OnVacation Posted August 29, 2022 Share Posted August 29, 2022 Seems as though welding up barrel feet (and hoods) has become less common as aftermarket barrel quality has increased over the last two decades or so and prices have come down. Still, seems like welding up feet is a quick easy way to improve lockup for someone with the requisite talent with a torch, and saves money for those of us tinkering in our spare time. I know the laser welding is the new hotness but requires sending my barrel off, and is just outsourcing the work I'd rather learn to do myself. I've got a few older 1911s I'd like to tighten up without investing in new barrels. I've replaced the bushings but still have a fair amount of play at the hood (vertical) that I think could be alleviated by recutting the feet. I'm decent with a mig torch and thinking of getting an old cheap barrel to practice on (i dont have a tig torch... yet...). Any good resources or tips to ease the learning curve for this job? I've heard of people soldering on shim stock as well, is this a better route? If so what kind of jig setup are people using to get a good joint? I've tried researching here and several places but can't find much more information than just to try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBertolet Posted August 29, 2022 Share Posted August 29, 2022 Another possibility, if the vertical play is not too much, is getting one of the EGW .203 slide stops. That will lift your barrel up a little. I had a 1911 that the slidestop hole in the frame was a little worn. I replaced it with the EGW .203 slidestop, and had to remove some metal from the lug to get into battery. All depends on how much you need to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIIID Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 There isn't enough control using a mig, tig is the way to go. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnVacation Posted August 30, 2022 Author Share Posted August 30, 2022 3 hours ago, GBertolet said: Another possibility, if the vertical play is not too much, is getting one of the EGW .203 slide stops. That will lift your barrel up a little. I had a 1911 that the slidestop hole in the frame was a little worn. I replaced it with the EGW .203 slidestop, and had to remove some metal from the lug to get into battery. All depends on how much you need to go. I thought about this, but it's an early 70s vintage commander and the pin to frame fit is still super tight. I don't want to have to ream the frame if I don't need to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnVacation Posted August 30, 2022 Author Share Posted August 30, 2022 4 minutes ago, RIIID said: There isn't enough control using a mig, tig is the way to go. Rich Was afraid of that. Wonder if I can talk the wife into letting me buy a tig... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 Not hijacking to a "How to Weld" thread, but it IS topical: If shopping around, you can get into TIG for about $1250 total (if you already possess some basics because of your MIG setup). I started out with an Eastwood. Quickly regretted it because it was DC only. Next was an AHP for about $850. Still using it and pleased. My next one will be an Everlast, based on friends' recommendations. Your only real additional cost will be a 120 cu. ft. Argon tank. (Argon/CO2 mix, like you're probably MIG'ing with, won't work with TIG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinister4 Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 no way id mig it, tig for sure and practice a bunch before the real deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yigal Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 add some material to lower lug of my new gun using laser welding prosses .heat was under 100* c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwhittin Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 If I take a barrel to a welder that is not familiar with welding barrel lugs, but is an experienced welder, what guidance should I give him? How do you prevent the link pin holes from warping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 2 hours ago, jwhittin said: If I take a barrel to a welder that is not familiar with welding barrel lugs, but is an experienced welder, what guidance should I give him? How do you prevent the link pin holes from warping? He shouldn't have to add more than 0.050" of material (and that's only to give material to grind down and smoothly radius everything out). The true number on the worst-fit barrel ever would probably be closer to 0.020".... There's absolutely no reason to weld on a huge blob like welders are prone to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim vaughan Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 Do the experts in tig welding advise using a copper spacer to fill the link slot thus stopping any overflow and/or collapse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 Measure the slide lock hole in the frame first. If its bigger than 0.203" then the frame is "Done" and not worth trying to tighten up the barrel fit anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnVacation Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 On 8/31/2022 at 6:36 AM, jim vaughan said: Do the experts in tig welding advise using a copper spacer to fill the link slot thus stopping any overflow and/or collapse? Found this picture of a setup for welding in my search Looks like they used a bolt with some copper lugs. I'd be more inclined to use an old barrel link, but hoping someone experienced can chime in on whether it's worth the work over using a close fit bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Never done one but I wonder if the reason for the bolt is that it can be easy to install and remove and loose fitting enough to not stretch the hole when everything heats up and cools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraizer15 Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 On 8/29/2022 at 7:43 PM, RIIID said: There isn't enough control using a mig, tig is the way to go. Rich I agree, a skilled tig welder can do some amazing things. Check out YouTube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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