Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Calibration problem on RL1100 with autodrive.


Recommended Posts

Hello,

So, after installing a Mark7 autodrive on my RL1100 last week, I was able to process about 10k cases.  I had a shellplate index glitch that I got resolved, and then processed about 3k cases with no issues at all.

Then:

-Broke down and cleaned the press, and swapped the "processing" toolhead for the "loading" toolhead. 

-Also installed the primer slide assembly since that's now needed.

-After it was all setup, I powered up the autodrive, and tried to calibrate it, but all I get is a "clunk" noise.

 

I can fully cycle the press in Neutral mode using a 5/8" wrench like it says in the manual.  It cycles with little effort fully up and fully down.  But, whenever I try to calibrate it, all I get is a clunking noise like it's trying to cycle the press but can't.  I've tried the Torque setting as high as 5, but I'm reluctant to go any higher because I don't want to break anything.  Most all my brass was processed at Torque setting 3 and sometimes 4, but no higher.

If I can't get it figured out over the weekend I will call Mark 7 on Monday, but I'm hoping the Enos braintrusts can help me out.

 

Thanks,

-Cuz

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it should move to the top of travel (sometimes with a bit of a clunk) during calibration.   If it's clunking partway down, usually the problem is the primer slide is out of position and it's index pin can't get through the hole it needs to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks @shred

That doesn’t seem to be the problem. I removed the toolhead, so it’s just the piston moving up and down. With the auto drive turned off, I can operate it manually all the way up and down. 
 

when I power up the tablet and motor, there is an amber light on the back of the motor that glows solid orange. When I push calibrate, the motor tries to rotate the crank but fails, and then the light flashes 7 times. I assume it’s an error code of some sort. 
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know nothing about these systems but is there some sort of timing of the motor to the position of the press that should be done? Just a WAG. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apples to oranges perhaps but with an Ammobot you can see similar behavior if the various control and power cables are too close to each other.

 

Electromagnetic interference/crosstalk. It's known Ammobot behavior. Usually the cables get jostled too close together while working around the machine. Separating them by at least an inch or so fixes the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ddc said:

Apples to oranges perhaps but with an Ammobot you can see similar behavior if the various control and power cables are too close to each other.

 

Electromagnetic interference/crosstalk. It's known Ammobot behavior. Usually the cables get jostled too close together while working around the machine. Separating them by at least an inch or so fixes the problem.

 

Thanks @ddc

That was one of the things I verified early on in troubleshooting.  I've got them as far apart as they can go.  I guess the good news is that I only waited 23 months after buying it to set it up, rather than 25 months which would put it out of warranty...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Cuz said:

 

Thanks @ddc

That was one of the things I verified early on in troubleshooting.  I've got them as far apart as they can go.  I guess the good news is that I only waited 23 months after buying it to set it up, rather than 25 months which would put it out of warranty...

 

@Cuz

IIRC, @SSGJohnV John Vlieger said operating the Autodrive with the tool head removed was definitely not recommended!  At least on the M7 machines!

 

That solid amber light with the 7 flashes are an error code(s)!

 

Operate manual to reinstall the tool head per Dillon.  The get your Autodrive owner's manual and look at Page 68 to check the motor shaft collar connection.  If things are still inop, contact CS first thing tomorrow morning and they will help you fix it over the phone!

 

Excellent Customer Service Techs!

 

👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Cuz said:

Thanks @shred

That doesn’t seem to be the problem. I removed the toolhead, so it’s just the piston moving up and down. With the auto drive turned off, I can operate it manually all the way up and down. 
 

when I power up the tablet and motor, there is an amber light on the back of the motor that glows solid orange. When I push calibrate, the motor tries to rotate the crank but fails, and then the light flashes 7 times. I assume it’s an error code of some sort. 
 

@Cuz

Just found this post, from 2023, on the (F**eB*ok) Mark 7 Reloaders Group by John:

 

Quote
I made this quick video that goes over some of the things I've noticed here in the group.
1. Never operate with your tool head removed, but your shell plate installed. Your swage rod can damage your shell plate if the tool head isn't installed (same can happen to a Dillon 1050/1100)
2. Never operate with your primer disc removed. Internal damage can occur with the guide pin if the disc is not installed.
3. Any and all alignments or diagnostics should start with the machine fully assembled. Alignments in particular are reliant on other aspects to be truly aligned. If the machine isn't assembled you're going to get false impressions of what is wrong.
 

 

HTHs!

Edited by HOGRIDER
sp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...