ExtremeShot Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 I'm sure there's probably a thread talking about this, however, the search function didn't give me anything. I was curious how much you guys typically flatten the top of a STI slide? I haven't stuck a caliper on my slide yet, but from some of the pictures I've seen it appears about 30 thou, or so, has been removed. Thanks, Darren Click here for a picture of my gun: My STI Open gun project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Hello: I can give you the width of the flat that is left after milling. The stock STI width is about 0.375. I like 0.400 it makes it look a little more finished going over to the edge of the port. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeShot Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Thanks! Hello: I can give you the width of the flat that is left after milling. The stock STI width is about 0.375. I like 0.400 it makes it look a little more finished going over to the edge of the port. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 It doesn't take a lot, 30 thou will get a pretty wide flat. I don't have my slides with me, but I know on the Open gun I took 30 thou and it is a good bit wider than a factory STI flat top. On the Limited gun I took 20 and it is about the same as an STI factory. Level the slide in the vise, cut 10 per pass until you get close to the look you want and drop 5 at a time from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeShot Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 When you guys flatten the slide, are you flattening the comp separately or are you doing both at the same time? ...The comp is about the same width as the slide so I'm thinking I could get a pretty good grip on both with the vise, however, the other end of the barrel (chamber end) would be loose. DM Yep, that's what I was thinking. A lot of cutting oil on that last pass should give a good fininsh. Level the slide in the vise, cut 10 per pass until you get close to the look you want and drop 5 at a time from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Hello: I use a carbide fly cutter to cut the top. You can use paper as a shim between the slide and vice or comp and vice. The paper has some give so it will lock either one that is loose. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeShot Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 So it sounds like you are cutting the slide and comp at the same time? Regarding the paper, I make mag releases for the XD and I cut 12 at a time. Sometimes if one is slightly shorter it will spin so I use a thin cardboard to take up the space. ...same concept. Darren Hello: I use a carbide fly cutter to cut the top. You can use paper as a shim between the slide and vice or comp and vice. The paper has some give so it will lock either one that is loose. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Pictures and info on page 1: SLIDE FLAT TOPPING or: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26647 D. Johnson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 ES, lock the lug end of the barrel with the same tool you used to cut the lower lugs, for the life of me I can't remember what it is called right now. The 'gizmo' that fits in the recoil spring tunnel and locks the barrel up with the setscrew. Then you can flat top the slide and comp together. Carlos link provides all the other info I can think of that you might need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeShot Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Thanks for the info. I don't think I have that tool so I'll have to try to find one somewhere. Darren ES, lock the lug end of the barrel with the same tool you used to cut the lower lugs, for the life of me I can't remember what it is called right now. The 'gizmo' that fits in the recoil spring tunnel and locks the barrel up with the setscrew. Then you can flat top the slide and comp together. Carlos link provides all the other info I can think of that you might need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scirocco38s Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 If you dont have at least .100 after flatopping and it crack, STI will not warrant it. If its more than .100 no problem. They are pretty reasonable about the lightening cuts and other stuff. They are firm on the amount of metal after the flattopping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Oupt ...I gota ask Benny to do a flat top on the one he is building. I forgot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 This is the 'gizmo' I was trying to remember the name of. Remember the comp will be hanging off the end of the barrel and the cuts need to be pretty light to prevent chatter. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...O+BARREL+HOLDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeShot Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 Thanks!! It says that it "Mounts through the bushing".... I guess it will work will a bull barrel also? DM This is the 'gizmo' I was trying to remember the name of. Remember the comp will be hanging off the end of the barrel and the cuts need to be pretty light to prevent chatter. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...O+BARREL+HOLDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Yes, It works on bushing and bull barrels. It actually goes in place of the reverse plug/recoil spring plug. I guess that is what they are calling the 'bushing below the barrel'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExtremeShot Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 Sweet! I'm also going to get one of Brownell's "YAVAPAI SLIDE JIG" to hold my slide when cutting the rib cage. Anything else you guys think I will need? ...I really appreciate the help. Darren YAVAPAI SLIDE JIG: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...amp;s=3445#3445 Yes, It works on bushing and bull barrels. It actually goes in place of the reverse plug/recoil spring plug. I guess that is what they are calling the 'bushing below the barrel'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 I have been chopping on slides without the Yavapai jig. I lay them down and push them up against a hard clamped stop block. Then I lightly toe clamp the slide down and make sure my radial cutting forces are toward the stop block. It has been working out pretty well. One thing that might make a difference is I am using a true CNC mill, and orientation of the part doesn't really matter. I write the program and can run that program in any orientation I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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