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Testing recoil springs for 1911.


Aircooled6racer

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Hello: I had some time today to do a little project I have wanted to do for quite a while. I made a recoil spring tester. I have been running different recoil springs in different pistols to find what I like. The problem is that the package says one thing and the feel is different for the same weight spring in the same pistol. Was I getting springs that were packaged wrong-- yes I was. That is why I made the tester. I can check the springs to see what they actually are, not trusting the package. I found out you learn alot quickly when you can test the springs yourself. I found that some springs are as printed and some are not. I also found out that the springs lose there spring rate faster than I thought they would. I hope this helps some others out who have said "I replaced the recoil spring with the same weight spring and it feels different". Thanks, Eric

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Hello: I had some time today to do a little project I have wanted to do for quite a while. I made a recoil spring tester. I have been running different recoil springs in different pistols to find what I like. The problem is that the package says one thing and the feel is different for the same weight spring in the same pistol. Was I getting springs that were packaged wrong-- yes I was. That is why I made the tester. I can check the springs to see what they actually are, not trusting the package. I found out you learn alot quickly when you can test the springs yourself. I found that some springs are as printed and some are not. I also found out that the springs lose there spring rate faster than I thought they would. I hope this helps some others out who have said "I replaced the recoil spring with the same weight spring and it feels different". Thanks, Eric

Well let's see it! :surprise:

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  • 1 month later...

I would love to hear the results of your specific testing. I am still running the stock spring in my .45 Springer, and I know I can probably go much lighter than it is now. I do tend to fire off the shelf ammo for it now, and am using a WC recoil buffer with the stock 2 piece guide rod.

Any suggestion on spring weight and maker?

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Making quality springs is both art and science. The recoil spring in a semi-auto takes a lot of beating. The material must be correct, the method correct and the stress relief correct. A spring stressed past its design limits dies quickly. When checking for spring rate, be sure do it within the gun's operating spec's for valid results.

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ISMI uses chrome silicon wire; Wolff uses music wire. Chrome silicon is by far the more superior material. There are different qualities of chrome silicon. The right wire must be chosen for the application, then properly shaped and stress relieved. Just the name "chrome silicon" doesn't guarantee a superior product, but it's a good start.

Lacking a spring tester, anther method is to keep a new uninstalled spring on hand, identical to the one you put in service in your gun. When the spring in your gun has shrunk 2 full coils or more, as evidenced by comparison with your specimen, it's time to replace it. If the spring in use dies really quick, like 50 rounds, I'd suggest you try a different brand.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I tried a 13# Wilson and a 14# ISMI in my 1911. The ISMI was MUCH lighter (just by how it felt, no measurement).

I ended up where I started, with my 16# stock Kimber spring, which is the only one of the three that reliably feeds lead bullets in my gun.

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No tools required, homemade spring tester...

Parts needed are:

- 12 inches of 1/4 inch thread-all bar

- 2 fender washers that fit on the bar

- A 1/4" stop nut or 2 nuts to jam together

- A small turnbuckle, 1/4" thread at one end and an eye or hook at the other

- Fish gauge ($6 - $8 at Dick's, Cabela's, etc.)

Stop nut on the end, fender washer, stick the spring in, another fender washer and then the eye

hook ... pull it through a vise so that the eye hook protrudes from one side and the rest is on the opposite side.

Pull the eye hook with the gauge until the right compression is achieved...as accurate as the quality of the gauge allows.

Mark the rod at about 1.6 inches above the stop nuts - the approx length when compressed in a 5" 1911.

Wrap 2 turns of wide clear packaging tape around the threads so the springs don't catch on the threads.

At least with mild Bullseye loads, the Wolff springs last an amazingly long time.

/Bryan

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