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Posted

I've read many post trying to identify advantages or disadvantages of 1911 Guide Rod options (full length, 2 pc etc...) Can someone please elaborate on this...

By the way; Just ordered my first 1911, a Springfield PX9152L for single stack competition...

Thanks

Posted

I like the Cominolli Frame Saver. It has a thin buffer on each side of the head. I just think this is a good idea to reduce the possibility of any frame battering. I know, some claim that there is no use for a buffer or anything else, that if it was supposed to have a full length guide rod and buffer, Mr. Browning would have put it in there. My gun and my money and I just like to keep my guns in good shape and 100% functional. My $.02 worth.

Posted
I like the Cominolli Frame Saver. It has a thin buffer on each side of the head. I just think this is a good idea to reduce the possibility of any frame battering. I know, some claim that there is no use for a buffer or anything else, that if it was supposed to have a full length guide rod and buffer, Mr. Browning would have put it in there. My gun and my money and I just like to keep my guns in good shape and 100% functional. My $.02 worth.

+1

i have a framesaver in tungsten for my competition gun

Posted

For single stack you are allowed only a steel full length guide rod...tungsten is gaming and not allowed. They are trying to keep this class pure like production...so you can't bankroll a good game. I would get the steel tool less FL guide rod from Dawson Precision. I have the tungsten version in my Limited gun and it will make you want to clean your gun more, because it will be easier.

Posted
I would get the steel tool less FL guide rod from Dawson Precision. I have the tungsten version in my Limited gun and it will make you want to clean your gun more, because it will be easier.

I have heard lots of reasons to clean my guns but this is a first, because it is easier to take apart. Try the original design for easy and you could see if it was loaded with a press check.

Posted

Thank you all for the information, It's given me some ideas and additional options. I will check into both the Cominolli and the Dawson Precision Guide rods.

Would also like to ask if there are issues with 2pc guide rods coming apart?

Thanks again...

Posted
For single stack you are allowed only a steel full length guide rod...tungsten is gaming and not allowed. They are trying to keep this class pure like production...so you can't bankroll a good game.

Bankroll a good game? Production is pure? Back to the OLD SCHOOL roots of the sport, huh! :wacko: Guess this is what happens when you invite in the tactibillies and yahoos with a SS division!

Oh Well, back on topic. I use cominolli frame saver steel rods also with 2 buffs. Cheap insurance for your frame.

Posted

Steel guide rods are all similar, although I'm not sure the Dawson toolless rod is worth the extra money just to save a few seconds.

EGW also makes a good guide rod. Even though the 2-piece rod will tend to come loose it shouldn't be overtightened.

The black buffs that come with a Cominoli don't seem to hold up well. Using two thicker buffs in its place _may_ cause your gun to not cycle properly.

I prefer the guide rod with the drilled hole where you use a paperclip. But, either way it's no big deal.

The original short guide rod? I don't know a single high-level competitor shooter that doesn't use a full-length guide rod.

Posted

I too use a Cominoli FS gide rod ( its a two piece that I locktite and drill a capture hole into so it will never come apart) but replaced those wimp buffs with some thicker ones, heck I think I run 3 buffs on the rod now, talk about stroking your GR, hehehehe, the slide would not lock back if I "paid" it to.

No point in having the slide move any more than is ABSOLUTLEY NECESSARY.

Posted
I've read many post trying to identify advantages or disadvantages of 1911 Guide Rod options (full length, 2 pc etc...) Can someone please elaborate on this...

By the way; Just ordered my first 1911, a Springfield PX9152L for single stack competition...

Thanks

The FLGR is better for the simple reason you can drill a hole in at and use atake-down tool and remove the rod/bushing/spring as a captive assembly and never have to fight with the recoil spring during assembly or dis-assembly. As far as function in operation, there is no difference.

Posted
that if it was supposed to have a full length guide rod and buffer, Mr. Browning would have put it in there.

if that were true, he would have put bomar sights, a better safety, drop the spur hammer, beavertail grip safety and a magazine well.. JMB was a excellent gun designer but he did not know it all.

to answer the question, the one piece guide rod made of steel would be the best for singlestack division.

Posted

I have a 1911 with a GI version like JMB deviced it and one with a Nowlin 2-pice FLGR and I really can't tell the difference between the two. Both guns work the same. I used buffs for some time and stopped doing it just because it was one more thing to keep track of

If I wanted to go fancy with the 45's I would install a STI Recoilmaster (heavy/bushing). I love it in my STI's.

Posted
Steel guide rods are all similar, although I'm not sure the Dawson toolless rod is worth the extra money just to save a few seconds.

It may not be necessary, but it sure is trick ;) Saves you from needing a paper clip (ie, "take down tool") in disassembly, etc... I don't own one, yet, but I might in the future...

Posted
that if it was supposed to have a full length guide rod and buffer, Mr. Browning would have put it in there.

if that were true, he would have put bomar sights, a better safety, drop the spur hammer, beavertail grip safety and a magazine well.. JMB was a excellent gun designer but he did not know it all.

to answer the question, the one piece guide rod made of steel would be the best for singlestack division.

:D:lol::D:lol:;)

I was thinking the same thing...

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