slavex Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 so how does one take apart the crank assembly connector rod with the Irolox Retaining Ring setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 so how does one take apart the crank assembly connector rod with the Irolox Retaining Ring setup. What is the PN? I can't see it in the press breakdown. RePete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhurd Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 13086 Index Roller Bolt 1050 13142 Mainshaft 1050 13258 Mainshaft Pivot Pin 13324 Connecting Rod 1050 22216 Connecting Rod Assembly 13042 Crankshaft Journal 13365 Index Roller 1050 13581 Grease Zerts 17084 Irolox Retaining Ring (2) 17110 Dowell Pins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 (edited) I have a Super 1050 not a 1050. Looked up on Dillons web site. If you take a scribe and run it around the circumference of the ring, you will find a ledge, pry that and the ring should spiral out. RePete. Edited January 2, 2007 by RePete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 where did you find that on Dillons website? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 I downloaded the RL1050 manual and saw what type of retainer it was. They are also used on frontend loaders and graders and some cars. RePete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 ahhh I see. I tried to do as you said and can't get it to work. Dillon any help maybe, please????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANeat Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 ahhh I see. I tried to do as you said and can't get it to work. Dillon any help maybe, please????????? I dont know if you have yours apart yet. Im taking mine down to the frame for a cleaning and greasing. If you need it Ill get a few pics for you. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 pics would be great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 any help from Dillon on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAL Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 Oh no! The ring sure came out easy. Just turned right out, now I can not get the damn thing back in. I got a hour into just trying to get it back and now it is bending up. Just great. anyone know the proper way to put it back. I am screwed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANeat Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 (edited) Oh no! The ring sure came out easy. Just turned right out, now I can not get the damn thing back in. I got a hour into just trying to get it back and now it is bending up. Just great. anyone know the proper way to put it back. I am screwed Ok Ill see if I can explain this. On the crank assembly you will notice that it will move off center more one way than the other. Push it to the side where it will stick out the farthest. That is the ring that you need to remove. Just find the end and pry it out with a small screwdriver. Once its out to where you can get a hold of it just un-roll it from the center part. Once apart and you have all the little needle bearings and everything else cleaned then youre ready to re-assemble. I put a medium coating of grease on the center assembly to hold the bearings and start sticking the bearings on. When there all on I apply a light coating of grease on the inside and put the center piece with the bearings in. Making sure to get it installed correctlynd push it thru so the opposite side is sticking out enough to install the ring. Then I hook the start if the Irolox ring in the groove and wind it around. Once on if any part of it will not seat into the groove just a light tap with a screwdriver handle should get it seated in the groove. Once in the groove you should be able to center up the assembly and it will be ready to install. Ive got some pics of this at home, Ill try to get them posted later (Im at "work" now) Adam Edited January 9, 2007 by ANeat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 that would be great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANeat Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 Ok; I added the pics to my post above. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAL Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 Ok, It make a big difference if you do it right the first time, I did not know it would stick out more one way or the other. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 GREAT JOB! I may take mine apart after nearly 20 years and lube it!!!! Mick A27257 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 thankyou!!!!!!!!!!!! I am not at my machine right now, but there are two rings aren't there? one on each side? do we take both out, or just one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANeat Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 thankyou!!!!!!!!!!!! I am not at my machine right now, but there are two rings aren't there? one on each side? do we take both out, or just one? You only need to remove one ring. I would say that if a person really wanted they could just keep rotating the center and pump clean grease in thru the grease fittings and not have to dis-assemble it. I bought my 1050 used several years ago and this is the first time Ive took it down to every last nut and bolt. I really dont think a person could wear the thing out with any kind of care and maintenance. Its a impressive machine. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al503 Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 I would say that if a person really wanted they could just keep rotating the center and pump clean grease in thru the grease fittings and not have to dis-assemble it. I asked Dillon about this and they responded that it wasn't really necessary to take the whole con rod assembly apart. Grease through the zerks is fine. My older RL1050 (nickle plated) doesn't have those irolox rings. The dowel pins simply slide out for cleaning/re-lubing. My other, newer RL1050 has the rings and I'll probably take the entire assembly apart every other cleaning, alternating with just fresh grease through the zerks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 I am just kind of funny this way. I like to know each and every part of mechanical things I use. I rip apart pretty much everything I use and rebuild it. Hell I even did my VCR's when I need some parts put in. and I am not service tech for that kind of stuff at all. But if you follow the instructions, things work out fine usually. but simple mechanical things like bearings and levers and such I have no problem with. But these freakin rings were confusing me, so instead of bending them, I figured I should ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 My old 1050 doesn't have the ring either.. I usually rip it down every 15-20K and give it a good clean/lube despite the instructions saying I only need to use the zerks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 bringing this to the top as I've been asked by a few people recently about how to do this. And I could not remember, and I want to clean mine again after the powder spill recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted July 3, 2020 Author Share Posted July 3, 2020 bringing back to the top again, got that same machine torn down right now. looks like I might need another 13258 Mainshaft Pivot Pin, does anyone know what the diameter of that pin should be? I replaced it back in 2007 when I tore it all apart, and while not as bad as the old pin (which I kept) it definitely has a bunch if slop. in the mainshaft holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N7VY Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 When I first opened this thread I saw that it was from 2007! Then you updated it twice and said you were repairing your press. How many rounds between you replacing the bearings? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 @N7VY so I never ended up replacing the needle bearings in the above offset bearing. I got the info from Dillon what needles to order, ordered them through a local supplier, aaaaand they were too short. In the meantime I got a near new RL1050 from a buddy, tore it down to clean it and lube it and measured the needle bearings in it, and they were identical. I did replace the mainshaft pivot pin back then though as it was horribly worn from the previous owner, he'd loaded at least a million and a half rounds (commercial reloader). It's done about the same in my hands since I first posted this. The last few years before I got my Revolution I was loading up to 200,000 a year for myself and some friends (it's been motorized for ages). The mainshaft pin is needing replacement again as are the two bearing sets for the crankshaft. The other RL1050 is setup for 223 processing and is still rock solid, but it's had a much easier life than this machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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