BrazilianShooter Posted February 23, 2006 Posted February 23, 2006 I was watching Mat Burkett DVD "How to Shoot Fast" and in section DRAW, he told to practice in a very close target at 3 yards, so you can concentrate only in SPEED, the explosion of movement. After a lot of Dry fire practice, i went to the range and make a few draws, in his video Mat Burkett did a few draws in 0.70, with the best in 0.68, so my best draw was 0.53, and my average is 0.61. Note: my reaction time to TIMER is 0.25 i know its too slow but i dont know how to improve this reaction time. I´m uploading some videos of this draws at Google Videos, but you can see one draw in the link below. Draw in 0,69 I really apreciate comments and times to compare. bye,
HSMITH Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 Nice draw!! I don't have times to compare but it looks like a good time and a good drill to really turn the speed loose and see what happens.
nm3gnr Posted March 2, 2006 Posted March 2, 2006 Hello B Shooter, On your draw times, are you getting a sight picture and both hands on the gun or just point shooting?
BrazilianShooter Posted March 3, 2006 Author Posted March 3, 2006 (edited) Hello B Shooter,On your draw times, are you getting a sight picture and both hands on the gun or just point shooting? To be honest with you, i jus pointing the gun to the target, as i say, im concentrate in Speed. ´ But my grip is with both hands. some time a loose the grip. Ill try to make some videos of my draws in a 10 yard plate. bye Edited March 3, 2006 by BrazilianShooter
BrazilianShooter Posted March 7, 2006 Author Posted March 7, 2006 Hello B Shooter,On your draw times, are you getting a sight picture and both hands on the gun or just point shooting? check this out 0.53 ooopppssss Bye,
Clay1 Posted March 7, 2006 Posted March 7, 2006 damn quick! One time and one time only, I hit a .59. I can't duplicate it. When things are going well and after I warm up, I get in the .7s now for a similar distance and what Brian calls a type one focus - just index the gun and pull the trigger. My 10 yard A zone hits are almost twice that speed at 1.3 after warming up. Still fun to do and impress your friends.
Cjblackmon Posted April 13, 2006 Posted April 13, 2006 I was watching Mat Burkett DVD "How to Shoot Fast" and in section DRAW, he told to practice in a very close target at 3 yards, so you can concentrate only in SPEED, the explosion of movement.After a lot of Dry fire practice, i went to the range and make a few draws, in his video Mat Burkett did a few draws in 0.70, with the best in 0.68, so my best draw was 0.53, and my average is 0.61. Note: my reaction time to TIMER is 0.25 i know its too slow but i dont know how to improve this reaction time. Draw in 0,69 I really apreciate comments and times to compare. bye, How do you index your grip on the gun so quickly??? I was playing your videos back and forth in slow motion and it looks like you scoop the gun with your middle finger and as it comes out, you assure your grip on the gun during presentation. I know one thing that slows me down is that my draw is done in two movements: hand goes to gun for grip, then present. I do have a decent reaction time to the buzzer (.12 to .13 seconds everytime), and being rather new to the sport I can hit a small pepper popper at 30 yards at about 1.5-1.6 seconds, but I'd really like my draw one swift motion. I know you were looking for insights on your draw with this post could you give me any recommendations? I'm off to dryfire...
Flyin40 Posted April 13, 2006 Posted April 13, 2006 Hello B Shooter, On your draw times, are you getting a sight picture and both hands on the gun or just point shooting? To be honest with you, i jus pointing the gun to the target, as i say, im concentrate in Speed. ´ But my grip is with both hands. some time a loose the grip. Ill try to make some videos of my draws in a 10 yard plate. bye Nice draw, I have never tried it with a target that close so I don't have any times for you to compare. At that distance you don't need a perfect sight picture. You can just index or go off the top your gun. You just need to see enough to shoot a A. If your shootings A's doing it that then no problem. After reading Brians book and acutally starting to understand the different types of focus I started using Type 1 and extremely close targets, I never look at the sight and I have shot an A every single time. I come to find out after talking with Flex that it was probably Type 2 focus after I descibed it. Regardless I now have the confidence of knowing that I will on close targets I can just look at the target and still get my A. Flyin40
cautery Posted April 14, 2006 Posted April 14, 2006 I don't work on it as much as I used to, and I don't have a blindingly fast draw, but it's not bad for a new C-class shooter.... What I decided is that it is good enough for now.... Right now I need to concentrate on plits and transitions because there are more of them then there are draws.... BUT, I do have an insight to offer that O brought over from some martial arts training I remember from many... many years ago. One of the things my instructor spent a great deal of time trying to communicate to me back then was in relation to a back fist shot on a target in close combat.... VERY basic move, and this particular move is based on a transition ffrom a modified boxer's ready position to a left hand right side of the face guard and a right hand "sword-draw" motion to a ba ck fist strike at eye level and about 12" from the tip of my nose.... The object is to focus the strike such that the cheak or forehead of the attacker actually implodes... Almost like putting a sabot round into a tank... You want to produce an explosive force INSIDE the target.... All that aside... as it applies to a draw, the successful strike requires an incredibly fast hand movement such that all momentun is transmitted through the tip of the index knuckle... I was having a very hard time getting the proper force focus, and my instructor told me that I was defeating the speed of the movement with un-productive muscle tension and conscious thought.... What e used as a tool to get me to do it right was to have me focus on the RETURN movement speed NOT the delivery speed.... then he told me to practice trying to focus the shot on a lighted candle (1/4" wick). The oblect was to focus the shot such that the strike would extinguish the candle due to the vacuum and NOT from actual contact... it took a lot of practice, but I was finally able to do it 100 of 100 times after several weeks of daily practice... Now, there is no return mo vement on the draw, but you CAN transfer a lot of the theory... What I discovered after a LONG time was that by focusing on the return movement, my subconscious actually took care of the delivery... the mechanics were already well imprinted... it was a matter of getting my conscious mind out of the way... I use this in my draw.... WHEN I am successful at visualizing a perfect draw, and then execute the draw before my conscious mind can get int he way and jack things up... mostly by adding tension to muscles that should be completely relaxed, then I have a much faster draw... Once agian... my sub-conscious KNOWS where everything is and what/how to get done what needs to be done... A relaxed muscle is MUCH (orders of magnitude) faster than a muscle that is "pre-loaded"... My best draws these days are when I am actually distracted from the actual draw... One of the ways I learned to practice reaction time was using a drag strip tree... I ahd a tree set up in my shop with a "trainer" seat, 5-point and accelerator, trans brake et al... I would practice reactions/launches using this setup. I had the lights set to a random time to the green so I wouldn't learn to cut a set light... I think you one could benefit from the same theory using the audible signal as well... Sound IS slower, but we cannot control that... What we can control is the time it takes us to SUB-conscoiusly launch our msucles in reaction to the audible signal... I think I could probably come up with an electronic interrupt that could index on say the trigger retention bar in a CR Speed holster (or other) that would register on the timer... What you would get would be a readout of the time between the start of the audible signal to the time the trigger bar actualted a micro-switch of some sort. it would certainly give you a consistent relative reaction time... Anyone interested?
rimfire Posted June 19, 2006 Posted June 19, 2006 I was watching Mat Burkett DVD "How to Shoot Fast" and in section DRAW, he told to practice in a very close target at 3 yards, so you can concentrate only in SPEED, the explosion of movement. After a lot of Dry fire practice, i went to the range and make a few draws, in his video Mat Burkett did a few draws in 0.70, with the best in 0.68, so my best draw was 0.53, and my average is 0.61. Note: my reaction time to TIMER is 0.25 i know its too slow but i dont know how to improve this reaction time. Draw in 0,69 I really apreciate comments and times to compare. bye, How do you index your grip on the gun so quickly??? I was playing your videos back and forth in slow motion and it looks like you scoop the gun with your middle finger and as it comes out, you assure your grip on the gun during presentation. I know one thing that slows me down is that my draw is done in two movements: hand goes to gun for grip, then present. I do have a decent reaction time to the buzzer (.12 to .13 seconds everytime), and being rather new to the sport I can hit a small pepper popper at 30 yards at about 1.5-1.6 seconds, but I'd really like my draw one swift motion. I know you were looking for insights on your draw with this post could you give me any recommendations? I'm off to dryfire... Frankly, I don't believe the claims about .12-.13 second reaction time to the timer (every time). In fact, I don't believe it any time at all.
Colvis Posted June 19, 2006 Posted June 19, 2006 Frankly, I don't believe the claims about .12-.13 second reaction time to the timer (every time). In fact, I don't believe it any time at all. Why is that so hard to believe? All you're doing is pointing the gun downrange and firing at the sound of the buzzer. It's just practice to your reaction time. You're just waiting for the first note of the buzzer. What kind of times are you getting rimfire?
mike_pinto Posted June 29, 2006 Posted June 29, 2006 Really? I also don't know why it is so hard to believe. I suck at this game but have a .16 - .17 reaction time that can be verified by reputable sources on this site. They have to use a sun dial to time most of my stages, but a reaction time is just that. Once Rimfire listens for the START of the beep, his reaction times will be faster too. Make sure you are ready and go at the START of the beep. Did I mention the START of the beep? Mike
AlamoShooter Posted June 29, 2006 Posted June 29, 2006 (edited) With some timers you can dry fire reaction time. = push the muz up to the timer with it set at ramdom.= unloaded gun and dryfire onto the timer. = the hamer strike will stop the timer. My wife likes to beat me at this one in the under .15 range. I saw a .09 more than once from her. I need to worm up to get my time to .15 This is trigger finger only, but reaction is reaction If you can't believe it why would you be on this site? Jamie Foote Oh and - Nice Draw luis I like the way your support hand is on the gun quick and that you are balanced for extra shots. You need to try Steel Challenge Edited June 29, 2006 by AlamoShooter
BrazilianShooter Posted July 17, 2006 Author Posted July 17, 2006 .........Oh and - Nice Draw luis I like the way your support hand is on the gun quick and that you are balanced for extra shots. You need to try Steel Challenge Thanks man, But my draw at surrender position needs improvment. I like Steel Challenge, but here in Brazil we don´t have lot of matches of Steel Challenge. Bye,
Mo Hepworth Posted March 3, 2007 Posted March 3, 2007 (edited) that is fast!! My absolute fastest time was a .58, but I was point shooting. In an actual match I have hit a .71 a few times, but can't recall how much of the sights I saw. In a match I have hit .85 with a adequate sight picture a few times. i actually did a .36 out of a Bladetech belt holster with one hand at 3 m. But I was lucky to hit the target, purely point shooting from the hip. I did make sure I cleared my holster before putting pressure on the trigger! Edited March 3, 2007 by Mo Hepworth
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