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Aftec Installation


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I'm replacing the Aftec extractor in my .40 Edge with another Aftec. The new springs that are under the spring cap seem to be quite a bit stonger than the ones I took out and I'm having trouble getting the spring cap to go in the extractor channel. I've tried putting the firing pin between the spring cap and outer edge of the extractor port as the instructions say to compress the spring cap but for the life of me I can't get the spring cap in the channel. Either the firing pin slips from the spring cap or once I pull it out of the channel the spring cap comes with it. Suggestions?

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I had the same proble the other day, I was gonna replace the STI extractor with the Aftec.

I gave up and just put the STI back in!!!!

Figured I was a dumb AZZ!!!

On close inspection, it just looks like it WILL NOT FIT!!!!

Is the Aftec THAT much better to go thru the trouble?

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I rotate the AFTEC 180deg in the extractor channel so the spring cap is facing inboard (toward the firing pin hole). I can then see exactly how the leading edge of the spring cap is hitting on the extractor channel. You can place direct pressure to "shoe horn" the fwd edge of the cap so it begins to go into the channel. Once it's in, rotate the extractor back to its normal position and push fwd into place.

Know what I mean...?

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I do the same as TDean-- Todd showed me that trick once when I was dinking around trying to get one in the other way-- it's super easy with a punch or allen wrench or whatever-- put the Aftec in 180 degrees from where it's supposed to be, slide it in until it stops, press the spring cap down with the punch and push it in a little more. Then un-rotate the 180 and push in the rest of the way.

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TDean and SHRED described what I do to install an AFTEC, but most of the time I just rotate it 90*, put the cap straight up and use the firing pin to compress the springs. It goes in pretty easily in my guns.

It is WAY +10 worth the hassle. They don't break, they work right, and they don't break. What isn't to love about an AFTEC?

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Had to help a friend with an Aftec last summer.

Rims were not sliding under the hook.

Tiny sliver of brass between the springs kept it from working.

It would compress enough to install, but no more.

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it's super easy with a punch or allen wrench or whatever

Rusty Kidd (the original designer of the AFTEC ACE) recommended using something like a 1/16" allen wrench, as well. That's what I still use - although I orient it in its normal way, and use the wrench on the appropriate side - no problemo.

I installed an AFTEC in my Trojan w/ no difficulty, either. Realize that the part expects your extractor tunnel to be within spec - there have been cases of extractor tunnels being undersized, and not being able to get the AFTEC part in (documented on this forum). Normally, though, its just about learning the "trick" - once you figure it out, its pretty easy from there....

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Can the AFTEC normally just replace OEM extractor, or does it need to be fitted?

On both of the guns that I have them in, they have required a lot of fitting both on the FP stop and the extractor hook itself. Any given example may or may not depending on the dimensions of your slide, barrel, etc.

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I have put a couple in. All that was needed was to bevel the firing pin stop so it can pivot freely, slide it in and go shoot. The hooks were nicely rounded, length was right on the money, etc. Literally it has taken 10 minutes to install them.

Z, I run a REALLY clean shooting load and pull the extractor every couple thousand rounds or so. Usually somewhere between 1500 and 2500 rounds I will clean the top end out, and detail clean the entire gun every 4 or 5 thousand rounds. When I pull the extractor I punch the tunnel out with a 22 cal bore brush, push a patch through and it is done. When I used the normal TiteGroup load most seem to use I had to shorten the interval to about 800-1200 rounds between top end cleanings and 2000ish for detail cleanings.

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Hello: The one I installed worked great from the start in the STI slide. The only thing I have to do is lighten the spring pressure to helps with the feeding. The extraction worked fine even with the heavy springs. It took no filing or the normal fitting of other extractors. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

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+1 on rotating the extractor to get the spring cap started into the tunnel. I use a small scribe with a sharp point so I can compress just the front edge of the cap (the shoehorn method already mentioned). I also keep a small pair of pliers that have been padded with duct tape on the jaws for grabbing and twisting the extractor.

One AFTEC I had was cut a little funny. The flat surface of the hook that grabs the case rim was "tilted out" a bit (towards the front of the gun), making it less than 90 degrees from the center line of the main body of the extractor. It kept slipping off the case rims and that seemed to be the cause. Also, the angle where that hook face met the main body was rounded (I was expecting a sharp corner since the one that was working was made that way). I probably wouldn't have discovered these two problems if I hadn't had a working version on hand to compare to. (Note: The one I had with these issues was an older unit.)

One other thing I recommend checking on a new AFTEC is whether the front tip is contacting your barrel when gun locks up fully into battery. Color that side of the barrel with a Sharpie or similar ink and hand cycle briskly a few times. If any of the ink is rubbed off take a little off the end of the extractor with your file. Any contact there will eventually lead to a failure (most like a broken extractor) after pounding into the barrel during live fire.

Many, but not all barrels actually have a slot machined into the right side of the barrel to allow clearance for the extractor tip. Even with the slot, it only takes a minute to check, and may save you some grief down the road. If it does break, it will of course fail in the middle of a match when you have a good chance of winning (I think it's a law).

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One other thing I recommend checking on a new AFTEC is whether the front tip is contacting your barrel when gun locks up fully into battery. Color that side of the barrel with a Sharpie or similar ink and hand cycle briskly a few times. If any of the ink is rubbed off take a little off the end of the extractor with your file. Any contact there will eventually lead to a failure (most like a broken extractor) after pounding into the barrel during live fire.

Many, but not all barrels actually have a slot machined into the right side of the barrel to allow clearance for the extractor tip. Even with the slot, it only takes a minute to check, and may save you some grief down the road. If it does break, it will of course fail in the middle of a match when you have a good chance of winning (I think it's a law).

Also likely to effect extraction as well since the hook is likely to be moved slightly out of engagement with the case rim if it interferes with the edge of the barrel in battery. I do as dv8 suggested everytime I install an extractor of any kind. I would add, though, to also use dummy rounds to check since the presence of a case under the hook will change the location of the extractor.

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Have you tried sliding the aftec in with the spring cap on but no spring in the pockets. If it will fit without springs this could tell you whether or not the extractor tunnnel is undersized. If it fits without the springs then chances are that the spring tunnel isn't undersized. If this is the case you could take 2 of the 4 springs that come with the aftec and shorten them by lightly touching each end of the spring to a belt sander or rubbing the ends on a sharpening stone until they are short enough to fit. Don't touch the ends on a belt sander hard enough to heat up the spring or you won't have a spring anymore. Just touch it lightly and then let it cool before you touch it again. Hope this helps.

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Yes, I've tried putting the Aftec in without the springs and it slides in just fine. Piece of cake. Add the springs and that's when the trouble starts. And it lines up just fine with the firing pin stop without the springs. When I put the old springs back in I can sometimes get it in but then I can't get the slot in the extractor to align with the firing pin stop. When I put the new springs in I can't even get it in the extractor channel let alone have to worry about aligning the slot.

Seems to me like if I took an old Aftec out I ought to be able to put a new Aftec in, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

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I place the springs in the recesses in the extractor with the cap over them, use a small pair of neddle nose to compress the springs and cap and hold the extractor. Slide the extractor in place 180 degress out, as soon as the cap is started in the slide release the pliars, slide the extractor in till the cap is in , rotate and push it in the rest of the way.------Larry

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