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Dillon RL 550B: High Primer Seating


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My Dillon 550B started giving me an issue after I changed dies. Changing the dies doesnt have a relationship with the issue at hand.

 

All of a sudden, when I push the handle forward, the handle doesnt go as far as it normally doesn and the primer punch under the shell plate doesn't go up high enough. Without a case in station 1, I push on the handle like I am seating a primer and noted how high it goes: the punch goes high enough where it doesnt hit the primer feeding assembly and allows a very small amount of room for the primer to fall into the primer cup. If I increase the length of the primer punch, it will not load a primer from the primer feeding assembly. If I decrease the length of the primer punch, it will not active the primer feed stop pin that drops the primer. 

 

I tightened the roller bracket screws as per Gary's instructions here, however the handle primer punch under the shell plate isnt going up as high.

 

High%20Primer.jpg

 

Any insight would be appreciated.

 

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52 minutes ago, Orion1 said:

 

All of a sudden, when I push the handle forward, the handle doesnt go as far as it normally doesn and the primer punch under the shell plate doesn't go up high enough.

Did you check to see if there are any obstructions under the shell plate?
 

If handle stops before reaching full forward something is in the way. Look and clean everything, including ram.

 

Remember the shell plate is coming down and not the punch going up. 

Edited by HesedTech
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On 12/13/2022 at 4:17 PM, HesedTech said:

Did you check to see if there are any obstructions under the shell plate?
 

If handle stops before reaching full forward something is in the way. Look and clean everything, including ram.

 

Remember the shell plate is coming down and not the punch going up. 

 

I did and there are no obstructions of the main shaft. I added 30w oil to the shaft and it seems to be getting harder to move it up and down. I've also disassembled the main shaft from the press and freely move it up and down without issues. Thinking the issue is the threaded link arm pin needs to be greased. Thoughts?

Edited by Orion1
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3 hours ago, Orion1 said:

I've also disassembled the main shaft from the press and freely move it up and down without issues. Thinking

Then your issues must to be in the arms and pins. Without any dies or brass the ram should fully move up and down. It should the arm should smoothly over center at the top of the stroke and fully compress primer punch cup when bottomed and pushed forward. 
 

The 550C has grease fittings, but removing the pins is no big deal, so grease em up. 
 

If all else fails send it to Dillon and they will refurbish the press for a fee.  

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I would do the following

 

1. take down and clean the primer assembly--be sure to clean the debris off the rim of the cup--  check for obstructions, debris.. that might hinder your priming system

 

and  2. get a spent primer and  c=double check that the primer cup assembly is seating it as primers should be on your  machine(  put a spent primer on a hard surface, cover it with  t he primer  cup,loosen the retaining  screw below the  cup, press the primer  cup assemble onto a hard surface --all the  way down =correct seating  depth). tighten the retaining  screw  and retry you priming of cases

 

BTW-- what kind of primers  are those?  they look strange finish wise

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When you push forward on the handle to seat the primer, does the platform spring up when you remove your hand from the handle? If not, then the pivot pins are dry and require regreasing. Push down on the edge of the shellplate between stations 2 and 3. If it feels springy, then the shellplate bolt needs to be tighter.  Make sure that the number stamped on the shellplate for identification is on the top of the plate. It can be installed upside-down. Be sure the handle isn't contacting anything when you push forward on the handle.  

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22 hours ago, dillon said:

When you push forward on the handle to seat the primer, does the platform spring up when you remove your hand from the handle? If not, then the pivot pins are dry and require regreasing. Push down on the edge of the shellplate between stations 2 and 3. If it feels springy, then the shellplate bolt needs to be tighter.  Make sure that the number stamped on the shellplate for identification is on the top of the plate. It can be installed upside-down. Be sure the handle isn't contacting anything when you push forward on the handle.  

 

That's correct, the threaded link arm pin needs grease. However, the pin will not come out. I just posted pictures above this message. What machine will remove these threaded link arm pins out, I've put all I got into it with a punch and hammer and it won't move more than what is pictured. Any help would be appreciated. I just got in 4,500 45 ACP bullets and was looking forward to reloading during my two weeks off!

Edited by Orion1
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2 hours ago, Orion1 said:

 

That's correct, the threaded link arm pin needs grease. However, the pin will not come out. I just posted pictures above this message. What machine will remove these threaded link arm pins out, I've put all I got into it with a punch and hammer and it won't move more than what is pictured. Any help would be appreciated. I just got in 4,500 45 ACP bullets and was looking forward to reloading during my two weeks off!

There two small holes in front of the top of the link arms. You can see these holes on the schematic that was posted.

This is where you have to put some grease i from time to time. I use an old syringe with a large diameter needle. Works great.

I do not think you are supposed to take the pin out for applying lubrication.

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11 minutes ago, RudyVey said:

There two small holes in front of the top of the link arms. You can see these holes on the schematic that was posted.

This is where you have to put some grease i from time to time. I use an old syringe with a large diameter needle. Works great.

I do not think you are supposed to take the pin out for applying lubrication.

 

62286 are the pins I am trying to remove. Dillon has a video on disassembly where these pins are removed. I would just use the syringe as you describe, but I think 20 years of debris/grease has been sitting on these pins and Id like to wipe 62286 clean.

 

s000244-61.jpg?optimize=high&bg-color=25

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I soaked the pin in WD40 over night, sprayed more into this morning. After hitting a punch with a hammer through the solid left pin, I've been able to move that pin about 1/4". Any suggestions?

 

404-C87-B0-B9-FF-417-C-9859-C8623602130-

Edited by Orion1
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The B model pins are pressed in, so if you have access to a hydraulic press they should come out easily. If not gently warm the outer frame with a heat gun, but be careful not to burn or melt the finish. I’ve worked with machines with similar construction over the years and a hydraulic press is often the best tool. Just be careful not to crack the frame. I believe it is cast and then machined which means it may break before it bends . If you have a hyd. press make sure the frame is properly supported before applying pressure.  

It looks like you are close to clearing the knurled end. 

 

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The knurling is what prevents the pins from walking out. You undoubtedly have some galling from the link arms deposited onto the pivot pins. Squirt some penetrating oil through the lube hole in the upper part of the link arm, and continue the beating (on the pin) until morale improves.  The hard part is done.

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