beretta springs

[1911whore]

OK. I have a beretta 92fs I am going to shoot in IDPA and am thinking to start shooting USPSA. what weight springs and what loads are successful. ie low reciol make power factor, fast slide reciprocation etc. is there a particular recoil spring, hammer spring, and trigger spring that makes a difference? I also have done a trigger job on t he factory components and am going to be installing a elite 2 hammer for faster locktime.

[Joe4d]

i set my wifes up with an extra power recoil spring, and reduced power mainspring, If you have a steel trigger the wolff trigger return rod and spring is way better than the breakage prone mousetrap style spring, also go steel guide rod

[1911whore]

i sher gun set up for uspsa or idpa? how did those things alter the handling (ie, trigger, slide speed, recoil impulse etc)

[revchuck]

I replaced the trigger spring with the Wolff unit, and the mainspring with one from the D model. I'm still using the factory recoil spring. I've changed out the magazine springs for Wolff extra power ones, but that was pretty much just on GP, since the factory ones worked fine. If you plan on shooting IDPA, stay away from steel guide rods. From the rule book, listed under excluded modifications for SSP: 4. Guide rods made of a material different from the factory part it replaces. The SS guide rod does nothing except add weight; the factory part functions 100%. A brick of primers is a better use of the money.

[1911whore]

i know about IDPA and the ss guiderod. But I got the guiderod and elite 2 hammer from a member of another forum for 30bucks shipped so i got em. I will use the factory rod for idpa

[Steve Anderson]

Reduced mainspring and reduced recoil spring. the beretta slide is so light you can use a very light recoil spring...

I don't remember the numbers but 11 comes to mind for the recoil spring if I recall.

A shock buff will shorten the stroke a hair and reduce flip the same amount.

Berettas can be shot very very lightly.

SA

[Allgoodhits]

OK. I have a beretta 92fs I am going to shoot in IDPA and am thinking to start shooting USPSA. what weight springs and what loads are successful. ie low reciol make power factor, fast slide reciprocation etc. is there a particular recoil spring, hammer spring, and trigger spring that makes a difference? I also have done a trigger job on t he factory components and am going to be installing a elite 2 hammer for faster locktime.

Factory Recoil spring for 92 FS is 13 lb. A 12 or 11 lb should be OK. Caution on fully loaded "tight" mags may cause too much resistance to strip the top round off a full mag if the recoil spring is too light, or slide may feel sluggish until a few rounds are spent from the mag.

Many will go to a Beretta "D" model main spring. You may try a Cougar main spring too.

Loads as you know vary gun to gun. I have had good sucess with 125 gr JHP bullets with around 4.0 - 4.2gr WW231, and 3.6 - 3.9gr Titegroup. For 147 gr bullets I would drop these charge weights by .3 - .5. The 125 gr JHP's loaded to about 1.085 - 1.150" +/-. Personally I prefer the 125's running around 1025fps. I have not tried CLAYS, but it should be good for the 125 gr bullets, probably not the 147's as CLAYS may be too fast for 147's in a 9mm meeting PF requirements. I know a 125 gr Hornady HAP JHP with 4.0gr+/- CLAYS is an excellent soft load in a .38 Super with a 1.242 OAL. "I" would probably start a CLAYS load around 3.20 - 3.30gr with 125gr bullets in "my" gun.

The Wolff trigger return spring does make reassembly much easier than grappling that little spring with a crochet needle. The factory spring is smoother, but may break and is difficult without the crochet needle hook. I think the Wolff is offered with different tension too.

The BERETTA 92 family is a nice gun. Have fun be safe,

Martin

[Joe4d]

The steel guide rod is a factory part, just like the steel trigger, some have it , mostly older and Italian made and many made for various government contracts. It should fall under the same provisions as the slide lock and mag release note in the rule book, Basically because it is standard on some models and available from the factory it is permitted. The mod that is more likely against the rule is the hammer. As it states under action work "No visible external modifications" Honestly though you will probably have to travel far and wide before anyone would have a problem with either mod.

[Paladin]

my beretta 92fs (italian made) has a steel guide rod from the factory..

[rvb]

I use 3.3gr Titegroup under 147gr Zero JHP at 1.150" oal for my load. Makes 131 pf in my EliteII and shoots flat (TGs not as soft as VVN310, but cheaper and easier to find).

I run a 10-11lb recoil spring.

I run a 15lb 1911 mainspring with 2 coils cut off. That with good trigger word makes for a VERY light DA stroke and I love the way the gun handles (though lock time is slightly compromised). Fed primers are a must. Gun shoots very flat. I'd like to use a regular weight slide as I think that would make it shoot even flatter than the heavy Brig slide on the EliteII, but regular G models are hard to come by...

I HATE the wolff trigger spring unit. Fast way to ruin a good trigger job. Replace the factory spring every 5k or so and you'll never be left stranded (as well as the trigger bar spring).

rvb

Edited June 30, 2007 by rvb

[rvb]

The Wolff trigger return spring does make reassembly much easier than grappling that little spring with a crochet needle. The factory spring is smoother, but may break and is difficult without the crochet needle hook. I think the Wolff is offered with different tension too.

Methinks you make it harder than it is....

1) drop the trigger in the frame.

2) put the trigger bar pin through the top hole in the trigger.

3) start the trigger pin but dont push it into the middle of the trigger.

4) put one hook of the spring over the trigger bar's pin and the other on the frame.

5) while pushing down on the loops in the spring with your finger/punch/pencil/etc, push the trigger pin in, and you're done.

No special tools, just as quick as the wolff unit, you can buy a ton of factory springs for the cost of a wolff unit, and no nasty gritty trigger.

rvb

[beretta bob]

For USPSA Production I have done the following to my 92G Elite;

1) 11# recoil spring.

2) 16# 1911 main cut to 2.13 in. It's better to measure springs rather than just cut coils.

3) Removed 1/16 inch from the firing pin block spring. and polished the firing pin block.

4) Ever so slightly tweaked the sear spring to reduce friction.

5) Install Wolff reduced power trigger spring unit. First polish the contact surfaces and fit personally designed and Patented brass overtravel stop.

6) E-2 hammer. Re-cut and polished.

7) Cut 45* edge on sear and polish.

8) Langdon stainless guide rod.

9) Dawson FO front sight and LPA Target rear sight.

10) E-2 mag release with trimmed spring.

11) Polish every contact surface in the action. Including the mainspring guide.

End result; A very sweet shooting Beretta. 5.5lb in DA and a crisp 2.5 with near zero over travel in SA.

Edited September 2, 2007 by beretta bob

[MuayThaiJJ]

Is there any advantage in using a 15# or 16# 1911 mainspring in place of the Beretta #12 hammer spring?

[konkapot]

15 year old thread resurrection. Has got to be a record. 

 

There were times in the distant past when it was difficult to find 12# Beretta springs. 1911 mainsprings were a work around for that. 

 

For a long time ,Dave Olhasso was The Guy for Beretta parts. From time to time, he would be out. 

 

Dave's still around, but those springs are much more common. 

 

I don't remember much of a difference in the feel of the trigger, but I wanted something better....even a little better, than the factory set up, but was still reliable. 

 

Both springs worked fine. Given that they cost almost nothing maybe try both particularly if you're dealing with a primer scarcity situation. 

[cyberiad]

On 11/24/2022 at 2:14 PM, MuayThaiJJ said:

Is there any advantage in using a 15# or 16# 1911 mainspring in place of the Beretta #12 hammer spring?

I don't think so but as noted the springs are cheap enough it could be worth trying. I used an Ed Brown 1911 mainspring for a while. I can't remember but I think it was #18 or #19. The trigger pull was not bad but I started to get light strikes maybe around 3k rounds. I don't remember what primer I was using. Easy enough to replace the spring but by then all the lower weight mainsprings were coming out from Wilson. I switched to a #12 spring. I'm sure it's not the lowest possible DA pull weight but at 6.x pounds (which is a guess, I've never measured it) it's definitely shootable as is.

Edited December 1, 2022 by cyberiad

[MuayThaiJJ]

I ended getting an 11# PX4 spring, I will compare to the 13# LTT one