lubed. AND de-burred. That didn't help. It was doing it before I got a new plastic thingy for the bottom of the primer feed tube (looks kinda like the primer pickup tube, ya know), and still does it with the new one (old one was okay, just got spares when replacing a broken large primer plastic). I've checked the primer feed for full engagement in the slot--it's all the way down. I replaced my metal mushroom-head pin that keeps mulitple primers from feeding with the new plastic one and new metal flat-spring, too. Still does it. Attached the return spring 3/4-inch from its end, to strengthen the pullback. STILL DOES IT!

And, when it's stuck, I've tried putting the ram back all the way up (no double-powder charges!) and found that the primer won't fall into the seating cup without a LOT of downward pressure on the follower--5 lbs or more, based on my "trigger pull" educated finger.

Any tips before I go back and start shining a light and a dental mirror in there??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay on the primer slide (using small primers right now), the thing is sticking at the pickup point and throwing the primer just about anywhere when it decices to pop loose.

Everything is cleaned and dry-powder moly lubed. AND de-burred. That didn't help. It was doing it before I got a new plastic thingy for the bottom of the primer feed tube (looks kinda like the primer pickup tube, ya know), and still does it with the new one (old one was okay, just got spares when replacing a broken large primer plastic). I've checked the primer feed for full engagement in the slot--it's all the way down. I replaced my metal mushroom-head pin that keeps mulitple primers from feeding with the new plastic one and new metal flat-spring, too. Still does it. Attached the return spring 3/4-inch from its end, to strengthen the pullback. STILL DOES IT!

And, when it's stuck, I've tried putting the ram back all the way up (no double-powder charges!) and found that the primer won't fall into the seating cup without a LOT of downward pressure on the follower--5 lbs or more, based on my "trigger pull" educated finger.

Any tips before I go back and start shining a light and a dental mirror in there??

Grump, have you checked to see if your primer punch is fully seated? Remove the primer from the primer cup (if one's there), now rotate the shell carrier mid station and push your handle forward. This compresses the spring/cup. Get in there with an allan wrench and loosen the small screw that holds the primer punch and retighten it while you continue to hold the handle all the way forward. That should fully seat the punch. If the punch isn't fully seated, the cup will be too high and possibly interfere with the pick-up when the primer bar goes back to pick up a primer. Just as a side note, if you're not already doing it, when you load your pick-up tubes, keep them vertical untill your ready to use them, I've stored them on their sides and had all sorts of problems with inverted primers and primer that wanted to feed sideways.

Bronson7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay on the primer slide (using small primers right now), the thing is sticking at the pickup point and throwing the primer just about anywhere when it decices to pop loose.

Everything is cleaned and dry-powder moly lubed. AND de-burred. That didn't help. It was doing it before I got a new plastic thingy for the bottom of the primer feed tube (looks kinda like the primer pickup tube, ya know), and still does it with the new one (old one was okay, just got spares when replacing a broken large primer plastic). I've checked the primer feed for full engagement in the slot--it's all the way down. I replaced my metal mushroom-head pin that keeps mulitple primers from feeding with the new plastic one and new metal flat-spring, too. Still does it. Attached the return spring 3/4-inch from its end, to strengthen the pullback. STILL DOES IT!

And, when it's stuck, I've tried putting the ram back all the way up (no double-powder charges!) and found that the primer won't fall into the seating cup without a LOT of downward pressure on the follower--5 lbs or more, based on my "trigger pull" educated finger.

Any tips before I go back and start shining a light and a dental mirror in there??

Grump, have you checked to see if your primer punch is fully seated? Remove the primer from the primer cup (if one's there), now rotate the shell carrier mid station and push your handle forward. This compresses the spring/cup. Get in there with an allan wrench and loosen the small screw that holds the primer punch and retighten it while you continue to hold the handle all the way forward. That should fully seat the punch. If the punch isn't fully seated, the cup will be too high and possibly interfere with the pick-up when the primer bar goes back to pick up a primer. Just as a side note, if you're not already doing it, when you load your pick-up tubes, keep them vertical untill your ready to use them, I've stored them on their sides and had all sorts of problems with inverted primers and primer that wanted to feed sideways.

Bronson7

Grump do you have the new or old primer ram?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dumping all those quotes...

My primer ram is fully seated. Last night I just plowed through and pulled, pushed, prodded and wiggled the thing until I was done.

Perhaps my primer cup is too low? Here's why. Maybe twice, when the ram was up and the slide seemed to be all the way in the pickup position, and EVERYTHING WAS STILL (I has paused to catch a round rolling out of tray or something), a primer sailed off at about 11:30 and bounced off the ram shaft.

Sometimes it will knock a primer out on the base of the unit AND still have a primer picked up in the cup.

I've cleaned and dry-lubed it again AND cleaned out the primer magazine tube and gone back to the steel pin that holds the primer column up when the cup is picking up.

My primer slide is so old it is hollow on the bottom and has no "chevrons" or nuthin'. Also ran a file along all four sides of the slide.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Okay on the primer slide (using small primers right now), the thing is sticking at the pickup point and throwing the primer just about anywhere when it decices to pop loose.

I'm not sure if this is the same as I was experiencing, it sounds the same or similar. My primer slide would stick or stop just beore the primer pick up. Nothing blocking it either. I thought about shortening the spring or bending the rod that it rolls on but I thought something else is up. I disassembled the primer feed system. I found that aluminum piece or rails that the bolts go into from the bottom of the press to hold it all up was bulging in the rail area in the same spot the bolt threads in causing a bulge in the rail so the slide would drag on it because it was slightly narrower. I used a dremel to sand it down then polished it all up and it works fine now.

I don’t know if I over tightened the bolts causing the aluminum to bulge or if it has been that way since new and is now catching since coating is wearing off the primer slides.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Problem with 1050 not seating small primers deep enough. Mostly gets the them just flush with the case head. Took everything down and cleaned. Any suggestions?

Problem with 1050 not seating small primers deep enough. Mostly gets the them just flush with the case head. Took everything down and cleaned. Any suggestions?

Sorry but I need to correct the above. It is a 550B I have a 1050 and just input the wrong number.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

After a reloading session I use the primer follower rod to push a couple of alchol wipes through the primer magazine. I've only done this with the large primer magazine, but it sure works at picking up a lot of priming dust and I feel it is well worth the trouble to keep dwn the risk of an AD.

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

The spent primer catcher staying open is due to the split pin that holds the flap on being extremely soft and getting bent. I too had the problem of primers shooting straight through the catcher, if that pins gets just a little out of shape it stops the flap from opening and closing. Spend a few cents on a new pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The primer slide sticking can also be caused by the flat bearing plate which is located under the primer slide, having the coating worn off of it. If like me you have run several thousand round through it the caoting becomes less affective, also stray powder seems to be able to find it way to the primer slide area, and gums the action up very easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 650 Dillon has a chute for unused live primers. Problem is that the live primers usually hit the floor. I solved the problem with a small binder clip (they are usually used in lieu of a paper clip) attached at the end of the chute. They stop the primers and hold them until you are ready to remove them. Move the clips arms out of the way of the press handle and start cranking.

I use another small binder clip on the side of the spent primer collection box. It keeps the box in place and the old primers drop right in.

Take a forty-five case and glue or tape a bullet to the head. slide it over your primer rod follower for positive pressure on your primers while loading.

Buddy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Cheap bullet tray & wrench holder for 550B

I needed a bullet tray that was removable, held a fair amount, and was cheap. My 550B AKRO bin is both the perfect size and removable. You likely have all the materials on hand for the 550B so cost is $0.

Residual 550B bench mount finished bullet bracket (aluminum) with structure cut off back. 7" long 2x4 cut at angle and lag bolted to strong mount from inside leg. Bracket screwed to front of wood and holes drilled for allen wrenches behind. Spray flat black and you're GTG.

BulletBracket.jpg

Look closely and you'll see a rubber band around the aluminum primer actuator rod housing and rod. This helps keep the actuator rod from walking out of the hole. A drop of oil in hole is a good idea. Also, an empty .45acp or 45 Colt case will fit on the head of the primer follower rod perfectly. Gives it a bit more weight and looks good too.

100_1768.jpg

Wood powder measure knobs:

Take 2" hole saw and drill in 1/4" thick hardwood. Drop 1/2" hex head bolt in center hole and mark head shape. Take Exacto knife and cut out shape for press on fit. Paint knob, file notch in top edge, mark notch with white crayon, and press on to powder measure adjustment bolt. Print label on self stick printer label and apply.

PowderMeasureKnob.jpg

Primer Assy. Stand:

A 2nd Primer assys make changing out primer sizes a quick treat. I made these stands from scrap stock I had laying around. Mark your assy (small or large) so you don't forget which is which.

Spare primer assy makes primer size change a 20 second effort. The assy was like $30 and even though Dillon doesn't list it, they will sell you a setup. Buy the flat bearing plate too and mount with 2 screws to the housing to keep assy together when off the press.

TubeStand.jpg

PrimerTubeandStand.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dillon trimmer mods

I can't leave well enough alone so I decided that the switch box on the trimmer should live on an open space on the back of my XL 650 press (this will work for your 550 as well) between the 2 rear mounting bolts where it would be easy to reach and up off the bench. In addition, I shortened the power cable to pair it with the casefeed cable run to my outlet.

G.jpg

A better view showing my fabricated mounting bracket with it between the 2 rear mounting bolts. It is solid as a rock and worked out really well.

I.jpg

After mounting and adjusting the trimmer (straightforward), I cut a 2½" long piece of old shop vac wand and after rasping out one end, pushed it on the Dillon chip collar. Fits tight and makes attaching the vacuum a cinch. The red box highlights a wood 'collar stay' I made and will discuss below.

J.jpg

I fired it up and started trimming. After a bit I noticed that the Dillon collar (Blue plastic collar that the vacuum hose attaches to) would ride up from the weight of the cantilevered vacuum hose attachment. This would let the brass shavings escape from the trimmer head. I noticed this when a brass sliver bounced off my glasses. A quick once over and I realized that the collar needed to be held down for proper and safe operation so I took a piece of scrap plywood and cut a circular 'collar stay' and slipped it on. Works like a charm.

K.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Take 2" hole saw and drill in 1/4" thick hardwood. Drop 1/2" hex head bolt in center hole and mark head shape. Take Exacto knife and cut out shape for press on fit. Paint knob, file notch in top edge, mark notch with white crayon, and press on to powder measure adjustment bolt. Print label on self stick printer label and apply.

PowderMeasureKnob.jpg

Or if you are lazy go to home depot and get $0.85 plastic knobs to put on the measure knobs

06_25_0.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Dillon 550 primer problem resolved!

I was having problems with the primer slide sticking. I was having to nudge it to get it to get it to fully extend for it to pick up a new primer. I polished the slide, used alcohol, the lock spray and it would work for a few strokes then it would fail to pick up the primer again. I noticed that the slide was cocking a little to my left. The roller pin on the primer slide roller had pulled out 1/8”, or so and the roller was not in line with the operating rod. I used a small clamp to squeeze the roller pin back in. It has not failed to pick up a primer in 500 loads.

I probably caused the problem. I have removed and cleaned the slide about a dozen times (10,000 rnds loaded). I assume that I got a little too rambunctious in my cleaning and pushed the roller pin out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
Take 2" hole saw and drill in 1/4" thick hardwood. Drop 1/2" hex head bolt in center hole and mark head shape. Take Exacto knife and cut out shape for press on fit. Paint knob, file notch in top edge, mark notch with white crayon, and press on to powder measure adjustment bolt. Print label on self stick printer label and apply.

PowderMeasureKnob.jpg

Or if you are lazy go to home depot and get $0.85 plastic knobs to put on the measure knobs

06_25_0.jpg

Great idea! I'm going to rig up that mod on my 550's powder drop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
Take 2" hole saw and drill in 1/4" thick hardwood. Drop 1/2" hex head bolt in center hole and mark head shape. Take Exacto knife and cut out shape for press on fit. Paint knob, file notch in top edge, mark notch with white crayon, and press on to powder measure adjustment bolt. Print label on self stick printer label and apply.

PowderMeasureKnob.jpg

Or if you are lazy go to home depot and get $0.85 plastic knobs to put on the measure knobs

06_25_0.jpg

Great idea! I'm going to rig up that mod on my 550's powder drop.

Anyone know where to get those plastic knobs any more? I have been to 3 Home Depots and 2 Lowe's with no luck :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know where to get those plastic knobs any more? I have been to 3 Home Depots and 2 Lowe's with no luck

Despite what others have said, I've probably been to a dozen stores in my area and none of them have them.

However, I found that I had an old (metric) socket set I don't use and one of the sockets fit it just fine. That gives me something of a good size to grip and when not in use, it fits over a bolt head in the frame. Elegant it ain't but who cares.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...



×
×
  • Create New...