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What To Do With Extra Toolheads(1050)


RePete

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:D I purchased a Super 1050 and load for 4 calibers. :D

When all the toolheads were setup with the dies and powder measures, there isn't a stand availible to put the on. :o

What to do to prevent knocking them over and breaking something? They are each worth close to $500 Cdn. :o

I solved the problem by having a 3 head stand made. See pic. :D

HPIM0696.jpg

It's made from aluminum. The base is 1/4" x 16" x 8" and the posts are 2" diameter bar, 6" long and machined down 1" to a diameter of 1 1/8". B)

It doesn't move and is what the doctor ordered. :D

Feel free to build your own, and Mike Dillon, you have stands for the cheaper line of presses, why not make one for the 1050 line?

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I'd almost bet that most 1050s in use are single caliber machines.....

I had 1 1050 with 3 total toolheads (38SC, 9mm, .40) until I just picked up another 1050 so I don't have to switch out between the two calibers I shoot 95% of the time.

I'd agree that more 1050 users don't switch out calibers than do but I'm sure there are many that would spend a few bucks on a stand.

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I am now up to 3 1050s and still have a couple of extra tool heads to deal with. the stand looks great, I will have to get one built up, I will get my welder right on it. (Oh Phil, I got a job for you).

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I believe I can help with an easy and cost effective solution. I did this 10 years ago, and it has worked great for me. I used an 18"x23" piece of 3/4" plywood....it holds 8 tool heads.

I used 1" pvc tubing(white plastic stuff used in plumbing), flat end caps for the tubing, and a splice for the tubing (measuring about 2'' long).

Mount the flat end cap to the board. I used a 1/4x20 nut and bolt, and contersunk the bolt head on the underside of the board...the nut goes inside the end cap. Tighten it now, it's easier.

Next, glue a piece of 1" pvc approx. 2 1/4" long to the inside of the end cap. Now glue the coupling over this stub, making sure the coupling is flush with the end cap (it just looks cleaner).

Take another piece of 1" pvc, approx. 2 1/4" and glue it inside the coupling. The 1"" pvc will stick out of the coupling and is the perfect size for the inside diameter of the tool head. The tool head will now rest on the top of the 1" coupling.

The cost to make each mount is very cheap, and they work great. Perhaps I should patent these. :D

Hope this helps, have a good day....Hank

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Here's the result of a little lathe work and a little wood work. 1050 toolhead holder and a set of powder measure holders. I tend to swap out powder measures more often than toolheads.

post-1846-1168672172.jpg

Nice work, man. Are the powder measures with the springs old school or retrogrades?

-Chet

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Here's the result of a little lathe work and a little wood work. 1050 toolhead holder and a set of powder measure holders. I tend to swap out powder measures more often than toolheads.

post-1846-1168672172.jpg

Nice work, man. Are the powder measures with the springs old school or retrogrades?

-Chet

Awld Skool all the way. One of those is the powder measure off my old Square Deal B that I got un-SDB conversion parts from Dillon maybe 10 or 15 years ago. Someday I'll retro the new ones just 'cause I don't like them, but I put less-frequently used powder in those anyway.

I figure that picture can double as an answer the 'should I clean my powder measure?' "what are the plastic adjuster knobs?" and 'is leaving powder in the measure bad?' FAQ's too. Do empty them before welding nearby. :D

Hanks' solution is a good one if you don't have a lathe and 1.5" bar stock handy. There's a size of PVC pipe (maybe "1/2"-inch) that fits powder measures as well and doesn't need anything but chopping off about 1.5" long and attaching to a plank.

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