shooterbenedetto Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 any secret to balancing your springs? what kind of sear and main spring is used? and what pondage? 18 or 15? i bought an extreme drop in trigger and i think i got it down to about 2.0. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Why would you need/want to go lower than that ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 A lot of/most gunsmiths won't do a trigger to pull below a couple of pounds. If the pros won't do it....... Be careful or you will put your eye out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 My gunsmith just built me a beautiful new STI open gun, and my trigger breaks at *EXACTLY* 2 lbs. Awesome trigger, awesome gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue edge Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 If it is 2 now, shoot it. after a few thousand rounds, SHAZZAM it will be less than 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 My gun was built with a trigger that was exactly 2#, and I have found that it is too light for me. I can't reliably prep the trigger properly with it. I have it up to a little over 3# now and I shoot the gun better. Points are definately better, and time is a little better to without the extra shots a little over-prep will get you. I shoot a 7 pound stock Glock trigger very close to as well as the super crisp 3 pound in my STI. That tells me weight isn't critical and I try to tune them to work best for me. I can most reliably prep the trigger properly from 3-5 pounds it seems. I would tell you to try it at 2, try it at 3, and see where you score more points. If it gets better at 3 try it at 4 and 5. You might find that uber-light triggers don't help you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38supPat Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 With the parts you descibe ( I have them too) you probably won'y get down to a pound. I would try adding and SVI Tri-glide system and it will feel a bit lighter, after that it needs proper prep work on the sear, and playing with the springs. The sear spring is tricky because you need it to still have enough pressure to reset the trigger and sear. You could try a lighter mainspring and see if it feels lighter. Once I get more of the rust off (me not the gun) I'd like to get mine down to a pound, but you HAVE to handle the gun everyday, to the point where a 1lb trigger feels heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Ed, It's simple! Just get out your most reliable and least dangerous tool (Your checkbook) and go over to Will O'Hara's shop and tell him what you want Later, Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 I like mine in the 1.5# range, with plenty of takeup and overtravel, but with a wicked crisp break. Although, I haven't ever tried one of the infamous Enos trigger jobs... Any lighter than that, and my finger doesn't get enough feedback from the trigger face, and I tend to pin the trigger under pressure. The Extreme parts are definitely capable of a 1 pound trigger job - but they definitely need prep, as Pat says. And that's not something a layman needs to be trying to do - the almost certain result is that you'll be out the cost of a sear and hammer, at the least. Most gunsmiths hesitate to send a trigger out that light, because 99% of the shooters out there can't handle it. My trigger was at 2# for quite a while, as I came back into shooting. I handled Sharyn's gun at the SSC last year (which has a very nice trigger job on it - 1.5-ish or so, IIRC??). Anyway, I dropped the hammer on it, and my first comment was - "Oh, I would SO AD with that right now....". I've since tweaked mine down into the same range. +1 to Pat's advice about handling the gun a lot with a trigger that light or you're likely to be dangerous with it. So, all that negativity aside... I have a 17# mainspring in my gun, and I have all of the Extreme race parts. Trigger geometry was setup by Rusty Kidd in Atlanta (I don't know for certain what, if anything, he did to the parts, having never examined the stock parts). Changing the trigger from the 3-3.5# it arrived to me with (from its previous owner), to 2#, and now 1.5#, was done solely through tweaking on the leaf spring. Consider that going to a 15# mainspring gives you longer lock time, which could affect your accuracy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shooterbenedetto Posted January 14, 2007 Author Share Posted January 14, 2007 my gunsmith built me my race gun 2 years ago and i learned at 1lb trigger?? its just that im building a back up race gun for myself and want to avoid spending $$$. i like the idea of the triglide sear..i think i might try it. i just inspected my original race gun that is at 1lbs. i noticed that the sear has a nothch filed in the middle?? does thishelp engage the trigger with this kind of light pull??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38supPat Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 its just that im building a back up race gun for myself and want to avoid spending $$$. i like the idea of the triglide sear..i think i might try it. It's not the sear, it's the system. Trigger, Sear spring and disconnector Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Ed,It's simple! Just get out your most reliable and least dangerous tool (Your checkbook) and go over to Will O'Hara's shop and tell him what you want Later, Chuck Better advice I could not have given. I think there are certain things that should be left to someone with experience. a 1 # trigger is one of those things. If you are really curious as to how, ask to watch when it is being done. I'm sure Wil won't mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Anyone ever see a 1911/2011's hammer follow? Ever hear of one "doubling" or firing 2 shots full-auto? Any of those guns have triggers that were "lightened"? A long lasting, light trigger is no easy feat. You are better off just learning the trigger that is on the gun (unless its really awful). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 My SV Open and Limited guns break at 1 3/4 lbs, they were set at 2 lbs when new. I have a very small amount of take up in them so I can be on the trigger wihtout it going off before I am ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j1b Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 1.5 to 1 pounds is generally achievable - but it is extremely tough to do reliably. It is much more involved than "hammer, sear, mainspring, leaf spring" etc. etc. Your comment about a notch in the sear scares me - that bearing surface is there for a reason! The comment about doubles, hammer follow etc. all are legit - unless everything is done properly. When you want to go low on trigger weight you've got to understand pin placements in the gun - are they to spec and if not how does that impact how the parts marry up. Then you've got to be a nut about insuring all the relevant bearing surfaces are not only finessed properly but that each holds its weight evenly/properly. Spring pressures can't be guessed, you've got to really understand the pressure and how the springs are applying pressure on their relevant piece (hammer strut, sear, mainspring housing etc) 99.99% of the world's shooters would do well with a basic 2# trigger - which is relatively easy to do and make reliable. Some shooters don't like weights over 18 ounces or so. They are notably few and (in my experience) have the experience level to be able to handle said trigger. I know you've got experience with the 1# trigger. I'd advise getting that block out of your head. If you struggle with a 2# trigger because it's so different than your 1# trigger then honestly I'd question my technique. A good 2# trigger should be very shootable. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ipscbob Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 I have DQ'ed a lot of shooters with supposedly solid 1lb triggers. Listen to what everyone here is trying to tell you. Learn some trigger control and <2lbs will NOT be neccesary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Sample Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 The sear with the notch in the middle is a Gold Cup Sear. They work fine. I have a 2lb trigger on my .38 Super Race Gun. The rest of my 1911's have a 3 1/2 lb trigger pull. I would never do a light trigger for a client. Too much liability for me to fade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxyyy Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 been shooting competitively with a sub-1lb trigger with no pre-travel since last june 2006. so far, it's been reliable and never had an AD with it. this is coming from a first time 1911 owner, having been a plastic guy for years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 to obtain a trigger pound 1 lbs you must get quality parts ( and E.E. are) but you or your pistolsmith need also to work on sear engage surface and hammer hooks to get this kind of result. You must be very skillful to do this job. On my STI Edge with all original parts (sear, sear spring, hammer, disconnetor) I achieved a trigger weight of 1 pound exact but I spend a lot of time to obtain it. First at all SAFETY, remember! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxyyy Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 oh...btw, i did my own trigger job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loner42 Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Say what you must but anything under 2 lbs. is not safe. Anyone playing around with a 1 lb. trigger has an AD just waiting to happen. There is not enough sear spring pressure on the sear and disconnector to RELIABLY reset the hammer-sear every time, without hammer follow or full auto sooner or later. I also suspect some of these 1 lb. triggers are "guesstimated" 1lb. pulls, not measured with a guage. Let the tirades begin......................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxyyy Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Say what you must but anything under 2 lbs. is not safe. Anyone playing around with a 1 lb. trigger has an AD just waiting to happen. There is not enough sear spring pressure on the sear and disconnector to RELIABLY reset the hammer-sear every time, without hammer follow or full auto sooner or later. I also suspect some of these 1 lb. triggers are "guesstimated" 1lb. pulls, not measured with a guage. Let the tirades begin......................... hehehe..i assure you there is enough pressure in the sear spring to "RELIABLY" reset the hammer/sear everytime. btw, my trigger pull was measured by a gauge. am a kinda scientific kind of guy..won't do a job unless am fully knowledgeable about it. the science of trigger pull...hehehe...is a big secret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loner42 Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 the science of trigger pull...hehehe...is a big secret Yeah, Whatever............. hehehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonub Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 mine breaks at 1.2 if it gets to 1 pound or less which happens once a year. i just push the leftmost sear spring a little and its back to 1.3-1.5. svi triglide. koenig hammer and egw sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Gaines Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 most people cant tell if they are breaking at 1# or 2#, Most of the time you are putting alot more pull with your finger than that, so trigger pull weight is really a non issue. most people pull the trigger way harder than 5+ pounds per pull anyways, and dont realize it. so I would say the key to triggers is to have one that has a good, crisp comfortable break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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