Reloading 223

[HiCapMag]

ok gang, tired of looking for too expensive 223 ammo that I cant find anyway -- time to reload.

I have a 650 and I intend to reload full progressive (or as close as I can get). Mainly making hoser ammo here so not concerned about things like cleaning primer pockets.

How do you load 223?

What dies?

I see Dillon has carbide 223 size dies, but they say you still need to lube your cases -- do you?

If you lube cases and resize, do you keep going, or take out resized case and toss it in the tumbler to clean, then start over?

Thanks for any input.

[Derek45]

Case prep is a bitch.

Lube is a must, other wise you'll get cases stuck in the size die.

I resize, trim, chamfer first.

then I run them thru the DILLON (minus the size die)

[HiCapMag]

Thanks.

Also, what powder are you running, and do you use regular Dillon powder measure set up.

[DHTampa]

Thanks.

Also, what powder are you running, and do you use regular Dillon powder measure set up.

Varget works for me but it isn't the only one out there. I use the Dillon powder measure for the close range stuff but use a single stage Redding with competition dies and an RCBS Chargemaster for the longrange (greater than 200m).

Donn

Edited July 16, 2007 by DHTampa

[HiCapMag]

Varget would be a winner as I use that in my 308.

DHTampa, what dies are you using on the Dillon?

[Derek45]

I use surplus WC846 (or win 748) for 55gr., and Varget for heavy bullets.

The Winchester Ball powder meters VERY well thru the DILLON powder measure. It's somewhat temperature sensitive, but at 10-100 yards, who cares.

The VARGET meters like corn flakes, but it works better for 69-77gr. match bullets.

I use LEE dies and DILLON case Lube.

Edited July 16, 2007 by Derek45

[redmercury2]

The dillon carbide sizer and a case lube make a big plus as compared to a standard die. Much easier to size and more consistency.

Trim cases once after first firing,GIRARD TRIMMER is the bomb.

I use WINCHESTER brass ,its hard with good volume and no primer crimp to hassle with.

AA2230 with 55 gr. HORNADY FMJ for short range.

VARGET AA2520, 4895, for long range with SIERRA 77gr.

HARRELL powder measure ror accuracy, does take a lot of time though.

REDDING competition bullet seater is the best.

GOOD SHOOTING.

[uscbigdawg]

Dillon dies all around on the XL650. Dillon lube works great. I started with once fired and new brass, trimmed and reamed the pockets on all of them (the once fired stuff for the pockets) and then just got to loading everything.

Throw it in the hopper after spraying and tossing with Dillon lube and knock 'em out. Tumble when done.

For my normal and accurate load, 69gr. SMK's and Varget (.25-.3 MOA).

For my plinker loads, 55gr. FMJ's and H335 or W748 (.5-.7 MOA).

Rich

[Carlos]

Few more Q.s if anyone can lend a hand:

I have the Lee die set around here someplace w/ the Lee FCD; any of you skip the crimp w/ the AR? Any issues?

Understand that Dillon makes the only Carbide .223 die and its supposed to be great, even if costly.

BUT - anyone know if Hornady does/will offer their .223 dies with the titanium nitride coating? In their pistol dies, that coating replaces the carbide and I'd imagine a coating (even titanium carbide) would be easier to manufacture than machining a traditional carbide ring.

Fianlly, best price/source for 1000 or more 55 grn FMJ BT bullets?

Thanks, D.

[DHTampa]

Varget would be a winner as I use that in my 308.

DHTampa, what dies are you using on the Dillon?

Dillon carbide sizer and the others are Dillon as well.

I've started using the spray silicone (you can get at hardware/auto parts stores) for lubing instead of the dillon case lube. Put the brass in a bag, spray in the silicone, shake and dump in the case feeder. not as sticky as the Dillon so its easier for clean-up.

I just got some hornady 55 fmj's from Midway. May not be the best price but they were in stock so i got em.

Donn

[HI5-O]

Varget would be a winner as I use that in my 308.

DHTampa, what dies are you using on the Dillon?

Dillon carbide sizer and the others are Dillon as well.

I've started using the spray silicone (you can get at hardware/auto parts stores) for lubing instead of the dillon case lube. Put the brass in a bag, spray in the silicone, shake and dump in the case feeder. not as sticky as the Dillon so its easier for clean-up.

I just got some hornady 55 fmj's from Midway. May not be the best price but they were in stock so i got em.

Donn

Silicone spray.....hmmmm.....I'll try that when I load the next time. Thanks Donn for the tip.

Barry

[HiCapMag]

AhhhHaaa....Now I see the proper place for this thread.

Thanks.

[Dan Sierpina]

Few more Q.s if anyone can lend a hand:

I have the Lee die set around here someplace w/ the Lee FCD; any of you skip the crimp w/ the AR? Any issues?

With proper neck tension no crimp is needed. I have never crimped any rifle cartridge.

[ap3]

"I just got some hornady 55 fmj's from Midway. May not be the best price but they were in stock so i got em."

Got a good price on hornady 55gr from www.wideners.com 6,000 for $360 shipping included.

[ExtremeShot]

Has anyone tried using powdered teflon as a dry lube with the .223? ...I use it on all my pistol cases and it works great. Just squeeze a puffer bottle a couple times into the case feeder and away you go. It's inert so it won't mess with your gunpowder.

Darren

Teflon Powder on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=270145367718

[EricW]

Has anyone tried using powdered teflon as a dry lube with the .223? ...I use it on all my pistol cases and it works great. Just squeeze a puffer bottle a couple times into the case feeder and away you go. It's inert so it won't mess with your gunpowder.

Darren

Teflon Powder on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=270145367718

Don't even try it. You'll lock it up solid. You need a greasy lube like lanolin (Dillon spray or similar).

[Mick]

I bought a carbide .223 sizer die a while back. I had to lube just the same as without it. That die was over $100 alone and I sent it back. I haven't used a carbide rifle sizer die since. The Dillon lube was a bit better than the Hornady 1 Shot for rifle brass.

[ExtremeShot]

What will lock up? Like I said, I've been using teflon powder with my pistol dies and it works great.

Has anyone tried using powdered teflon as a dry lube with the .223? ...I use it on all my pistol cases and it works great. Just squeeze a puffer bottle a couple times into the case feeder and away you go. It's inert so it won't mess with your gunpowder.

Darren

Teflon Powder on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=270145367718

Don't even try it. You'll lock it up solid. You need a greasy lube like lanolin (Dillon spray or similar).

[Derek45]

Rifle resizing is a whole different ballgame.

If you fail to use enough case lube, the case will get stuck in the die FOREVER.

20 years ago I learned the hard way.

[milanuk]

Speaking of which... probably the best insurance against getting a stuck case... is to get a stuck case removal kit, and keep it where you can find it. Had one for six years, never needed it. Then I moved, couldn't find the dang thing, bam! stuck case. Unfortunately, I can say that feature of the Dillon dies does work fairly well... depending on how/why the case gets stuck, of course.

[uscbigdawg]

FWIW, I use and like the Dillon (non-carbide) sizing die. I was fully prepared to buy the carbide, but didn't after talking with some friends at Dillon. It's a small base die so it tends to make things run a little happier with our sport. That said, lube is your friend with rifle brass and with some spraying of Dillon lube, I knock 'em out as fast as I can on the 650 with zero worries.

Rich

[Canuck-IL]

Another newbie to 223 loading, only experience has been with big, wide mouth pistol cases.

So, do those reloading non-benchrest 223 rounds on a progressive always use spray lube of some sort, eg. One-Shot? Or do you swipe on a lube pad before positioning each case?

and after that, you load fully progressive? Decap/ size and reprime? Tumble to get the lube off after they're fully loaded or stop after repriming and tumble again, or...?

On a related note, I just discovered that my std 45 tumbling mix of 50:50 walnut and corn cob is not a great idea with small necked 223 cases...duh! Only 200 on the first batch but I think I'll stick them in a universal decapper rather than the progressive...at least 1/4 of the cases won't shake out all of the crap.

Thanks

/Bryan

Edited July 19, 2007 by Canuck-IL

[GentlemanJim]

I load full tilt on my 550. ....after the brass has been cleaned,deprimed and pocket swaged,trimmed..deburred,sized and reploished

The darn brass prep takes all the time ..I know you can just buy pre preped brass but if you do it yourself...you know what you got.

I spent most of today setting up and prepping brass.

Jim

[ap3]

Another newbie to 223 loading, only experience has been with big, wide mouth pistol cases.

So, do those reloading non-benchrest 223 rounds on a progressive always use spray lube of some sort, eg. One-Shot? Or do you swipe on a lube pad before positioning each case?

and after that, you load fully progressive? Decap/ size and reprime? Tumble to get the lube off after they're fully loaded or stop after repriming and tumble again, or...?

On a related note, I just discovered that my std 45 tumbling mix of 50:50 walnut and corn cob is not a great idea with small necked 223 cases...duh! Only 200 on the first batch but I think I'll stick them in a universal decapper rather than the progressive...at least 1/4 of the cases won't shake out all of the crap.

Thanks

/Bryan

Definately spray lube as it is a lot faster. I have been using the Frankford Arsenel stuff which is fairly cheap and it works fine there are a lot of great spray on products out there. Put the stuff in a bag, spray in the lube, shake it up, let it sit for 5 minutes and your done. To deprime before trimming I remove all the powder and primers from the loader load up the case feeder and run them through in mass. You will need to trim the cases after about 3 times if they were new. I would look at purchasing a Giraud http://www.giraudtool.com/index.htm or Gracey case trimmer http://www.matchprep.com/. It does all the trimming steps in one operation. You can find out more on this website about these trimmers. After they are trimmed I load up the case feeder, powder and primers and load em up. I tumble after completly loading the ammo for about 30 minutes for a minimum.

If you are not using a 1050 then you may have to get a tool to correct the primer pockets should you use military brass.

Amen to what you use in the tumbler. I bought some corn cob from Wal-Mart that is used for hamster cages, and end up having to throw away a bunch of brass. Quality tumbling media is worth the money.

[uscbigdawg]

Canuck,

Load and go. If you're not going to buy new or processed or even once fired, non-military brass, then prep time is brutal. Hence, why new brass or processed is great! After that, put the brass in a box or empty 24-can soda tray (the cardboard kind). Spray with Dillon lube. Throw them in the casefeeder and hit it!

When you're done, throw 'em in the tumbler to get the gunk off and you're ready.

Again, I'm not a benchrester, but I get sub .5 MOA all day with my plinker loads and sub .3 with my good loads.

Rich