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Posted

I'm planning on spending some quality time with my PSS. The stock trigger is pretty crappy - what's the best replacement trigger, or can I tweak what I have?

Posted (edited)

I got this from http://www.snipercountry.com/articles.htm

Remington Trigger Adjustments

14 May 2000

By Paul "Pablito" Coburn

First, the disclaimer

In the U.S.A., we live in a litigious society, and for those of you who live in Rio Linda, that means fools will do really stupid crap, and then sue someone else, because "It's their fault, they made me do it!". For those of you that don't know what you're doing... STAY AWAY FROM TRIGGERS... you can hurt someone (usually someone else!)

Adjusting triggers is something that was once an expected job by the owner of a new gun, just like adjusting the seats in your new car.

But Remington (because of many lawsuits) takes a very dim view of adjusting their triggers... it's number "1" under Remington's "Felony list of no-no's".

Be advised, if you adjust the trigger, and send the gun back to Remington (in the USA) for repairs, they will charge you for a new trigger (they will NOT re-adjust the old one).

.. and finely, your mileage may vary according to road conditions. If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do internal minor repairs and parts replacement... this may not be for you. Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I'm presenting this information as "Information Only"... it is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information.

If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following, so it's not my fault, neither Sniper Country's!

Now on to the details

The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.

You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.

Remove the barreled action from the stock.

Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...

The three screws are as follows...

* On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...

* The bottom screw is spring tension...

* On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.

First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.

They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.

OK, now down to business.

Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.

Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.

Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.

Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".

Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.

Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.

Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.

Check by:

* Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.

* Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.

Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.

There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.

These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.

Edited by GeneralChang
Posted
I'm planning on spending some quality time with my PSS. The stock trigger is pretty crappy - what's the best replacement trigger, or can I tweak what I have?

You can tweak the Remington factory trigger to a fairly nice pull, but, if you've a little time (about 1 hour), a little disposable income ($90-$120), and some rudimentary handtools...you can replace the factory unit with a Shilen or Timney easily enough. Just did this with mine and now have a clean, crisp, 10 oz. trigger w/no creep or overtravel! :)

Posted
I'm planning on spending some quality time with my PSS. The stock trigger is pretty crappy - what's the best replacement trigger, or can I tweak what I have?

Jewel is the best trigger out there. If you're looking for an improved trigger, not benchrest weight, the Remington trigger can be tweaked down pretty easily. I prefer to put in a lighter weight spring rather than just backing out the screws. The lighter spring will give a more consistent feel and more adjustability than barely making contact with the factory spring. A bit of polishing helps even more.

Posted

I tried playing with the stock trigger on my LTR I could only get it to around 3 pounds or a little less. That didn't cut it for me. I got the Rifle Basix triger that goes from 4oz to 20oz. Great investment. Mine is set at about 10oz. I have a Jewell in another 700. The Jewell a gunsmith installed. I installed the Rifle Basix with the help of an AGI video, and the included directions. The Jewell is a crisper trigger and has much more adjustment, both weight and pull "feel" wise, but the trigger shoe is much narrower than stock or than the rifle basix. The rifle basix has a "normal" trigger shoe and just the smallest itsy-bitsy amount of creap before it breaks. If I had 120 to spend there is not a doubt I would install a rifle basix trigger. Like I said the Jewell has a better feel, but costs $100 more. The Rifle Basix triggers are plenty good.

Posted (edited)

I had played with Rifle Basix triggers on my XP100's, not bad, better than the factory triggers for sure, just not in the same league as the Jewell. I agree, that the trigger shoe on the Jewell is a bit narrow, but, at about 6 oz it's not a big factor :) My next choice would be a Shilen.

Edited by Dan Sierpina
Posted

I had the Jewell set at 3oz for a long time. It was great. Then it started going off when I closed the bolt so I reset it to 12oz. I think if I would take it out of the stock and give it a good cleaning I could lower it again. My understanding from other forums is that the Jewell is dirt sensitive. I started playing with my LTR and have not shot my rifle with the Jewell since. Also, I need to buy a torque before I start messing with taking that rifle out of its stock.

Posted
I just got a shilen trigger in the mail today, will install it this week and post how it does. looking forward to something new and lighter.

Scott, is it the benchrest trigger, or hunting version? I've used the benchrest trigger, it works well, but I think it won't go up over 6 oz. Practice with it a bit before using it in a match :)

Posted

It all depends on what you want to use the rifle for. If you are going to be shooting off of a bench and not getting into the field, dirt or dusty conditions, a Jewell may meet your needs. Other precision rifle and/or sniper sites have more experience and they say that the Jewell is sensitive to dirt and dust. If you are going into the field, do what GeneralChang suggests. I have used the method that GeneralChang wrote about on 2 700 PSS's, a 223 and a 308 and the outcome was extremely pleasing. No noticeable take up, or overtravel, just a "glass rod breaking" let off. But be sure to follow the safety checks to the letter. Also, make sure you understand the consequences if this operation is not understood and performed to the letter. It is not diffucult to do, but again, be sure to take your time and understand what you are doing.

Old Blind Squirrel

Posted

I have a PSS in 308 I have been using for PALMA matches for the last couple of years. When I got the gun it was completely stock. I took it to Mo Defina, a well known gunsmith in Palma and highpower and he did an amazing job with the trigger. I have never had any problems with it.

Adam

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