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Dillon Lubrication


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OK I'm an idiot. But just exactly what is the purpose of greasing the underside of the Station 1 locator? Especially "heavily greasing" it?

My press (650XL) is fairly new, only loaded a few thousand rounds. But Dillon had that cavity absolutely packed! The station one locator doesn't move? What am I missing here?

I'd like to know the answer to this too please.

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  • 3 months later...
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  • 2 months later...

I thought the "10" in "10W-30" was the warm weather weight, and the "30" was cold?

Doesn't matter to me because 10W-30 works just fine. :D

I did discover today that a creak/squeak/rub can drive you nuts. Lube the shell plate, lube the main shaft-- nada.

"Hmm. What about this aluminum roller handle, which is actually giving me all of the physical feedback?" <_<

Slide Glide did the job quite nicely. And I have the satisfaction of knowing everything else has a fresh coat of lube!

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  • 1 month later...

Motor oil that is 10W-30 means 10 weight at start up (room temperature) and 30 weight at engine operating temp ( 200+ )

when the oil is run too long the viscosity modifiers break down (sludge out) and you are running straight 10 weight in your engine.

oil is oil it doesn't degrade, the additives break down and contaminants get in it.. you can filter it and reuse it if you had the proper gear that filtered that fine a particulate matter that's why they can "NextGen" it ;)

learned that from a class Valvoline taught to us parts guys....

I have an old 1lb. tub of dura-blend moly fortified grease I use on an ancient RL450

John

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  • 1 month later...

OK I'm an idiot. But just exactly what is the purpose of greasing the underside of the Station 1 locator? Especially "heavily greasing" it?

My press (650XL) is fairly new, only loaded a few thousand rounds. But Dillon had that cavity absolutely packed! The station one locator doesn't move? What am I missing here?

I too would like to know. Anyone have an explanation? I can't for the life of me see the reason but I may be missing the obvious. Wouldn't be the first time....

Doug.

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  • 1 month later...

OK I'm an idiot. But just exactly what is the purpose of greasing the underside of the Station 1 locator? Especially "heavily greasing" it?

My press (650XL) is fairly new, only loaded a few thousand rounds. But Dillon had that cavity absolutely packed! The station one locator doesn't move? What am I missing here?

I too would like to know. Anyone have an explanation? I can't for the life of me see the reason but I may be missing the obvious. Wouldn't be the first time....

Doug.

I got this off another thread http://www.brianenos...howtopic=147054

The station one locator should be greased on the underside, as this helps to dampen vibration.
Edited by ScottyPotty
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  • 4 weeks later...

So much confusion or so many ways of lubricating the pivot pins from zerk fittings to needle and chain saw lubricators which are all great. However I have found the use of aerosol white lithium grease, care must be used so as not to make a mess but with the straw hose tip you can insert it into the holes with a rag around it to catch extra grease. The grease uses a fast evaporating carrier that allows a couple of minuets for it to carry the grease like a super light oil during which you operate the press handle and distribute the grease. It will come to a consistency of a tub of white lithium grease in a few minuets then apply a bit more until you are done. Next to installing fittings next time you disassemble the press so as to not get fine metal chips and dust from drilling and taping on the assembled assembly, this works the best for me as I know the grease with the carrier gets to where it is needed.

Jim

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  • 3 months later...

First, this is a great place for info. I seem to learn something new everytime I read a topic.

Next, I have a Pre-B 550, have had it for 26 years and loaded many thousands of 45,44 and 9mm on it. It has no lube ports/holes, so I have used whatever flavor of gun oil on hand to lube the pivot points and the ram. I have to kind of squirt the oil into the pivots, and it really seems to have worked too. Pretty messy, but effective. After all these years, It still feels tight and smooth.

I can drill and tap the pivot points and add zerks. Think it would be worthwhile?

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one advantage to installing zerks is that it keeps any foreign matter out of the holes, not a big deal but it also helps to push the old grease out and replace it with fresh, you get more pressure from a grease gun than using a needle tip. I've "fixed" several presses for friends by forcing new grease in, the old stuff was very hard, even had to use a hydraulic press on one to get the shaft out of the toggle, you could not begin to pull the handle.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I have two Dillon 650's and use them quite heavily. Dillon did say to clean & lube the main shaft with 30w motor oil. I was told to put some light weight oil, like Rem oil, on all the arm's pivot points. One of mine has the grease fittings and one does not. I don't have a grease gun so I use the Rem oil and it works great.

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  • 6 months later...

I purchased my 650 used and have no idea how many rounds the previous owner put through her. I have run about 4,000 pistol through it. I noticed the action was getting a little stiff so I used some transmission fluid on the main shaft and some white lithium in a syringe on the linkage. I also lightly greased the underside of the shell plate and it's bolt. What a difference! On the down stroke the arm falls effortlessly now where before there was resistance. I will definitely keep her lubed from now on.

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  • 1 month later...

Like others who posted I have been using an aerosol with a plastic straw on my 550's forever. I found a product that I really like called SPX50 made by American Industries. It comes out of the straw as a thin penetrating oil so it will get around the shafts and force the old lube out but when it dries it forms a fairly thick Teflon grease. You have to hold your fingers tight to the press to form a seal around the plastic straw so that all the lube and pressure is forced around the shafts and let me warn you when the old lube is forced out the first time it is black and very messy. You can tell that the oil is getting in because when you do it right the black goo comes out all around the edges front and rear of the shafts. I just hold it down until all the black goop clears to fresh lube. You better have a pan or a pile of rags under your press the first time you do this. The SPX50 has no smell and is enriched with Teflon, after you flush out the old lube you will need to actuate the press a few times to get the coating inside even and then let it sit for about a half hour to let the grease set up. I use an alcohol soaked rag to clean up the mess left on the press along with a few paper towels. The next time you lube it the old Teflon grease comes out fairly clear and it only takes a short burst to relube the pins. I do my presses about every 5000 rounds and they run like butter all the time. A can of this lasts about 5 or 6 years and you can also use it on the large center shaft to keep it lubed and running smoothly. Once the Teflon grease sets up it will not migrate of the center shaft and mess up the surrounding areas. They also make a spray on dry Teflon lube that I use on the primer components and powder measure moving parts. Once the initial lube with this stuff is done and the mess cleaned up it takes about 5 minutes to do a re-lube with very little clean up afterwards and because the carrier oil is synthetic it does not evaporate or or get crusty like regular grease. I searched for a long time to find what I considered to be the best product to do this with and since using American Industry's products I have been totally satisfied with the results.

Edited by bowenbuilt
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  • 2 weeks later...

Some oil basics.

All synthetic oils will be sold as multi-viscosity oils. XXW-YY. This is because they are naturally multi-viscosity, as they do not change viscosity much with temperature changes.

The scales are based on conventional oils. They change a lot with temperature. So you find straight weight conventional oils. A multi-viscosity conventional oil is typically an oil of the W (winter) weight, with viscosity improvers that thicken the oil as it gets hotter. As mentioned, these "wear out" over time, so the oil gradually becomes a straight weight oil of the W rating. So a conventional 10W-30 starts as a 10 weight oil with viscosity improvers, and over time, becomes a 10 weigh oil again.

For our purposes (presses, not engines), the vicosity improvers do nothing for us, and they do not degrade.

For most synthetic oils, viscosity improvers are not required as they do not thicken as much when cold nor thin out as much when hot.

For for your press, 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-40, 15W-50, 10W-60, etc will all to a fine job of lubricating.

And they also seem to work well to lube your guns, especially the AR types.

BTW, if you have a REALLY old 650, it doesn't even have the little holes to use to grease it. :)

Edited by Pinecone
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  • 5 weeks later...
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  • 2 months later...

I bought a used 550B on eBay. I want to do a thorough lubricating job on the press, but I'm having a devil of a time correlating descriptions of what to lube, with the nomenclature of the various parts of the press. I have the Dillon owners manual with the complete parts list, and I have a list of recommended lube points from somewhere on this Forum, but can't seem to identify, for example, the 'primer retaining pin hole', nor the 'connector body collar'. The parts list references the connector body collar as part #21275, but I've pored over the parts diagrams and cannot find part #21275. Is there a diagram somewhere that identifies a proper lubrication system? Can anyone tell me what the darned connector body collar is, and which of the several holes on the primer system the primer retaining pin hole is?? Thanks in advance for any help.

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Brian, thanks for clarifying for me. I had figured the 'primer retaining pin hole' had to be the one that holds the little white nylon pin, but I was still unsure because I've always heard that you didn't need to lube nylon...it's supposed to be self lubricating. But whatever, you've cleared up my confusion, and those parts are now properly lubed. Thanks again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After reading the posts on this Forum (very helpful), I'm having trouble injecting grease into the 3 little holes on my 550B - one on the crank housing (part # 13409), and one on each of the index arms (Part #'s 13583 and 13747). I've tried a hypodermic-type injector, a chain saw lube injector, a micro hand pump...none can get grease into the holes. I'd love to install zerk fittings. Has anyone done it? Looks as if I'd need to disassemble the lower end of the press completely...pretty daunting. If someone has done it, I'd love to hear about it.

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After reading this thread I thought I would chime in.

I bought my Dillion RL 550B used off of craigs list and used it for about 3000 rounds

at which point it started feeling a little sticky so I took it apart as I could not fins any

good way to lube it while it was together and in doing so I found that part 13834 and 13881

had traded metal (galled) parts 13583 and 13747.

I took these parts to Dillon (as I live near Scottsdale AZ) and they replaced them FREE (on a used machine!)

EDIT

A quarter inch six inch long extention is the perfict size to nock out parts 13834 and 13881

EDIT

While talking with the Dillon tech he told me to use wheel berring grease on the hole machine and not to lube

any of the powder drop mecenisem at all just clean it well.

As far as the drilling and tapping of the lube holes goes I suppose you could but why not just go to the bike store

and get a pointed grease gun for bicycles, as slow as this machine cycles I do not think that the type of grease matters

that much as it will harden long before it losses it's lubrisity and that is the goal to lube rite?

link to the pdf where I got the part numbers from.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/dillon_rl_550b_manual_may_2007.pdf

My 00.02 = exactly two cents.

Edited by area1509
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  • 2 weeks later...

I use and recommend Mobil 1 5W30 on my pistols and have for a long time. If it's good enough for the pistols it's good enough for the presses. A 550 and a 650, put grease on the cam areas on the 650. My 550 is one of the first and has a lot of rounds loaded. Replaced the arms, bushing worn out machine would not stay in time along with new pins. Give the arm holes a drop of oil every third or forth loading session runs like new.

I bought the 650 used and didn't know about heavy grease on station one locator. Was going to load some 40's this afternoon and will give that a try. It's for vibration and should help the machine run smoother.

On 550 use powdered graphite on the primer slide bar and powder measure slide. It stays won't attract powder and extends loading time before cleaning. Pick a bottle up in the lock department at the hardware store or WalMart.

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