mike_pinto Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 Well, after a heck of a deal on the 11-87 SP-Turkey I found, we finally got the sucker running. I went through the whole gammit of quick, non-permanent changes on it. (heavier loads, 2 gas rings, barrel seal activator, 4 different lubes) Nothing would work except the 3 1/2 dram or heavier loads to get the bolt to go all the way back. I finally took the handy DeWalt with a drill bit and got after the gas holes. I compared them to a 26" 11-87 and they weren't even in the same ball park. They were .068. No wonder!!. Opened them up to a cool .090 and now I don't have a $400 single shot. Look out! Now if there are 20 people in a match, I feel like I might be able to tie for 19th!! Comin at you Kurt!! hahaha
TDean Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 I wonder if we got the same deal on the 11-87, $399 from Oklahoma? ...anyway, I got mine running too. I skipped all the add-this stuff and went with a 7/64" (.109) drill bit to start. I grabbed some Federal 3 dram-1-1/8 oz bulk pack from Walmart and proceeded to run 50 shells through it trouble free. After stripping it down, I noticed the o-ring has gouges in it the extend about 25% through the thickness of the ring. At that rate, it'll probably last ~200rds. I need to find better rings. I'll give EricW's a try, but it seems we need a tougher material (maybe sandwich the ring within a steel housing, like a tire rim of sorts?) What happens when if we made these run with no ring?
mike_pinto Posted March 1, 2006 Author Posted March 1, 2006 (edited) I had the same problem until I took a Dremel to the new ports. It seems that when we drilled them, it left a slight burr on the outside of each hole. I flatened and smoothed and no problems now. Run your finger over the ports and see if you can feel a burr. I just got some of Eric's rings too. I am shooting today, since it is 83 today here in OK, I'll let you know if they hold up.. I got mine from Nebraska, but probably the same deal. I put a piece of electrical tape over the clear part (top) of the rear sight. It dimmed the fiber to a dull green and really makes that front sight stand out. Helps alot!!! It makes me think if I used the 1100's dual ring setup, the rubber ring may not matter as the two rings will catch most of the gas. Im sure the rubber ring also helps agains batter of the ports from the metal rings.. I may try that today too.. Mike Edited March 1, 2006 by mike_pinto
Mell531 Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 Mike & TDean, Eric told me that his Remington rings will last 200 to 300 rounds according to what ammo you shot in your gun. I change mine before a match or after 200 rounds of practice. Have you shot any low recoil slugs thruogh your shotguns to see if they will cycle and what size barrel are you using? Which slugs are you using and what is the velocity of the load? Drilling the ports to the right size and then finding the right ammo to make it cycle is the trick. DVC, Mell
TDean Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 (edited) "It makes me think if I used the 1100's dual ring setup, the rubber ring may not matter as the two rings will catch most of the gas" I'm not familiar with the 1100 dual rings. Are they rubber? Mell, I haven't tried any low recoil slugs yet, but getting it to cycle with 3-dram loads makes me think LR slugs won't be a problem. These are 21" barrels. Edited March 1, 2006 by TDean
mike_pinto Posted March 2, 2006 Author Posted March 2, 2006 I have shot the low recoil slugs and they work great. Just ordered 50 boxes from Sportsmans Club for 2.09 a box. TDean, Instead of only having the one metal piston ring, the 1100's have another one that is forward of the one we have. They fit together to form a seal. Tried it today without the rubber, no go!!! Then I tried my set-up with the barrel seal adapter. Sweet!! It shot the AA low recoil 24 gram loads without a hitch. I also shot it with just a few drops of oil and my 3 dram loads successfully. Now if I could just find a wide rear sight... Mike
George Posted March 2, 2006 Posted March 2, 2006 Now you are getting the idea here. It's all about tuning the gas system to the ammo and then buying a whole lot of it! My 11-87 is a real soft shooter the way it's set up. The bolt moves so slow you can read the stampings on it ;-)
Mell531 Posted March 3, 2006 Posted March 3, 2006 Guys, You can find the Nu-Line 1100/1187 gas system at Brownell's part # 655110000. If you are looking for good sights for your shotgun take a look at the Williams Fire sights at http://www.williamsgunsight.com/ . Brownell's has a lot of competition parts for Remingtons, just do a search on thier site. Good luck this year with your Remingtons. Mell
TDean Posted March 3, 2006 Posted March 3, 2006 "Don’t let rusted, broken or badly carboned-up gas pistons and seals keep your 1100 or 11-87 from working its best. Long-lasting, stainless steel and Teflon replacement for factory gas system parts. SPECS: Teflon barrel seal, stainless steel gas piston and piston seal. Kit contains piston, piston seal and barrel seal." Does this system sandwich the o-ring between washers?
TDean Posted March 3, 2006 Posted March 3, 2006 I'm thinking something like this, where the o-ring is captured between two metal washers (shims). Just the outer sealing surface of the oring is exposed to the hot gasses rather than the entire ring. The shims take the brunt of the gas.
George Posted March 3, 2006 Posted March 3, 2006 Try it any way ya' want. But the design intention has the o-ring hitting the end cap instead of peening the end of the metal piston/ring ;-)
Singlestack Posted March 3, 2006 Posted March 3, 2006 Try it any way ya' want. But the design intention has the o-ring hitting the end cap instead of peening the end of the metal piston/ring ;-) All-de-day-long
cmzneb Posted October 7, 2006 Posted October 7, 2006 I have shot the low recoil slugs and they work great. Just ordered 50 boxes from Sportsmans Club for 2.09 a box. TDean, Instead of only having the one metal piston ring, the 1100's have another one that is forward of the one we have. They fit together to form a seal. Tried it today without the rubber, no go!!! Then I tried my set-up with the barrel seal adapter. Sweet!! It shot the AA low recoil 24 gram loads without a hitch. I also shot it with just a few drops of oil and my 3 dram loads successfully. Now if I could just find a wide rear sight... Mike Re-hashing an old thread here... But I just bought one of these 21" 11-87 turkey guns and I am racking my brain trying to figure out a way to not have to purchase $9 per box loads to get this gun to cycle. What exactly is the "barrel seal adapter"? Is this the Brownells part # mentioned above? Does adding these parts alone get the gun to work? Please tell me more about drilling out this gas hole to make the gun cycle with target loads. Thanks!!!
Intel6 Posted October 7, 2006 Posted October 7, 2006 This post has some info. There is another post on the subject but I can't seem to find it. Neal in AZ thread link
cmzneb Posted October 7, 2006 Posted October 7, 2006 I see the barrel seal activator on Brownells, but of course they are out of stock on it. When I asked Remington about adding something to the gun to make it cycle with light loads, they said they didn't make that part any more.
No.343 Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 cmzneb, I bought the same 11-87 as Mike P. I bought the barrel seal activator, but I did not drill out the gas ports. After a short break-in period the gun shoots anything I've tried lately. I usually stick to 2-3/4 or 3 dram Estates loads. I can get them for around $4 at Shooters Warehouse.
Jaxshooter Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 You can buy rubber O-rings at your local hydraulic parts supply house in different hardness than the original ones. Take one with you so they can match the size and test the hardness. You can usually buy 30 or more for the same price you pay for 5 of the "competition rings " They will also last longer.
StealthyBlagga Posted October 13, 2006 Posted October 13, 2006 (edited) This is all about gas port size. I had a 21" deer barrel on my 11-87 for a while, but with the fixed size small gas ports (sized for slugs/buckshot presumably) it would only cycle reliably with hot loads. I simply changed the barrel - sold the slug barrel and installed a 26" vent-rib barrel with the gas compensation system that is standard on the 26" plus barrels. I then cut this barrel down to 21" and it runs great with everything I feed it. End of story. My most recent gas ring has probably had thousands of rounds over it... no sign of wear at all. If you have to keep changing yours, something else is wrong. Edited October 13, 2006 by StealthyBlagga
mike_pinto Posted October 14, 2006 Author Posted October 14, 2006 Although I have crossed over to the dark side (Benelli), I have to answer the last post. Yes it is true that you can get thousands of rounds from a Remington gas ring, I have. I chose to use Eric's rings for two reasons. I can get 20 of them for the price of one Remington one. I used one of Eric's for longer then advertised then I swap it for a new one before a match to make sure it doesn't break at the wrong time. The second is that I had a friend getting into 3-gun and usually practiced and shot right after me in matches, so the barrel/seals got to about the same temperature as the hottest day on the sun! They get pretty weak when they get to that temp, something about physics. So I changed them for peace of mind. So after I went through all of the work to get it running, the danged ol' easy loader pin broke during a stage. Replaced the pin and sold the gun. Made Benny's mortgage payment and shoot a Benelli from now on. There is nothing wrong with a Remington, I just need all the help I can get and a 1/16" roll pin ending your match doesn't help the mental aspect. (But that's another thread)
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