Jerome Poiret Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 On the SVI large frames, the right end of the slide release is at the same level as the frame. It's very difficult to depress and push it out with a fingertip, as you would normally do. STI makes a chamfer on the slide, around the slide realese hole. On standard-width frame, the slide release protrudes on the right. Do you guys have any tip ? I can't afford a third hand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Jerome, I don't understand why you would need a third hand? Are you using the L-bent tool to lock the mainspring compressed? If so, one hand holds the gun, the second punches out the slide stop pin (with whatever you have handy). Otherwise, you might consider the option of having the same chamfer performed on the frame of your SVI. If you are not using the L-bent tool, I'll be glad to tell you how to make yourself one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 L-bent tool!?!?! I don't have no "L-bent" tool! Sounds interesting though. I just hold the slide back with my right hand. Grip the gun and then move your fingers up to the slide to hold it in position. line up the slide stop removal hole and then, without allowing the slide to move, turn the gun over and push it out with a brass punch. I have a too large spring pin indention in my slide stop (read: it is hard to push out) and this works. OH, I get the L-bent tool now! You are talking about locking the slide back with the tool stuck in the guide rod! DUH! I don't always do it that way. If I'm not wanting to dissasemble the slide I usually don't lock it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerome Poiret Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Skywalker67, Julien told this to me this morning. I just need to check that the slide stop removal hole is lined up when I put the L-bent tool in the guide rod (hopefully, it should be). Singlestack, I need to try this (holding the gun and the slide back with one hand), but I have small hands. Now you tell me, I have seen that done in the past, but I didn't remember. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 L-bent tool? Do you mean the paper clip? Itried taking my gun down without it once, never again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2alpha Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 It would be an easy job to put the chamfer on your frame and would solve your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerome Poiret Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 2alpha, I'm considering it. Singlestack's method works, even with small hands. I just tried. Skywalker67, on my gun, the slide is too much rearward when the L-bent tool is inserted in the guide rod, the removal hole is not lined up. (?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 Push the slide stop/release/pin through first (impossible to do with a finger on my guns due to tightness; requires a tool). Then take the top end off and deal with the L-shaped tool to separate the recoil parts, barrel, and slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 Ok, let's clarify what I meant my SV (Standard Division) stripping down procedure is. 1. Do I have to say it? Check magazine is out & gun is unloaded ... 2. Lock the slide back with slide stop. 3. The L-bent tool. Mine is a normal hex head wrench (I figure 3/32", but I'm not so familiar with non-metric units, I only know it fits in the guide rod hole) with short leg cut at approx 3 mm from bending. Insert this tool in the guide rod hole. 4. Release slide lock being careful that L tool doesn't slip out of position: this will lock the whole recoil assembly in compressed position. 5. Align frame slot & slide stop and punch it out with brass punch. 6. Take off slide, take out recoil assembly from rear, slide out barrel from muzzle. I know this is a bit complex and slow procedure (JM Browning surely didn't design 1911s with this takedown procedure in mind), but you will want to disassemble the gun this way only when deep cleaning is required. Moreover, it will work no matter of your hands size Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerome Poiret Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 Erik, Sounds like a good idea for the second part. I still have to push the damn thing out first, though. Skywalker, In my gun, I need to drill another hole in the guide rod, because the one that's already there is too far from the muzzle end. ie, once I've locked the slide back with slide stop and insert the L-bent tool, then when I release the slide stop, the slide can't move enough forward to line up the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 Jerome, this sounds very strange to me. Is your guide rod an SVI Factory one? If this is the case, I would suggest reporting the whole matter to your local SVI distributor, because it has to be a defective part (i.e. hole out of location tolerances). This evening, at home, I will measure the exact location (from muzzle end of the rod) of the take-down hole on my factory guide rod and post it for you. If the rod is an aftermarket part, I'd like to know who is the maker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 The take-down hole on the guide rod should be located at 1.6" from muzzle end. But I wonder, if it is possible to retract the slide enough to engage slide stop, and the take-down hole is clearly visible (at least enough to insert the Ltool), how is it possible that slide won't go all way back in battery with Ltool inserted (thus allowing the alignment of slide stop and slide notch)? The Ltool only serves to lock the recoil spring compressed, but cycling of the handgun shouldn't be prevented. Check for possible obstructions and/or wear preventing cycling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerome Poiret Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Quote: from Skywalker67 on 12:39 pm on Jan. 17, 2003 But I wonder, if it is possible to retract the slide enough to engage slide stop, and the take-down hole is clearly visible (at least enough to insert the Ltool), how is it possible that slide won't go all way back in battery with Ltool inserted (thus allowing the alignment of slide stop and slide notch)? The Ltool only serves to lock the recoil spring compressed, but cycling of the handgun shouldn't be prevented. You're right. Dam... me. This is the best procedure so far: 1. retract the slide, 2. engage slide stop, 3. insert L-bent tool, 4. release slide stop, 5. push slide forward to align slide stop and notch, (slide moves freely) 6. push slidestop out. Thanks Skywalker. I missed step 5. (Edited by Jerome Poiret at 3:38 pm on Jan. 17, 2003) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerome Poiret Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Next time, I'll go there directly http://www.sviguns.com/manual/index.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Is there a French equivalent for R.T.F.M.? (Lisez le guide...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Boit Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 You're right Eric, and is called : The "use your brain" manual Lol Jerome DVC Julien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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