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So You Want a Sub 2# Glock Trigger


Joe D
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How old is your LWD connector? Some of the early ones had the "lip" too high. Try a Glock or Scherer 3.5.

It is brand new, bought it last week. I noticed that if I push the trigger forward just a hair it will reset.........

Edited by hal1955
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I thought you said it would not release the striker. If the TB is not catching the striker then chances are you have bent the spring tab too far forward. Do you have one of the 1/2 size plates for your slide so you can watch what is happening?

Make sure that the trigger pad is not dragging on the bottom of the frame.

BTW here is a tip for those that might not have a vertical mill. If you mount one of the inexpensive vises, that has left to right and front to rear adjustments, on your drill press then you can just attach a dial indicator to accurately measure hole placement.

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I thought you said it would not release the striker. If the TB is not catching the striker then chances are you have bent the spring tab too far forward. Do you have one of the 1/2 size plates for your slide so you can watch what is happening?

Make sure that the trigger pad is not dragging on the bottom of the frame.

BTW here is a tip for those that might not have a vertical mill. If you mount one of the inexpensive vises, that has left to right and front to rear adjustments, on your drill press then you can just attach a dial indicator to accurately measure hole placement.

I used the orange half plate and noticed that the nose of the trigger bar would not click under the raised edge ofLWD 3.5 connector. It worked fine with the Glock 5 and 8# but would not slip under the LWd so I took a few thou off the edge of the LWD and now the nose of the trigger bar clicks under it and it works fine. Thanks for all the tips and advice.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

First of all, let me say a big thanks to Joe D for offering up this valuble information and to all the folks who chimed in with their advice and pictures, thanks to you as well.

Here's my dilemma... So far, I have removed the trigger pad, relocated the holes on the pad and the trigger bar, and bent the trigger spring tab to .830" from the nose. I used a 1/16" bit only to realize the pin that was holding the trigger pad in place will not fit through the new holes. Joe, Woody Allen, anyone... what are yall using to reattach the pad to the bar. I assume the pin needs to be stainless, but I just have no idea what to get or where to get it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edited by boudin
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  • 9 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...

Completed the mod successfully today on a few month old gen 3 G17.

Pin located with a tap from a center punch to mark the spot and then pushed out with a fly tying bodkin, leaving just a needle hole. Pin moved .135 up the trigger, in a similar position to Joe D's image. Pin hole relocated .135 up the trigger bar. I didn't adjust the trigger return portion of the trigger bar. Hole drilled in seconds at 500 rpms. Trigger bar hole plugged with a section of 2mm CF rod. This trigger bar was from spares I purchased 1-2 years ago.

Trigger pull dropped from 3# 3oz (Glock 3.5/4.5 with chopped factory spring) to 2# 10 oz. I notd a slight rub mark from the tab on the trigger bar inside the slide. This was relieved by grinding off a thousandth and polishing. Also noted that the trigger bar, at the forward S curve has barely notched the inside of the frame at its most forward travel. Drilling the hole closer than .135 would have minimized this, but required more material removal at the FPS safety tab of the trigger bar. Trigger bar/striker overlap appear unchanged. No need to trim the trigger pad safety.

I noted a slight decrease in pre-travel. Over-travel and reset feel similar. 150 uneventful rounds followed at the range. This mod is a nice improvement. I'll probably swap in the 5.5 pound connector for crisper break at a now reasonable pull weight. I've always found the 3.5/4.5 mushy--at any weight.

Thanks Joe D!

Edited by Grandfather Glock
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  • 4 weeks later...

I am using a Vanek Trigger System (all parts) in my G-35. Nice trigger with limited travel, over and reset. However, have had a problem with the trigger returning to the set/firing position (TB-sear is on striker leg and pre-set as should be). Changed from an Extra Power trigger spring to a stock Glock spring and all functions returned. Only issue, soft pressure on trigger and finger after shot. Need to consciouslly let off trigger. There is no gentle forward pressuer reminder.

kat9lives

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Question for JoeD and other Glock mechanics. Does relocating the trigger post/pin, the .120" up the arm, require any adjustmrnts (reduced length) to the trigger-bars "cross bars"? Those extensions that fit into the travel slot and connector.

katt9lives

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I am using a Vanek Trigger System (all parts) in my G-35. Nice trigger with limited travel, over and reset. However, have had a problem with the trigger returning to the set/firing position (TB-sear is on striker leg and pre-set as should be). Changed from an Extra Power trigger spring to a stock Glock spring and all functions returned. Only issue, soft pressure on trigger and finger after shot. Need to consciouslly let off trigger. There is no gentle forward pressuer reminder.

kat9lives

Charlie recommends the OEM trigger spring in his trigger kits.

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Got my Glock trigger down to 2.5Lbs's. I used a LS firing pin, old style trigger, extra power spring, over-travel stop, LS plunger / safety, Glockworx V3 connector, and I did quite a bit of polishing and smoothing out the trigger bar and connector with a set of gunsmith stones.

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just read through all the posts here, wow!! it was only a two pages when i first read it and that was before i joined. I did this to my 34 a few years back and it does work. thanks joeD! If you want to meet half way I will buy you dinner in Anniston some day.

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  • 2 months later...

Well, after reading this whole thread, I decided to at least replace my springs and install an overtravel set screw. I did all that to my gen 4 model 34 and now with a bit of tweaking to the trigger bar have a really nice 2 lb, 8-10 oz trigger that sets in about half the distance! No overtravel is nicer that I thought it would be. Really cool on follow up pulls. I think I'm going to get a glockworx extended and lightened striker just as insurance to ftf's. BTW, the one thing that I overlooked for about an hour was the difference it made just cleaning up and polishing the sear. It took a significant amount of gritty feel and about 8 ounces out of the trigger. Thx for everyone who has posted in this thread..

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  • 3 years later...

Thanks to the excellent info in this thread, I finally got around to re-loacating the pivot point in my G41. I've always done trigger pull lightening on small frame Glocks in the past and have been fairly happy achieving 3.5 to 4.0 lb trigger pulls with just connectors and springs. However, my G41 is the 3rd large frame model that I have had an opportunity to drop the same parts combination in, but large frames for me just end up at about 1 lb heavier pulls than what I have obtained with small frames.

On my G41, I already have been running the Ghost 3.3 lb connector with the trim to fit overtravel tab along with a 5 lb striker spring, 6 lb Wolff trigger spring, and a Lightning Strike Striker. I had to go to the light striker and 5 lb striker spring in order to have 100% ignition with Remington LPP. Trigger pull after these mods came in at 4lbs-10oz, but this weight causes me fits at speed as compared to the lighter 3lb-10oz pull on my G34.

I started off with some layout work. I decided to work with the as factory shoe and bar in order to have the stock geometry in place to make a reference mark. With the slide off the frame and the trigger bar to the rear against my overtravel stop, I slightly pulled the trigger forward for a little insurance room and scribed a line against the inside of the trigger bar right along and behind the trigger shoe. This line let me be able to take the shoe and bar out of the frame and still be able to ID the trigger bar to shoe angle at the point of trigger break. With the rear part of the trigger flat against one jaw of my drill press cross vise. I aligned my drill bit with the factory pivot pin. With a dial indicator on the side of the vise, I dialed in .125" of travel, While drilling the new hole higher in the trigger shoe, I held the trigger bar at the angle indicated by my earlier scribe mark. When I punched through the first side of the plastic shoe, I was able to make a mark on the trigger bar at the shoe to bar angle that represented the trigger break angle. I then removed the trigger bar from the shoe and center punched the drill bit mark for the new hole. I then drilled the new bar hole and ground the old hole area off. Re-assmebled everything with the new hole location and ended up with a 3lb-10oz pull with perfect function and all safeties intact. The back of the trigger shoe just barely contacts the frame at the same timing that the trigger bar makes contact with my existing overtravel stop. Good thing for the little bit of insurance I accounted for earler! I can't wait to get to the range and try it out! Thanks Joe D and all the others that contributed to this thread!

Edited by gigamortis
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Thanks to the excellent info in this thread, I finally got around to re-loacating the pivot point in my G41. I've always done trigger pull lightening on small frame Glocks in the past and have been fairly happy achieving 3.5 to 4.0 lb trigger pulls with just connectors and springs. However, my G41 is the 3rd large frame model that I have had an opportunity to drop the same parts combination in, but large frames for me just end up at about 1 lb heavier pulls than what I have obtained with small frames.

On my G41, I already have been running the Ghost 3.3 lb connector with the trim to fit overtravel tab along with a 5 lb striker spring, 6 lb Wolff trigger spring, and a Lightning Strike Striker. I had to go to the light striker and 5 lb striker spring in order to have 100% ignition with Remington LPP. Trigger pull after these mods came in at 4lbs-10oz, but this weight causes me fits at speed as compared to the lighter 3lb-10oz pull on my G34.

I started off with some layout work. I decided to work with the as factory shoe and bar in order to have the stock geometry in place to make a reference mark. With the slide off the frame and the trigger bar to the rear against my overtravel stop, I slightly pulled the trigger forward for a little insurance room and scribed a line against the inside of the trigger bar right along and behind the trigger shoe. This line let me be able to take the shoe and bar out of the frame and still be able to ID the trigger bar to shoe angle at the point of trigger break. With the rear part of the trigger flat against one jaw of my drill press cross vise. I aligned my drill bit with the factory pivot pin. With a dial indicator on the side of the vise, I dialed in .125" of travel, While drilling the new hole higher in the trigger shoe, I held the trigger bar at the angle indicated by my earlier scribe mark. When I punched through the first side of the plastic shoe, I was able to make a mark on the trigger bar at the shoe to bar angle that represented the trigger break angle. I then removed the trigger bar from the shoe and center punched the drill bit mark for the new hole. I then drilled the new bar hole and ground the old hole area off. Re-assmebled everything with the new hole location and ended up with a 3lb-10oz pull with perfect function and all safeties intact. The back of the trigger shoe just barely contacts the frame at the same timing that the trigger bar makes contact with my existing overtravel stop. Good thing for the little bit of insurance I accounted for earler! I can't wait to get to the range and try it out! Thanks Joe D and all the others that contributed to this thread!

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