10/22- stovepipe problems-help

[Scrounger]

Hello,

 

I’m not sure if I should post this in steel challenge, but it seems the only sport where we see a lot of 22 shooters. 

I have a Briley Raptor Barrel and am having challenges shooting CCI 40gr std velocity. I’m running the Kidd 10% reduced power spring and their firing pin and extractor in a stock receiver and bolt.  I run the gun lightly oiled.  
 

Once I’ve run a few mags I get consistent stovepipes. I’ll run a bore snake through the chamber and often get a few more mags and then it persists.  
 

I have no problems with higher velocity (thunderbolts, CCI mini mags).  Wondering if I need to have the raptor chamber opened up, but thought I’d tape this braintrust 1st. 

Edited August 30, 2022 by Scrounger

[zzt]

The Raptor barrel already has an opened up chamber.  That's why they can guarantee it will feed anything.  CCI SV is .010" longer than normal 22s and is heavily wax coated.  I know several who jumble the rounds around in a towel to remove the excess wax.  Another thing to try is the old bullseye trick.  Put a line of oil on the top round in each mag.  That keeps the chamber lubed.  One shooting buddy sprays them with One Shot.  I say eeew, but he swears by it.

 

You should also check the chamber for lead buildup.  If you have a 22LR reamer, drop it in and twirl by hand.  If not, get a longer 22 case and cut slots in the mouth.  Then insert and twirl.  You may be surprised and the amount of lead that builds up in the corners.

[Scrounger]

Thank you, I really appreciate it!  I didn’t realize the chamber was already opened up. I shoot the heck out of it, so lead build up makes sense.
 

I clean it after every trip, but lead is sneaky. I sometimes put a brush on a drill and slowly try to clean the bore, but that probably isn’t doing the trick. Any good advice for removing lead buildup in the chamber?  Would you just hand spin the reamer to start and finish with a brush/patches?

 

 

Edited August 30, 2022 by Scrounger

[zzt]

If you have a 22L reamer, hand spin it.  It may or may not work.  There are 21 different 22LR reamer specs.  Chances are yours will be a little smaller than the Raptor chamber.  Give it a try.  Soak the chamber in Kroil oil first and let is sit for 30 minutes.  That should loosen the lead and make it easier to remove.

 

I rarely use a bronze brush.  Mostly just patches.  I use Weapon Shield Solvent and CLP.  I have no buildup and no leading problems in any of my barrels.  One of the bullseye shooters was complaining about how long it took to remove the lead in the barrel of his 1911 45.  I told him about Weapon Shield.  He said he went from 30+ minutes scrubbing to none after using it.  Give it a try.

[Scrounger]

Thanks again. I’ll order up a sport reamer and try the weapons shield.  

[zzt]

2 minutes ago, Scrounger said:

Thanks again. I’ll order up a sport reamer and try the weapons shield.  

 

Call Briley and ask what reamer profile they use, then buy that one.  If that doesn't work, try a lighter bolt.  My bolt is a tad on the heavy side.  Even using the Kidd -10% recoil spring and their super polished guide rod, I had stovepipe issues with some SV ammo when I was using a 5.5" barrel.  Not all SV ammo actually goes as fast as listed.  So I sold all by paper box CCI SV to bullseye shooters and went with AR Tactical or 40gr MiniMags.  They always go bang.  I haven't tried CCI SV in the Raptor.  It causes some problems in my bullseye gun, so I've switched to Eley Target.  No issues.

 

BTW, all the ammo that would not feed in my Benz chamber barrel feeds perfectly in the Raptor.

[Scrounger]

Thanks, I’ll give Briley a call. I heard the 5.5” might not generate enough gas to run the SV, but the full length raptor should. My stock barrel and my Volqaurtsen ran them fine. I think chamber leading might be the culprit, as you said.
 

I’ll also pick up a Volqaurtsen extractor to try against the Kidd, just in case 

[zzt]

18 hours ago, Scrounger said:

I’ll also pick up a Volqaurtsen extractor to try against the Kidd, just in case

 

There is virtually no difference between the Kidd, Tandemkross and Volquartsen extractors.  I have all of them.   If I had to pick one, I'd say the TK is very, very slightly better than the other two.