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Glock 17 long compensated - power factor and spring weight combos?


DevWolf
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Hey yall. I have a Glock 17L here. Its got a Killer Innovations "Velocity" compensator on it. We are having an issue where its not ejecting. Its stove piping but rather than hanging out of the slide, its wedged forward, oriented in line with the barrel it just came out of, to the right of the chamber. It seems the slide may not be cycling all the way back and getting a good kick to the shell to flip it out. We have tried stock spring, 13lb, and 11lb (striker pin is 4.5lb, yes it closes fully at 11lb recoil spring), and used 115 to 147 grain FMJ and JHP. Still having issues. We are debating on rather we need to just go up to 115+p or maybe even 124 nato. Oh and yes without the comp, it cycles fine. Even with a Holosun on it. Im worried though that nato or 115+p 9mm may be too much PF for an 11lb spring. Not sure about the 13lb, I think that may be fine. This is gen 3 with the gen 5 ejector in it, so I dont think the late gen 3 issues are at work here. s#!tty powdered metal extractor, but she pulls it out of the chamber without fail. She just doesnt kick the shells out of the way with the comp on. 

 

Has anyone done a compped 17L or maybe a G34 with a red dot and had issues running non +P, needing extra power to cycle it? And what spring weight did you use? Thoughts on the setup? Do you think theres another issue here and it should run fine on regular 147 JHP on an 11lb spring with an agressive comp? 

 

Any input or experience appreciated. We've been battling this damn thing for weeks now. 

 

Trying to attach a pic but apparently max size is 500kb so thats not gonna happen. Ill try and find other methods.

Edited by DevWolf
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Just a baseline  but 34 length barrel 2 port comp 130 PF   10 pound  wolff recoil spring 4 pound FP spring and the gun needs to be very smooth so she goes into battery the entire way, a 11 pound wolff MAY or MAY not work 100%     for my glock major 34 (168+pf) I run a 13 lb recoil spring  your results may vary

Edited by Sinister4
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15 hours ago, Sinister4 said:

Just a baseline  but 34 length barrel 2 port comp 130 PF   10 pound  wolff recoil spring 4 pound FP spring and the gun needs to be very smooth so she goes into battery the entire way, a 11 pound wolff MAY or MAY not work 100%     for my glock major 34 (168+pf) I run a 13 lb recoil spring  your results may vary

Ok so if 130pf works on a 10lb spring on a 34, and im on a 11lb flat wire 17L, both have 4lb FP springs, then I feel a little safer about running my 142 PF +P and nato stuff. What im worried about here is the slide coming back too early on a light spring, and blowing a hole in the side of the casing before the bullet leaves the muzzle. I had an AR9 do that on an 8 inch barrel trying to use +P on standard 9mm buffer parts. Different gun but still a direct blowback system. 

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44 minutes ago, DevWolf said:

Ok so if 130pf works on a 10lb spring on a 34, and im on a 11lb flat wire 17L, both have 4lb FP springs, then I feel a little safer about running my 142 PF +P and nato stuff. What im worried about here is the slide coming back too early on a light spring, and blowing a hole in the side of the casing before the bullet leaves the muzzle. I had an AR9 do that on an 8 inch barrel trying to use +P on standard 9mm buffer parts. Different gun but still a direct blowback system. 

 Well what you want is about 3-4 feet ejection distance, no more than 6.  And of course do the muzzle up slide goes in battery no problem and zero slide movement on trigger pull.  Some glocks will not accept the light recoil springs and lock up full.   BTW ive had no luck with the light flat wire springs going into battery,so I just use wolff  Oh I should state I use nothing but KKM barrels in my guns

 

 

 

Edited by Sinister4
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17 hours ago, Sinister4 said:

 Well what you want is about 3-4 feet ejection distance, no more than 6.  And of course do the muzzle up slide goes in battery no problem and zero slide movement on trigger pull.  Some glocks will not accept the light recoil springs and lock up full.   BTW ive had no luck with the light flat wire springs going into battery,so I just use wolff  Oh I should state I use nothing but KKM barrels in my guns

 

 

 

Music wire springs don't work well on my frame. They way they coil up around the recoil guide, it catches the leading edge of my front rail as it comes back and gets very stiff about half way back. The flat wire ones queek a little bit even with full polish on the whole assembly with lots of oil, but they hug that recoil guide, so it clears the rail. Its partly how I designed the cads for the frame (it's printed in CF PA12 nylon). May not be an issue with a factory P80 style frame. But I dont have one of those to refrence. It does close all the way with muzzle up. I had to do the 4 lb striker spring for that to work though. Ejection is a whole different issue at the moment. I just swapped in a gen 5 ejector to stop the random ejection and shells to the face. But I cant really get a good bead on if thats helping or not till it cycles on its own. Hand racking it, it seems to be working. I'll try some Nato tomorrow and see what happens.

Edited by DevWolf
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