ddj8052 Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Mods if this is in the wrong forum I would appreciate it if it could be moved. Thank you. We had an AP meeting last night (Hogue Action Pistol Range in Morro Bay, CA) and we were all asked to come up with ideas for replaceing our very heavy and cumbersome walls with something that is lighter and easier to move around, hopefully by one person. I figured I would pool the vast resources of this forum to see what you all might have already tried and found to work well. If you also have any pictures that would be very helpfull. Thank you all for any ideas on the subject. Juan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerba Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Use 2x4s for a frame and use mesh for the actual walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ Bagger Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Are you in a windy area? If so, sticking with the 2x4's is probably a good idea. We use mesh and/or snow fence materials as winds in ECO can be ferocious. If winds are mile or moderate, making a wall out of mesh/screen/snow fence and 2x2's with triangles in the corners will be a dream come true compared to the plywood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GentlemanJim Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Frames from PVC pipe snow fence and zip ties....low weight, low drag in wind very low cost. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidball Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 . . . making a wall out of mesh/screen/snow fence and 2x2's with triangles in the corners will be a dream come true compared to the plywood. +1 I would add a 2x2 center support attached with 3" screws and triangle gussets . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranDoc Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 We're just starting to experiment with something here -- PVC pipe frame, made into a rectangle. This attaches to 'feet' made of PVC pipe, but filled with concrete for stability. The feet can be detached from the rectangular frame. Snow fence stretched over the frame, attached with zip ties, ports cut into the snow fence in '3-sided flap' fashion so the flap can be closed. Therefore, variable ports. We have the corrugated plastic cor-plast in 4' x 8' sheets. This can also be attached to the PVC frame over the snow fence (zip ties through metal grommets, prevents the zip ties from pulling through the plastic) to provide a more opaque vision barrier. The club shoots both IDPA & USPSA, the above arrangement for snow fence AND cor-plast accommodates the needs of both styles of shooting. Another advantage to the PVC pipe/snow fence/cor-plast arrangement is that a lot of our props have to live outside year-round. Those three materials are fairly weather-durable. Another option, made by a couple of local LEO's: www.target-stands.com. This provides a rigid, stable, sturdy frame that plywood or cor-plast can be attached to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 If you make a trip to shoot Norco Run & Gun, they use wooden frames with snow fencing. They have a separate stands that they hang the walls off of using hooks and eyelets. Sure beats driving big stakes into the ground and screwing the wall to the stakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Throwin Lead Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 I'm a member of the Pitcarin-Monroeville Sportsman's Club home this year's Area 8 Match. We use walls made of 2 X 3's & 1/4 " luan plywood. Light weight & easy to handle. We build a 4 x 8 frame using air powered tools for the frame & plywood. (staple gun to attach the luan) We drill 1/2" holes in the base to use 10" landscape spikes to drive in the ground. Knee braces are required to stabilize - also made of 2 x 3 & fastened to walls with 3" deck screws & 10" landscape spikes. We buy "oops" paint from Home Depot or Lowes for cheap ($5.00/gal) and paint the walls with the color d'jour. Paint helps to keep the rain from destroying the walls & gives the COF a bit of a bizarre Martha Stewart look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 I am the prop guy at our club. I have built two different types of walls and here my opinion on both. I think it depends on how you store your walls. We have a trailer that we keep all of our props in. We pull it down range and set up out of the trailer. Our walls are stored on end(the 8'way) and we slide them into their slot. Those walls are 2x2's with 1/2" OSB. They get beat up going in and out of the trailer but they are rugged enough that it doesn't hurt them. We also have a ton of walls made with 2x2's and snow fence stapled to the 2x2. We use these when we have the section match or any other big match where we need a ton of walls. The snow fence is nice and light but not durable enough to slide in and out of the trailer on a monthly basis. It is also harder to do ports with the snow fence. Usually we use the snow fence for solid walls and the plywood if we need a port. When we need new walls I think I am going to use the 4x8 sheets of the corrugated plastic. Durable yet light enough to move around. And easy to cut a port in and screw some 2x2 around it to beef it up. Also pretty good looking, don't have to paint etc. Some guys don't like the snow fence because you can see through it. just my $.02 Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaJoe Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Here's what I came up with. We used 2x2's because they were cheap and light. They are six feet high and eight feet long. Some are four feet long but the same height. I then stapled that orange fence stuff from Home Depot on to it. On the corners I got some nice wood and made triangles as brackets. The wind goes right through them and one person can move as many as he/she can carry. To make them stand up we had some square tubing that the wood would fit into that we cut to about 12 inches. We welded that to a piece of "C" channel with holes drilled into it for stakes. I don't have any pics of those but they worked out well. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear23 Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Where do you guys buy corrugated plastic at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ Bagger Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Home Despot out in CO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpowe Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Where do you guys buy corrugated plastic at? Bear, My English teacher said you should never end a sentence with a preposition... so you should have said: Where at do you guys buy corrugated plastic? ps - I don't have a clue where to buy the plastic, sorry. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ Bagger Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Where do you guys buy corrugated plastic at? Bear, My English teacher said you should never end a sentence with a preposition... so you should have said: Where at do you guys buy corrugated plastic? ps - I don't have a clue where to buy the plastic, sorry. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrguar Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 One of the clubs I shoot at has a ready supply of plastic sign material(like the stuff you see all over the roads around election time), it makes great/light/waterproof barricades/walls...etc. Staple it up to some light frame work and you have what you need, nice thing about it is you don't have to paint it, it doesn't splinter or get shot to pieces by guys with comps and scrap and left overs may be available from your local sign shop for a very reasonable cost like maybe you are doing them a favor by taking it. Give a call to some local sign shops and be nice Good Luck, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Our club built metal frames out of 5/8" square tube. They are 4 x 8 and have 2 foot legs. We put the 4x8 sheets of Corplast (sign material) on them for lightweight walls. The bases are made from three 6" 3/4" tubes welded upright on a flat 18" square plate of 1/4 in steel. We have also drilled holes in the bases for spikes when the wind is blowing. They are pretty portable and we replace the corplast every 2-3 years. Here are some pictures of the stage we set up at the Alabama Sectional this spring. As you can see, you can even get your stage sponsor's name on the sign material. The last picture is of several members of our club. I be the first one on the left kneeling. FWIW dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ Bagger Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Must be nice to be able to shoot where the wind never gets above a sexy whisper in the ear. Them thar walls wouldn't last half a windy day on the eastern plains of CO, steel legs or not! Makes for pretty walls though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaJoe Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Must be nice to be able to shoot where the wind never gets above a sexy whisper in the ear. Them thar walls wouldn't last half a windy day on the eastern plains of CO, steel legs or not!Makes for pretty walls though. Thats the same thing that I had to consider when making my walls. The wind in the CA desert really sucked. Our club is in a pit so the wind just swirls around down there. Dajarrel those walls really are nice looking though. How long did they last? The orange stuff can be found at The Home Depot for 20 bucks. I think it was 4' by 100'. It's in the lumber section. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddj8052 Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 Guys, Thank you for all the great help. Please keep the suggestions coming. For those that asked, our range is subject to strong winds. We will be looking at all of these ideas, hopefully something here will work for us. Thanks again, Juan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Must be nice to be able to shoot where the wind never gets above a sexy whisper in the ear. Them thar walls wouldn't last half a windy day on the eastern plains of CO, steel legs or not!Makes for pretty walls though. Thats the same thing that I had to consider when making my walls. The wind in the CA desert really sucked. Our club is in a pit so the wind just swirls around down there. Dajarrel those walls really are nice looking though. How long did they last? The orange stuff can be found at The Home Depot for 20 bucks. I think it was 4' by 100'. It's in the lumber section. Joe Actually when placed at right angles to each other and spiked with two 12" spikes on each base they are pretty sturdy. I'm sure in a high wind environment they would be toast. Joe, even after hurricane Katrina re-arranged our shooting bays and all the props, all we had to do is pick them up and put them back on the stand we have built for them. As far as deterioration, they are made of outdoor sign material and when we replace them(which we did for the state match) it is usually because we have cut too many ports and have too many char marks from muzzle blast on them. dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Around here we use stockade fencing with braces. They are not that light, but they would be lighter then plywood. They are fairly wind resistent and they are weather resitant. Not to mention you don't need to assemble them, which may take some time if you need to build 50 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 I see a lot of the plastic mesh stuff around here. I personally don't like them as you can see through them and use the visual info for your entry. Solid walls that you can't see through are better. Try these guys for corrugated plastic. http://packandseal.com/CorrugatedPlastic.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 Around here we use stockade fencing with braces. They are not that light, but they would be lighter then plywood. They are fairly wind resistent and they are weather resitant. Not to mention you don't need to assemble them, which may take some time if you need to build 50 or so. And the shaved flat stockade fencing is a bit lighter than the usual convex stuff..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gino_aki Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 (edited) Too tired to figger out how to work the Insert Post link but it's Match Management > Pre-Match > Target Design > New Walls ...Post #31 Edited August 25, 2007 by gino_aki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 (edited) 2x4 frame covered with bed sheets or PVC tarps. Edited August 25, 2007 by RePete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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