Setup For New Springfield 1911-a1

[Tweaker]

I'm working at setting up a new stainless Springfield 1911-A1. Not only is the gun new, but this is the first 1911 I've worked on. Last night I totally disassembled the gun. I polished the hammer, sear, and disconnect, as well as other miscellaneous parts. The hammer was absolutely horrible. We're not talking about little machine marks. We're talking very heavy grind marks. I was able to clean all this up. I will be having a gun smith stone them to spec. I've also ordered a 15# and a 17# mainspring, a C&S light sear spring, and Wolff 12.5#, 14#, and 16# recoil springs. In the mean time, I cut 3 coils off both the main and recoil springs as well as bent the sear springs. Without a scale I would guess that I went from 6-7# to around 4#. The proper springs will go in as soon as I get them. My goal is a 2 1/2-3 1/2# trigger. Should this get me there? Which recoil and mainspring do you recommend I start with?

[Crusher]

In the mean time, I cut 3 coils off both the main and recoil springs

This is on the factory stuff?

Sounds like you are a bit impatient, wait for the new springs and test then you are doing the work x2.

What calibre.

Edited January 20, 2006 by Crusher

[Tweaker]

Who me? Impatient? Never:) I bought a digital scale last night. The pull was about 4#. I test fired a couple mags and function was fine. I then installed Wolff extra power FP spring and 12# recoil spring. I found a McCormick sear spring. I followed the instructions at Brownells and set the disconnect leaf to 8 oz and then 16 oz with the sear leaf added. They did not have a mainspring so I'm still using the original with 3 1/2 coils clipped. The result is a nice and crisp 2 1/2-2 3/4# trigger that doesn't follow. I hope to find a 17# mainspring tonight. If not, I'm sure I will at the show tomorrow. I've not yet shot theis latest setup. This has been a lot of fun and rather rewarding. BTW, this Springfield is a .45.

Edited January 20, 2006 by Tweaker

[Catfish]

If this is the 1st 1911 you've ever worked on, I would just suggest that you be very very careful.

Sometimes we can be our own worst enemy.

Best of luck with your project.

[Sestock]

Unless you are running very whippy bullseye loads, I would not run a 12 lb recoil spring. A light spring in a 45 can override itself and bind or worse. If you will be shooting major loads of factory loads I would recommend at least a 16 lb spring.

[Tweaker]

Unless you are running very whippy bullseye loads, I would not run a 12 lb recoil spring. A light spring in a 45 can override itself and bind or worse. If you will be shooting major loads of factory loads I would recommend at least a 16 lb spring.

I understand that the stock spring is a 16#, or was it 18#. Reguardless, I've read of very few here using a 16# recoil spring. I may go with a 14# to start with but expect to end up running a 12#, perhaps with a shokbuf. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[LPatterson]

The stock spring is 16#. I run a 12 with a shock buff.

[tfs]

I use Wolff 18.5 lb conventional recoil spring with the extra power firing pin spring that goes with the pack. My mainspring is 19 lb Wolff.

I would not cut coils off springs. The new springs tend to be longer than the ones that have already "set." Fire a couple of hundred of rounds to let the springs "set."

There was somebody who brought his 1911 to a gunsmith (when I was still living in the Philippines) who was fond of cutting off springs. His mainspring had a couple of coils cut supposedly to have a light trigger pull. He used it in a gunfight and had three failure to ignite with Cor-bon .45s. The police later put a bullet in an old, stock, .45 and the supposed dud fired.

Just my two cents.

[Tweaker]

I would not cut coils off springs. The new springs tend to be longer than the ones that have already "set." Fire a couple of hundred of rounds to let the springs "set."

This gun will be used for competition only. However, I've already replaced the recoil spring and have a new main spring to install. I only cut the stock springs to experiment with until I got the new ones. No failures to fire even with 3 coils cut off the original main spring. The new one I got at the show is 19# but I anticipate going to a 17#.

[Sestock]

I tried running light springs in a 45 ACP with major loads. The spring overrode itself and really distorted, this happened twice. Now I run a 17 lb recoil spring. The gun feels better and runs faster with a heavy recoil spring.

[Tweaker]

The response I'm getting here is interesting in that I'm getting a lot of responses to run a heavier spring. That's not what I'm reading here in another recent thread. LINK

[TXSouthpaw]

I'm shooting a 1911 just like yours, with a few mods and tweaks for shooting L10. Currently I am running a 14lb recoil spring with a shok-buff. I am going to try a 13lb spring soon-ish.

If it helps any, I'm shooting 230gr JHP on 4gr of Clays.

[Tweaker]

Finally got around to trying this setup. Went with a 12# spring and 1 shok buf. The gun runs fine. Used WWB 230gr ammo. There's only a slight mark on the buf with no cut into it. I would think that should indicate the setup is fine. Correct?

Edited January 30, 2006 by Tweaker

[Chuck Merriam]

Every gun is different. I run a 15# ISMI mainspring and 16# recoil in a les bear with a tungsten guide rod. Check your primers to see if the gun is timed correctly. With a light mainspring and recoil spring you may be getting it to unlock too early. You will see the primer having a strike skid mark. I originally ran my gun at 15 and 15 but had it unlocking a little too fast...put in a 16# and it went away. Just something to look for.