Pat Miles Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 I think I need some lube on my press Firehose and a garden rake will clean that right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 I vacuumed mine for the first time the other day.....then went fishing through the bag for the brass locator buttons that I sucked up. Well, that sucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JatCarver Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 I vacuumed mine for the first time the other day.....then went fishing through the bag for the brass locator buttons that I sucked up. I've done this at least a dozon times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Extractor Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Good informative thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc10mm Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 I've had a couple of PM with Brian Enos and he recommended slide glide as a lubricant for my 1050. He didn't say whether to use the regular or the heavy. Anyone have an idea which one is best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtchevy841 Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Great info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimk60 Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) I may be trying the slide glide, nit sure yet. Currently use Mobil 1 for the ram. Synthetic grease for the zirks. I spary silicone on the Station one locator, the underside of the shell plate, and both sides of the primer wheel.. After all is dry I assemble. Problem with the Mobile 1 is it collects dirt, as it is supposed to do, and flows to the bottom of the press. I will reach under the ram, and come back with all this black oil on the back of my hand. Edited January 16, 2016 by Jimk60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bkreutz Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) I started using this stuff years ago in racing applications. It works great on my Dillon too. http://www.idparts.com/wurth-sabesto-hhs-lubricant-p-799.html A little goes a long way, I use this stuff all around the shop and I've been using my present can for over 5 years. Edited January 16, 2016 by Bkreutz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmland Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 I just keep the main shaft well lubricated with motor oil. To be honest I use what ever I have at the time. The press never knew the difference. I tend to over oil but it runs smooth but drops oil like an old car. That is on me. I use any type of grease I have in the gun for those parts that needs it. I'm a little better and don't over do it. Cleaning well I could do a better job but as much as I reload I procrastinate. Don't know why but as long as it is lubed the press runs fine. Not saying you should do this but the 650 will run dirty. The two areas I do take time to clean after thousands of rounds are the shell plate and per feed. Still I feel you should do it more often but it has never been an issue. Though I sometimes worry that I let too much primer dust collect and that could become an issue if something goes wrong. One thing I have never done and it probably should be is clean the powder measures. Again they work great and never have problems with the weight they throw. For some reason my friends who are clean freaks and picky on the lube they use have far more problems than me. Mine is so dirty that is doesn't look blue so maybe it is time to give it that once over. But you know after 20 years I must be doing something right or just lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsteimel Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I actually do use a shot of Rem oil on the shaft. It's probably not recommended, but seems to smooth the pull slightly. I will say i'm very careful to NOT get it on anything important (primers, etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldP Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 As far as installing 2 grease fittings in the small holes that already exist I ask why? If anything wears out Dillon will replace it free, right? My thought is, if this were a problem with parts wearing out and Dillon having to replace parts due to wear they would have installed the fittings at the factory. 2 grease fitting have to be less expensive than the parts in the linkage being replaced. Seems like folks have been trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist. The only mods I have done is the bearing plate for the primer bar and I had the tool maker at work put a flat spot on the bolt holding the shell plate on so the set screw has a flat surface to contact so the bolt won't spin loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsteimel Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I actually do use a shot of Rem oil on the shaft. It's probably not recommended, but seems to smooth the pull slightly. I will say i'm very careful to NOT get it on anything important (primers, etc). I talked with Dillon AND watched the "clean and lube your 650 video" on their website... and i won't be using Rem oil again! Motor oil and grease are the ONLY lubricants to use on the Dillon presses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan550 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 REM oil is fine for shotguns, but it doesn't need to be anywhere NEAR a Dillon press! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianKr Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Does anyone know where I can get some SPX50 aerosol to lube my 550? I emailed American Industries, but never received a reply. Unless I missed something their website doesn't have a place to purchase products. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimini Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 None that I've seen. My 550 does not have grease zerks either. Purchased in December 06 from BrianEnos.com. There are pilot holes (6 total / 2 for each pivot pin) that I suppose you could put zerks but I don't know why they didn't get put on at the factory? I don't know how else you could grease the pivot pins otherwise? Okie I have an older 650 that I lube with a product from Dualco. you can google dualco and find multiple places to obtain one of their grease guns. It's a very small pressure luber with a needle point that will exactly fit what looks like a pilot hole on the pivot pins. I just jamb the nozzle into the pilot holes and pump it a few times until some of the older grease oozes out of the ends of the shaft pins. I think I paid 20 bucks about 10 years ago and highly recommend it rather than modification to the 650. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LabMan Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 On 12/19/2014 at 0:50 PM, JohnH1313 said: Sorry for the lame posts, gotta get my friggin count up so I can post a question with an imbedded link.... Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onepocket Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 New to the 1050. Any schematics with grease and oil points. Called Dillion and they said thats a great idea, but no. How often? Taking the bearings out and repacking? Did a google search not much there on this. Thanks in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Water63 Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 I have a 550 bought around 1985. It was ordered at the time when they were changing from the 450 to 550. Mine does not have grease zerks and did not come with a bearing plate for the primer system. The powder measure relied on 2 springs to reset it instead of the rod that the newer ones have. About 10 years ago my primer system had gotten to the point that I had to manually pull it every stroke like the 450 and push the powder measure back. The press had loaded probably close to 300,000 by that time. As far as lube went it got whatever oil was handy for the shaft and dry graphite for the primer system. After fighting with it I called Dillon and they upgraded everything for me at no cost. This press is still running and the links have never been greased just oiled It runs around 30,000 rounds a year. What more can you ask for.. Well a 650 with a case feeder would be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austings Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 This is perfect. Just got my first 650 and was wondering what type of maintenance I needed to do to keep it running smoothly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I've had a 550 and 650 for some time and LOVE all the good information listed in this post by everyone. Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Currently Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Don't forget the Dillon YouTube channel. They now have videos on tearing down the press and lubing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgtyre Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 7 hours ago, Currently said: Don't forget the Dillon YouTube channel. They now have videos on tearing down the press and lubing it. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZ-CNSNSptQUHuBtZkHRS_A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDIllon Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 I just got a 1050 and it was very dry when I received it. So after getting it all setup and running. I watched the youtube video of the guy that disassembles it and lubes it and puts it back together!! It was great. I confirmed with Dillon that the things and lubes in the video were the right things to use. Yesterday I tore it down cleaned all of the parts and lubed and greased it all up as per the video. What a difference!!! it really runs smooth now. And I now know how everything works, along with knowing how to get the thing apart and back together. By the way it only took about 1.5 hours. JD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V2plus25 Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 Yeah surprisingly the 1050 isn't that bad to take apart and reassemble. I've done it twice now. The most recent time I even got into the crank assembly, cleaned the old grease out and re-greased everything. She runs like a top now! I bet it would easily go 20000 rounds between cleanings but will continue to do it every 10k as per Dillon's recommendation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 13 hours ago, JDIllon said: I just got a 1050 and it was very dry when I received it. So after getting it all setup and running. I watched the youtube video of the guy that disassembles it and lubes it and puts it back together!! It was great. I confirmed with Dillon that the things and lubes in the video were the right things to use. Yesterday I tore it down cleaned all of the parts and lubed and greased it all up as per the video. What a difference!!! it really runs smooth now. And I now know how everything works, along with knowing how to get the thing apart and back together. By the way it only took about 1.5 hours. JD Can you post a link to the 1050 tear down and lube video? I checked Dillon's videos, but didn't seem much on the 1050... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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