Very Noobie Reloading Question

[sifu128]

Hey everybody!! I am new to reloading and I have a few questions for the experts here . I have read all of the posts here with regards to the 550 and 650 and both have great arguments. For myself I am going to get the 650 package so I can just get everything one time and grow in to it. I will be reloading about 1000 - 1500 rounds per month so I think this will be a very good choice, however this is where I need help.

Right now my main competition gun is a glock 19 and I haven't gone to topglock to get my replacement barrel yet (but I will soon). With that being said I know I need to load fmj (copper) to avoid destroying the barrel.

For reloading the 9mm what is everybody using for components (powder, primers, etc)? I do shoot IDPA and the rest is mostly plinking. I am sure that because I am shooting competition I will want to use different powders.

Please be gentle, lol

[mjbine]

Hey everybody!! I am new to reloading and I have a few questions for the experts here . I have read all of the posts here with regards to the 550 and 650 and both have great arguments. For myself I am going to get the 650 package so I can just get everything one time and grow in to it. I will be reloading about 1000 - 1500 rounds per month so I think this will be a very good choice, however this is where I need help.

Right now my main competition gun is a glock 19 and I haven't gone to topglock to get my replacement barrel yet (but I will soon). With that being said I know I need to load fmj (copper) to avoid destroying the barrel.

For reloading the 9mm what is everybody using for components (powder, primers, etc)? I do shoot IDPA and the rest is mostly plinking. I am sure that because I am shooting competition I will want to use different powders.

Please be gentle, lol

Save up for the 1050 and never look back again. You don't need to shoot fmj. You can use moly coated lead without harming your glock. I shoot them for major and minor with a glock 35 stock barrel. www.precisionbullets.com They are much cheaper than fmj. As far as powder, Universal Clays, Clays, Titegroup, and a lot of others. Federal primers if you can find them or Winchester.

Good luck

Mike

[Matt Griffin]

First, you won't destroy the barrel, it's a myth. You will have to clean it quite a bit more, so if you don't want to deal with that, then you still need to shoot FMJ. I have 20k rounds through my G35, the barrel is pristine.

Second, if you have a powder/load for IDPA, then that's the load to use for USPSA. You're looking for reliable and affordable, not precision grouping. Most folks use Titegroup, from what I've gathered. It's dirty, but cheap and easy to use.

Primers, Winchester is a good choice for availability vs. cost vs. performance.

Finally, with the 650, the most important thing starting out is learning how to disable it when something goes wrong, so you aren't spraying cases and primers everywhere while working on it. Check out the Dillon Equipment thread for tips.

H.

[oraysor]

Just started loading 9 mm also for a race type gun. I have had very good results with Hodgdon HS-6 and win. primersloading.pdf Maybe the attached information will help you get started..

Edited August 15, 2007 by oraysor

[sifu128]

Very cool guys and I really appreciate it . From what I had gathered the Winchester primers are the way to go. I downloaded the manual for the 650 last night and have been giving it a good read. For the most part it all seems pretty straight forward for dismantling. I have also been up on youtube and watched a few very good videos on reloading and assembly / disassembly.

Houngan - With regards to the powder/load I don't have one as yet. I am trying to see what I can do to minimize recoil with out sacrificing my accuracy too much. From what I am gathering I can see if I keep a good grip however keep the muzzle down I will do a bit better.

What I was thinking about trying was not using the Winchester White Box (USA) for my matches (hence the reloading). Right now the wwb has the following specs:

115 gr. USA Full Metal Jacket

Distance (yds) Velocity (fps) Energy (ft.lbs.) Mid-Range Trajectory (in.)

Muzzle 1190 362

If I am doing my match right to get the power floor it is as follows: 115 * 1190 = 136,850. SSP which is what I am shooting requires SSP to be at a minimum of 125,000.

So the big question becomes which is the best way? Less grain and heavier bullet (124 g), powder etc.

Now, with regards to the bullets just so I understand this. For now I can reload and use Molly coated bullets? I clean my glock every time I shoot so I have no problem there as I would rather be safe then sorry. I will need to read up on Molly coated bullets.

For my last question with regards to the Titegroup powder being dirty, can some one elaborate on that? Do you see more gun powder when you are shooting, etc

TIA

Dave

[Merlin Orr]

Buy you a cheap replacement barrel, 8# of Titegroup and a case of 124 Precision Black Bullets (3000) with Win. small pistol primers. Shoot until gone and repeat as needed.

A good solid combination at a good bang for the buck ratio.

[sifu128]

Buy you a cheap replacement barrel, 8# of Titegroup and a case of 124 Precision Black Bullets (3000) with Win. small pistol primers. Shoot until gone and repeat as needed.

A good solid combination at a good bang for the buck ratio.

Holy smokes, 3000 bullets for 157.00 bucks, 60 bucks for primers and about 150 for brass. Talk about bringing down the cost when you are paying almost 250.00 for everything to reload that many.

Now what is the best way to break that down for each round for a cost savings. From those numbers I can see it is already 1/2 the cost of what wwb is

[Merlin Orr]

Buy you a cheap replacement barrel, 8# of Titegroup and a case of 124 Precision Black Bullets (3000) with Win. small pistol primers. Shoot until gone and repeat as needed.

A good solid combination at a good bang for the buck ratio.

Holy smokes, 3000 bullets for 157.00 bucks, 60 bucks for primers and about 150 for brass. Talk about bringing down the cost when you are paying almost 250.00 for everything to reload that many.

Now what is the best way to break that down for each round for a cost savings. From those numbers I can see it is already 1/2 the cost of what wwb is

Cost Calculator

[sifu128]

Thank you

[jasond]

new brass? boy aren't you fancy!

i shoot revo though and always take home more than i brought!

figure maybe 2 lbs powder for all them bullets. 7000 grs = 1 lb

also, i do some trial runs first because you don't want to be stuck with a bunch of components that aren't really working out- too much smoke, no accuracy, leading, won't cycle, etc. i would imagine that the guys on this forum have some pretty good glock loads, though. good luck!

jsd

[fatcat]

Merlin Orr's suggestion is good. I use that bullet and power for my production loads. If and when you want to go open, you are already set.

[sifu128]

New brass, oh no, lol I want to save some cash. I am now getting smart and try to pick up every single 9mm case I can find when I am at the range

[standles]

Now what is the best way to break that down for each round for a cost savings. From those numbers I can see it is already 1/2 the cost of what wwb is

Ahhhh but the evil that lurks behind the wall is that you will shot 2 or 3 times as many now so the realized cost savings ins a wash or worse none LOL

[sifu128]

Now what is the best way to break that down for each round for a cost savings. From those numbers I can see it is already 1/2 the cost of what wwb is

Ahhhh but the evil that lurks behind the wall is that you will shot 2 or 3 times as many now so the realized cost savings ins a wash or worse none LOL

With that being said is there really any cost savings ? LOL I know my first box just cost me about 1200 bucks, LOL