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Dry firing a Tanfoglio


DenC

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Hello everyone. Just wanted to know what is the best thing to do when dry firing a Tanfoglio pistol. I have a Stock 1. Looking at a Stock 3 also.

Is using a snap cap enough to prevent damage? Or is it a better to use an o-ring at the firing pin retainer plate area (as recommended for cz75B models, though this is mostly recommended due to the fps design in the cz B series)

Or should I use both snap caps and o-ring?
 

Also for snap caps, do these wear out (I see springs on some of them)? And is there a good brand you can recommend?

Thanks in advance.

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2 hours ago, DenC said:

Hello everyone. Just wanted to know what is the best thing to do when dry firing a Tanfoglio pistol. I have a Stock 1. Looking at a Stock 3 also.

Is using a snap cap enough to prevent damage? Or is it a better to use an o-ring at the firing pin retainer plate area (as recommended for cz75B models, though this is mostly recommended due to the fps design in the cz B series)

Or should I use both snap caps and o-ring?
 

Also for snap caps, do these wear out (I see springs on some of them)? And is there a good brand you can recommend?

Thanks in advance.

 

O-Rings should be sufficient. 

 

Snap caps aren't a bad idea and should help stop the forward travel of the firing pin since it's not stopped by a firing pin stop pin like on the CZ75Bs, but I don't do a Double-Action Pull each time, after I do the Double Action pull, I pin the trigger back to do the successive shots.

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18 hours ago, Slalom45 said:

Not trying to be a smart Alex, but I've used nothing for years and had zero issues. I also dry fire A LOT. (Makes me unsure why I'm not better at the actual game)

Same here, I have 2 Stock 2s, one with regular/consistent dry fire for more than 4 years and over 120,00 live rounds. I put a Patriot Defense extended 

firing pin in it originally and never replaced it. Were and when would the expected wear or damage be visible?

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20 minutes ago, bravobravo said:

Same here, I have 2 Stock 2s, one with regular/consistent dry fire for more than 4 years and over 120,00 live rounds. I put a Patriot Defense extended 

firing pin in it originally and never replaced it. Were and when would the expected wear or damage be visible?

Any negatives with installing the xl firing pin? Such as AD’s?  
thanks 

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18 hours ago, bravobravo said:

Same here, I have 2 Stock 2s, one with regular/consistent dry fire for more than 4 years and over 120,00 live rounds. I put a Patriot Defense extended 

firing pin in it originally and never replaced it. Were and when would the expected wear or damage be visible?

^^^

This

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Apparently mobile ate my post.  I don't own a CZ, but I stayed in a Holiday Inn before.

 

To my understanding, on the firing pin block CZs, the roll pin's interaction with the corresponding notch in the firing pin defines the maximum rearward and forward travel of the firing pin, as well as retains the firing pin.  When you live fire a FPB CZ, the firing pin hitting the primer prevents the firing pin from running into the roll pin, and less momentum/energy will be transferred to the roll pin from the firing pin returning to the rearward position.  In dryfire, the firing pin will hit the roll pin at the forward end of its travel.  The hammer will prevent the firing pin from hitting the roll pin as it returns rearward.  A snap cap or an O ring will buffer or limit the amount of force transferred, respectively, which should limit or prevent damage to the roll pin.

 

On Tanfoglios, maximum forward travel is defined by the firing pin spring's coils touching (or the firing pin wedging itself into the firing pin spring hole, though hopefully that doesn't happen).  Maximum rearward travel and retention is defined by the firing pin hitting the firing pin stop.  Non-FPB CZs are similar (as are 1911/2011s).  There is no roll pin to be chewed up during dryfire.

 

So using an O-ring or snap cap isn't strictly necessary, since there isn't the same component to damage on a Tanfoglio.  It won't hurt anything, but there's no damage to prevent either.

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On 10/19/2022 at 5:40 PM, attakmint said:

Apparently mobile ate my post.  I don't own a CZ, but I stayed in a Holiday Inn before.

 

To my understanding, on the firing pin block CZs, the roll pin's interaction with the corresponding notch in the firing pin defines the maximum rearward and forward travel of the firing pin, as well as retains the firing pin.  When you live fire a FPB CZ, the firing pin hitting the primer prevents the firing pin from running into the roll pin, and less momentum/energy will be transferred to the roll pin from the firing pin returning to the rearward position.  In dryfire, the firing pin will hit the roll pin at the forward end of its travel.  The hammer will prevent the firing pin from hitting the roll pin as it returns rearward.  A snap cap or an O ring will buffer or limit the amount of force transferred, respectively, which should limit or prevent damage to the roll pin.

 

On Tanfoglios, maximum forward travel is defined by the firing pin spring's coils touching (or the firing pin wedging itself into the firing pin spring hole, though hopefully that doesn't happen).  Maximum rearward travel and retention is defined by the firing pin hitting the firing pin stop.  Non-FPB CZs are similar (as are 1911/2011s).  There is no roll pin to be chewed up during dryfire.

 

So using an O-ring or snap cap isn't strictly necessary, since there isn't the same component to damage on a Tanfoglio.  It won't hurt anything, but there's no damage to prevent either.

 

  What he said

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