benny hill Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 2nd that. Most shooters on most stages shoot so fast that they cannot the the difference between 1.5 lb trigger or a 2.5lb. trigger. When the buzzer goes off, just grip it & rip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyin40 Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 I dropped in a SVI Titanium sear spring, EGW sear, Koenig hammer and it was way, way to light. I had work on the sear spring to get it up over 2lbs. After shooting it a bit I had to tweak it again to put back up to and over 2lbs. I can't see why you would need a trigger under 2lbs for Ipsc. Flyin40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loner42 Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 I dropped in a SVI Titanium sear spring, EGW sear, Koenig hammer and it was way, way to light. I had work on the sear spring to get it up over 2lbs. After shooting it a bit I had to tweak it again to put back up to and over 2lbs. I can't see why you would need a trigger under 2lbs for Ipsc.Flyin40 +1 ON THAT.................. What's next, 1/2 lb. trigger pulls??????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 I had Benny Hill increase my trigger pull on the Fat Free he built me upward to 2 lbs. Anything less than that FOR ME does not give me the "feedback" I like when I pull the trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckbradley Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 (edited) Ok, A nice crisp trigger is important but a reliable trigger(no follows or doubles) is more important; a strong and quick reset(facilitates faster shooting and alleviates trigger freeze) is more important; a quick and strong drop(faster more accurate shots with no light hits) is more important;a trigger that wont go off with a bump, reload or inadvertent touch while prepping the trigger is more important. I know there will be a bunch that will jump on and say I have a 1 lb or 18 ounce pull and I dont have any of those problems. You may not have them all but I guarantee you have or will have at least one of them. Some may not even realize they have some of them already. I once thought to move up in this sport I had to find the magic trick somewhere. Some think its the lightest trigger they can get, I used to also. The real answer is to find balance between all the things involved in the sport. On the trigger I always get mine done at 2 1/4 lbs. Gives me a nice clean break. A Strong and quick reset, a quick and strong drop and a safe trigger. I also use a .030-.040 take up. I want to be able to get on the trigger and get a feel before it goes bang. Its not about the trigger pull but about the intensity of focus in your mind , pulling the sight picture and the trigger pull together, doing both at the same time. If you can do that then the trigger pull doesnt matter , to perform well you have to do that anyway so why not do away with all the other problems associated with too light of a trigger? Edited January 30, 2007 by chuckbradley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loner42 Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Ok, A nice crisp trigger is important but a reliable trigger(no follows or doubles) is more important; a strong and quick reset(facilitates faster shooting and alleviates trigger freeze) is more important; a quick and strong drop(faster more accurate shots with no light hits) is more important;a trigger that wont go off with a bump, reload or inadvertent touch while prepping the trigger is more important. I know there will be a bunch that will jump on and say I have a 1 lb or 18 ounce pull and I dont have any of those problems. You may not have them all but I guarantee you have or will have at least one of them. Some may not even realize they have some of them already. I once thought to move up in this sport I had to find the magic trick somewhere. Some think its the lightest trigger they can get, I used to also. The real answer is to find balance between all the things involved in the sport. On the trigger I always get mine done at 2 1/4 lbs. Gives me a nice clean break. A Strong and quick reset, a quick and strong drop and a safe trigger. I also use a .030-.040 take up. I want to be able to get on the trigger and get a feel before it goes bang. Its not about the trigger pull but about the intensity of focus in your mind , pulling the sight picture and the trigger pull together, doing both at the same time. If you can do that then the trigger pull doesnt matter , to perform well you have to do that anyway so why not do away with all the other problems associated with too light of a trigger? Well said chuckbradley................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Lombardo Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Ok, A nice crisp trigger is important but a reliable trigger(no follows or doubles) is more important; a strong and quick reset(facilitates faster shooting and alleviates trigger freeze) is more important; a quick and strong drop(faster more accurate shots with no light hits) is more important;a trigger that wont go off with a bump, reload or inadvertent touch while prepping the trigger is more important. I know there will be a bunch that will jump on and say I have a 1 lb or 18 ounce pull and I dont have any of those problems. You may not have them all but I guarantee you have or will have at least one of them. Some may not even realize they have some of them already. I once thought to move up in this sport I had to find the magic trick somewhere. Some think its the lightest trigger they can get, I used to also. The real answer is to find balance between all the things involved in the sport. On the trigger I always get mine done at 2 1/4 lbs. Gives me a nice clean break. A Strong and quick reset, a quick and strong drop and a safe trigger. I also use a .030-.040 take up. I want to be able to get on the trigger and get a feel before it goes bang. Its not about the trigger pull but about the intensity of focus in your mind , pulling the sight picture and the trigger pull together, doing both at the same time. If you can do that then the trigger pull doesnt matter , to perform well you have to do that anyway so why not do away with all the other problems associated with too light of a trigger? Well said chuckbradley................... +1 After fiddling with various weights and "feels", I would take a 2.2-2.5 lb crisp trigger with strong reset and decent pretravel over one of the 18oz wondertriggers. They are skirting on the brink of dangerous in most cases. I have never seen a sub 2# trigger that was safe from hammer follow with anything heavier than a 12 pound recoil spring, either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 In general, I agree with Chuck.... However, I think you'd find several folks on this forum who would disagree, at least in the case of a properly set up and maintained system (which very few know how to do...). For instance, read up on Brian's description of his trigger jobs. Personally, I prefer 26-28 oz, with strong reset as part of that number. Plenty of pre-travel and over-travel - pre-travel for prep, and over-travel for easier follow through. Crisp, glass-rod break is awesome, but I'll take an infinitesimal amount of creep in there, if it has to be there to get the rest - if its small enough, it doesn't get noticed in normal conditions. I find that with a heavier trigger (say, 2#), I can't actuate the trigger as fast (my Bill Drill times get slower... seriously, they do). However, any lighter and I have problems with trigger freeze. I do ride the trigger the whole way, and don't slap except perhaps in the case of up close hoser targets as a way of further avoiding trigger freeze... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cking Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 (edited) Nobody has actually discussed what is necessary to get a low pull. The main thing to getting a great trigger is the fit between the sear and hammer hooks. First you have to have at least 75% contact on sear hammer hooks. So when you blue them and cycle it. If you getting uneven contact that's a problem. Next is the angle of contact between the hammer and sear face. Hammer hooks are supposed to be at 90'. With sharp clean edge that has just be brushed with a stone to break the corner. Front edge of sear should be relieved because very few hammers have a clean corner. Biggest problem is that guns don't always have there holes in right place. I like the extension pins out the side of frame so I can inspect my hammer sear angle interface. Next is to make sure the sear hammer surfaces are parellel to each other. If angle is less than the gun will have creep, if angle is greater than you will have no creep but pull will higher than required. But will have what I call a collapsed release, rather than a smooth release. When you get a smooth release without creep and high contact. Then you can mess with your spring. I like too set the disconnector leaf first. Break the upper edge of it, and arch it so that it smoothly works the disconnector and supplies just enough stirrup pressure to reset the trigger. Then back off on the sear spring until firm/light sear set. Now that will all that most times give a 2 to 2.5lb area pull. All of this requires to 10 to 20x magnification to see. Edited January 30, 2007 by cking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loner42 Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Some might find this interesting................... http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/N...p;t=2&i=349 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cking Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 (edited) That was a good article like the part about using a spring gauge to set the leaf pressures. However I seen too many guns that don't have the holes in perfect positions. So saying use 4 clicks and 24 clicks is over simplifying the process. Edited January 31, 2007 by cking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 A lot of/most gunsmiths won't do a trigger to pull below a couple of pounds. If the pros won't do it....... They will all tell you that is simply because of lawyer-proofing against an AD lawsuit, not because it can't be done safely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjanglin Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 What Chuck and Benny said!!!! If you get all mateing surfaces in the proper geomatry and polished up good to me its hard as heck to tell the diff between a slick 3 lbs and an average 1-1/2. Practise and stop worrying about the gosip circles at the matches. Shoot a gun lots and it 'll be your favorite; keep changin it around and its allways a problem!! Jim Anglin Sailors custom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan550 Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Finally!! cking got around to answering the original question instead of condemning the questioner's proposal! I started out in Action Pistol (granted, light loads and light recoil) with a 1.75# trigger, and over the last few years have worked my way down to a nice 15+ oz. trigger that I wouldn't trade for any of those "crisp 2.5#" triggers you talk about. BTDT and hate anything over about 1.25# for accuracy work like AP. just my $.02 Alan~^~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now